Adding Air Lift Bags & Compressor/Tank, Need Suggestions

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Trip to Jackson Hole Wyoming

Inverter/charger vs converter/charger

Here is the idea, I have had the my 3500 4X4 dropped 2 inches in the rear axle by switching the 4 7/8 inch spacer blocks for a set of 3 inch spacer blocks(total cost installed $108). I now can tow my 5th wheel without looking like I am going up hill all the time and the ride empty is much improved.

I am installing Air Lift Super Duty Air Bags to replace the OEM overload springs(had them on my 1st gen & loved them) with a 1/2 hp air compressor with a 4cfm flow and a 10 gallon air tank, I will be using the air lift gauge set and controls in the cab with a pressure regulator set for 100psi, the pressure switch on the compressor is set for a 145psi. the air tank is mounted on the underside of the truck and the compressor I want to mount up in the bed inner fender well(this will require cutting inside the bed wall and making a hinged mounting/access plate). Also added will be air connections front and rear on the truck, and of course a set of air horns in the future ;) .

So the question is, what am I forgetting and any suggestions ?

thanks

Kyle
 
Yes I put those on my 98 2500 and really like them. Watchout for Brake lines and the fuel tank. Air-lift fails to mention that in their instructions!! Glad I looked real good before I started drilling.



By the way, do you own a 2003 model? I undestand you can't drill that frame.



:p
 
You can get an air valve that is used on the big rigs that will maintain a constant ride height. I have on on my Cherokee, and one in the garage to put on my dodge. It works great on the Jeep. Load it up and a minute later it is back at the original ride height. Unload it and it lets the air out again. You don't have to mess with it.
 
navyjoe,



The Air Lift 5000s for the '03 trucks are "No Drill". The Firestone Ride-Rites are "no drill" also. I have a set of Air Lifts in the box waiting on the '03 to arrive.



Bill
 
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