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Aftermarket Balljoints

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MVVorce

TDR MEMBER
I was able to order balljoints for my 3500 4x4 at my local NAPA store yesterday. I know a lot of you have been holding out for aftermarket so here is a heads up that they are out there.
 
Joints for the 03

thanks RB for the Joint info. . When I need them i'll have the data,, By the way will these fit in the Jets you work on haha Doc
 
They are non-greasable but I am going to install them just the same. I have had good luck in the past with NAPA parts compared to say Auto Zone and have no reason to think other wise as of now. I am told the best quality parts now come with no grease fittings by some very good mechanics. Any way they should out last the standard parts that came on it.
 
I don't know what mechanic prefers nongreasable suspension components but I never met one in years of selling parts to them. Moog doesn't offer any non greasable components that I know of, and I sold theirs almost exclusively.



I would go OE before I'd buy aftermarket and non-greasable.
 
MVVorce said:
They are non-greasable but I am going to install them just the same. I have had good luck in the past with NAPA parts compared to say Auto Zone and have no reason to think other wise as of now. I am told the best quality parts now come with no grease fittings by some very good mechanics. Any way they should out last the standard parts that came on it.





MVVorce,

Can we get a part number? my NApa dealer can't seem to find them

Thanks
 
Sometimes, non-greasable components are preferred over greasable ones because many people don't have the first clue how to properly grease a joint. I'd rather have a well-greased sealed component than an improperly greased greasable component any day.



Having said that, I want only greasable components on my truck, because I feel I can competently grease them.



-Ryan

P. S. - Post number 4000 for me! My goodness I spend a lot of time here. :rolleyes:
 
When I had my sec gen CTD the trick thing was to drill and tap the end caps on the joint and install your own zerks. I would be pice of cake to do that before you install them. I havent looked at the 3rd gen, maybe not??
 
If the ball isn't designed to take grease, you're not doing anything of value by doing that. It's just like stabbing the boots and filling them with grease. It's a waste of time.
 
The NAPA part numbers are upper 260-1580 and lower 260-1579. I would like to comment on aftermarket non-greasable compared with OE. If OE was so good I would not be replacing my balljoint at such a low milage and driving many more miles before doing so. I also have raced offroad motorcycles for years and can contest to getting a better quality aftermarket part then OE and in most cases it is cheaper. I have also been to many seminars on proper lubing of sealed componets and have seen many seasoned mechanics overlube a componet and pop the seal and in doing so let contaminents into the componet and shorten it's life.
 
I have sold parts for years. Aftermarket parts are made to last indefinitely, usually, where OE parts are made to make it through the warranty period.



The reason I said that is that I'd buy OE because they're cheaper than good aftermarket parts, and I'd wait and buy greasable TRW or Moog down the road when they're available.



Ball joints are the same side for side huh? They're press in, I'm assuming?



Oh how I loathe doing balljoints... . I'm going to hate life when mine wear out.
 
Don't go with OE ball joints. They are normally more expensive than the one at the parts store and made by aftermarket companies with mopar name slapped on them. Sometime, parts places like autozone offer lifetime warranties on their joints.



Erik
 
You really shouldn't shop for your parts based on what the warranty is. Buy the quality of the part, not the warranty. That is one of the biggest mistakes most auto parts customers make. Autozone offers a lifetime warranty on their brake pads, which are complete trash. They offer a 1 year on their Raybestos brake pads, which are far superior in quality and actually, some grades have a lifetime warranty from the manufacturer (Autozone just won't honor it).



OE parts are often times cheaper than aftermarket when you have a dealer account. Gaskets are a prime example... . much cheaper at the dealer. Chassis, I'd say could go either way. Your average joe is going to pay out the *** at the dealer, though, and such is the business. I don't agree with it, but that's the way it is.



I would say that an aftermarket part that doesn't have a grease zerk is definitely no better than OE, and could very well be lower in quality. I have never sold chassis without grease fittings. That's almost unheard of in the automotive aftermarket, unless it's impossible to install one.



Any chassis component that cannot be greased, and further, purged of old grease, dirt, and metal filings will wear prematurely. I'd go with whichever is cheaper unless the aftermarket part was of questionable quality, and go with the best you can get next time (and keep it greased!).
 
Tim said:
You really shouldn't shop for your parts based on what the warranty is. Buy the quality of the part, not the warranty.



That is probably the best statment you have made around here. Let me clarify, i hate autobone. I do enjoy their warranty. When my steering box was leaking on my 96, i replaced it with a Cardone reman from autozone. Lifetime warranty, great deal I must say. Thier cheap valuecraft and other junk brands their carry, you could not give me. For example, i wont buy a lifetime reman water pump from autozone, i would rather buy a brand new airtex with a 1 year warranty. Why do I want to replace a cheap lifetime pump multiple times? It is not worth it. Most suspension parts are made by TRW, Federal mogal, etc. No matter where you get them, its the same. You need to find out the brand before you buy and base everything on that. Bendix pads are the only pads I will buy for most cars, 1 free replacement and the pads are good. Who wants to replace junk lifetime pads every 10k miles? Not me.....
 
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