Here I am

AC go BOOM!

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Should I update Aisan firmware?

Error Codes P2228 and P2229

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Sadly, I had the unfortunate experience the other day of having my A/C start blowing warm air. After 130k miles, I guess I deserved it. Maybe. In AZ and in the summertime, this is especially painful to consider that my truck is my daily driver. I tried to figure out the sequence of events and so here is what might have happened before things got ugly.
I noticed a slight rumble in the normal operation of the truck. Not like the loud clatter of a failing A/C clutch but a low rumble different than that of the normal operation of a Cummins. I then noticed my radiator fan clutch coming on at odd times and the temps rising a bit as I would slow down in traffic. I thought to check it to see if the fan clutch was shot but when I felt it, there is proper resistance. A/C still working at this point. Then a few days later coming off the freeway to a stop, I noticed a my trans temp was climbing slightly and the engine temps were going up to the 202 to 205 range which is abnormally high for my truck. Then the rumble got loud, I smelled the unique smell of R134a and the A/C started blowing warm air.
Finally, we have discovered that the A/C compressor came apart at the seams after testing found no refrigerant in the system. Major bummer!
Does it sound plausible that the fan clutch failed to kick on at the right time while the A/C was on thus shooting high side pressures through the roof and subsequently exploding my A/C compressor? I am replacing the compressor, condenser, dryer (on the condenser), radiator fan clutch and new belt for good measure. Everything will be flushed prior to new and I bought and extra bottle of PAG46 with the dye. What am I forgetting to get or to do?
 
Fan clutch gets weak a couple percent every year, if it is really bad you'll get a CEL.
The clutch is monitored by the ECM to work within the parameters given.
If you replace it - OEM part only - no aftermarket here.
By the way, 202-205 is perfectly fine, not even thermostat is fully open at that coolant temp.
 
It did not throw a code and it did have resistance when I spun it with the engine off. You are saying that a quality aftermarket fan clutch will not work correctly?
 
No good results with aftermarket clutches.

Like said, this clutch is entirely controlled by the ECM, the ECM tells it how many RPM he wants to see and the clutch delivers a return value with the actual rpm. It can do any rpms* within the given max engine rpm. All on demand. This is not an on/off clutch like in the old days.

The fan clutch won't be the reason why your AC compressor split in halve.
This was very likely an internal mechanical failure of it.

*most of the time it isn't commanded fully one, more like 30-50% that is enough for the given heat that needs to go.
 
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