AC Compressor failure

[RVTRKN]

Yes, the 134a is manufactured in China as well as the all the other components I replaced. I just hope I don't have to go through it again. As far as the O-rings, they've all been replaced and the system was pressured tested at 100 psi for three days with dry nitrogen. The PAG oil has the ultra violet dye in it so it'll be easy to see if I need to check.

 

[Motorhead]

Good idea on the Nitrogen check! I bought a set of Schrader valve tools and find that alot of the valves on systems I work on aren't tight and seep a bit. A good sealing dust cap is essential too.

 

[RVTRKN]

I didn't think it was a good idea to use compressed air to flush the lines, evaporator and condenser. Nitrogen pressure worked great on my flush canister, I fabricated a 1/4" male flare fitting and kept the pressure at 100psi in the canister while flushing with the solvent. I'm an AC contractor, so I have all tools and equipment to do the complete job. Never introduce moisture of any kind into a system, even when it's empty, and compressed air has a lot of moisture.

 

[RVTRKN]

I am assuming that the failure is on the '07, 6.7. I have an '07, 5.9 and my AC compressor froze up on mine too and it was not caused from a lack of refrigerant/oil. My understanding with at least the 2007 trucks is that the compressor is at the lowest point in the system and when sitting for a day or so can become hydro locked with liquid refrigerant.

Motorhead, I should have known what that noise was, but it did it since brand new. I shouldn't have ignored it, I'm an HVAC contractor and know why you need a crankcase heater on a compressor. So the new compressor did the same after being shut down for a week, so I rigged up a 10watt 12vdc heater at the bottom, and it worked great after just being on for only 12 hours. I'm going to install a temperature operated T-stat to minimize the battery usage.

 

[Motorhead]

Motorhead, I should have known what that noise was, but it did it since brand new. I shouldn't have ignored it, I'm an HVAC contractor and know why you need a crankcase heater on a compressor. So the new compressor did the same after being shut down for a week, so I rigged up a 10watt 12vdc heater at the bottom, and it worked great after just being on for only 12 hours. I'm going to install a temperature operated T-stat to minimize the battery usage.

I don't have that problem anymore since I switched to DuraCool hydrocarbon refrigerant. I was wondering about having an aluminum, cylindrical accumulator welded into the low or high side line just before the compressor. Wouldn't this reservoir let the liquid refrigerant drain into the cylinder instead of the compressor then evaporate as the system starts and runs? I believe I have seen this on other cars.

 

[RVTRKN]

It's over complicating the fix, when an inexpensive crankcase heater will do the same thing. Refrigerant of any type, moves away from heat when static. I believe I have spent a total of $20.00. I didn't want to try snake oil (no offense Motorhead) and is why I bought industrial 134a, if there is such a thing, staying away from all the snake oil that part stores try to sell you. A crankcase heater is the standard for keeping liquid refrigerant out of the compressor and oil. It's not just hydro lock you have to worry about, the oil saturated with refrigerant will instantly boil off with the refrigerant when it boils off, leaving the compressor and has to return back through the complete system. By that time, it starts to wear the compressor and will signficantly reduce the life of the compressor.

 

[Motorhead]

No offense taken. What is considered "Industrial R134a"? I have a 30 pounder of R134a and I have some cans of R134A that were still produced in the US. I have used DuraCool for many years, especially in older R12 systems. I don't talk about it much here. It has been in my truck for about 4 years and cools better than the R134a did.

 

[RVTRKN]

I'd like to talk more about DuraCool you used, and I'll do some research as well. 134a in its chemical compound should be the same regardless who makes it or where it's made, as long as they make it to the proper mixture of the different refrigerants it's made of. 134a being a Zeotropic refrigerant, is why you charge as a liquid to get the proper mixture. If you charge with vapor, it'll boil off the refrigerant with the highest boiling point first and thus ruin the remaining refrigerant in the bottle.

I wanted to avoid the crap they try to sell you in a parts store.

 

[RRekus]

I just had my COMPLETE system overhauled. Mine did a similar thing, except broke the serpentine belt also. My mechanic.... REAL honest guy, told me when the compressor grenades, it sends metal particles in to the condenser! (this will/may block condenser passages)The company he gets his parts from, then would not warrant the condenser and compressor! (this will take out the compressor AGAIN!!). It is expensive, but make sure that when he or you replace the compressor that you ALSO replace the condenser. The symptoms that I had where a squeal occasionally, slow to start truck, like the batteries were dying. Good luck Rick

 

[RVTRKN]

It also depends on the type of condenser, mine I flushed out.

watch video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0O1mcnwjZs