AC Compressor failure

[RVTRKN]

I would triple check that there isn't an oil leak dropping oil on the compressor clutch. Otherwise the oil is from the shaft seal on the compressor. They do leak a little by design, but should not be a massive leak oiling the clutch up.

It's possible to replace the compressor shaft seal. Not worth the trouble and risk of another failure say if the front bearing caused the seal failure. Add cost of the ruined clutch and not much more for a new compressor.

IMO if the system is free of debris: Replace compressor with a genuine Sanden, Replace the orface tube (or orface tube line) and accumulator, and flush system. Also due to possible heat from the slipping clutch replace the overheated/burned belt just to be sure.

Probably already know this but the AC system running hot, overheating, from a bad fan clutch or debris plugged stack is the #1 cause of compressor failure. If the fan clutch is covered in it's own blood it's done...

She runs cool and was just warming it up when it went. Last time I shut it down though, I travelled 250 miles returning from May Madness

 

[Motorhead]

We need to know which truck in your signature the failure has occurred. If it is the '07 then the AC compressor is not a Sanden. I would STRONGLY suggest buying the orifice tube and receiver drier from the dealer. Most ALL after market parts that places like Rockauto are selling are crappy Chinese parts. The compressor for the '07, at least the one on my '07, 5.9 was made in South Korea.

 

[RVTRKN]

Thanks for the heads up, and yes it's my 07. I'll look on line for OEM.

 

[Motorhead]

Here is the picture of the REPLACEMENT Halla HS18 compressor I bought for my '07. It is the SAME as O.E. This is the picture of my spare one and here is the guy I bought them from. Nice to deal with. Chris
http://www.discountautoac-compressorparts.com/Dodge-AC-Compressor-DF2059-P2413.aspx

 

[RVTRKN]

Thanks again, TDR sure pays for itself.

 

[RVTRKN]

Ok, I got it all apart and the compressor was clean and not locked up, and the oil was clean. It is a tube type condenser and even though it's a cross tube condenser, it's still a tube. So I'm flushing it, even though it was clean. I looked at the screen just before the orifice, and it had very little debri, probably from the first running of the compressor, and it covered only @ 2% of the screen. So I'm replacing compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube, I have it all now, just now I need to find the time.

Bob4X4, how much oil does it take, I know it's 14oz of 134a, but I need to know how much oil?

 

[Bob4x4]

The book will tell you to measure the oil you pour out of the old compressor and fill the new compressor with that amount of VC-46 PAG oil but since you experiencd an oil leak it is recommended to add an additional oz of oil.

[TABLE="width: 100%, align: center"]

Total A/C System Fill
180 gas engines, 210 diesel engines
6 gas engines, 7 diesel engines


A/C Accumulator
60
2


A/C Condenser
30
1


A/C Evaporator
60
2


A/C Compressor
Drain and measure the oil from the old compressor. See Compressor Oil Drain

[/TABLE]

 

[RVTRKN]

There will be no oil in the system, I'm flushing all components that aren't to be replaced. I need to know the specific amount when dry.

 

[Bob4x4]

It's in the chart I posted

 

[RVTRKN]

Is that 210 oz's of oil, that would be over a gallon of oil.

 

[Bob4x4]

the numbers in the right column are oz's

 

[Motorhead]

What I found was that the oil capacity of the system is 6.25 oz. I don't believe it all goes into the compressor. Turn the compressor shaft by hand to make sure it isn't hydro locked after adding the specified oil.

 

[Bob4x4]

The FSM shows 6 oz for gas and 7 oz for diesel

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks Bob. Does the manual show how much to put into each component? I can't remember how much in each I did but I divided it up putting most of it in the compressor, some in the receiver drier/accumulator and a small amount into the condenser.

 

[Bob4x4]

I posted a chart earlier in ths thread that breaks it down

 

[Motorhead]

So with 7 oz for the diesel, using the chart then 2 oz goes back into the compressor. When I drained my new compressor, I let it drain then turned the compressor SHAFT not the pulley, a few turns and let it drain some more. After filling the compressor back with the prescribed amount, I turned the shaft a few revolutions to circulate the oil back through the compressor.

 

[RVTRKN]

Basing it on 6oz per literature on line, and part stores, I put 3oz in the compressor, 1.5oz in the accumulator, 1oz in the condenser. I'm pressure testing now, when I pull a vacuum, I'll suck in 1.5 oz through the liquid line. My service connectors are old and not sealing tight enough to pull a full vacuum. I have to buy another set.

 

[RVTRKN]

OK, got it all done, works great now. 7oz pag46 oil, 1lb-14oz's R134a. (Per data under hood) I tripled evacuated system before charging.

I was stressing out over the refrigerant, I didn't want to buy the crap they sell in auto parts stores. So I found out that Sams Club sell 30lb bottles for only $68.00, but I had to buy a membership. I missed my 24hr window for a trial membership. But the prices they get in the auto parts stores are ridiculous for only 16oz bottle's. Now I have a good supply of 134a. A buddy of mine always charges his truck before every summer, I guess he's lucky now.

 

[Motorhead]

If you look at the Sams Club, 30 pound cylinder, I'd bet the contents are made in CHINA. Glad you got it working well. Just FYI.... Keep an eye on the connections at the accumulator/ receiver drier. If you notice oil residue build up around any of the connections then you have to replace the O rings. I had an issue on mine about a year after my AC rebuild. I replaced the O rings and no more oil residue.

 

[MMeier]

If you look at the Sams Club, 30 pound cylinder, I'd bet the contents are made in CHINA. Glad you got it working well. Just FYI.... Keep an eye on the connections at the accumulator/ receiver drier. If you notice oil residue build up around any of the connections then you have to replace the O rings. I had an issue on mine about a year after my AC rebuild. I replaced the O rings and no more oil residue.

Might as well do your schrader valves at that point as well.