Air Conditioning Problem

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hvac door #3

Need gauges...all-in-one?

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Hey yall, New to the site, also new to having a diesel.



Just a couple weeks ago, my a/c started fluctuating, like it was low on refrigerant. i didnt think to much of it and continued driving. . The other day i drove out to anna, tx, and about 30 minutes in, my AC got real cold, then got hot. . The next day i went to walmart and bought a tall can of r134a with a gauge on it. it was showing "Safe zones" on the can. I plugged into the low side and it read about 45-46psi, i ended up emptying the entire can in, and it filled up to about 47psi.



My AC works a little better, but it still sucks. is there a problem with my compressor? maybe something broke internally and i have trash clogging my system? I have a trip from Texas to Arizona tomorrow, and from Arizona to California the day after, and i'd rather not roll through there with my windows down.
 
Check to make sure the A/C compressor clutch is engaging every 8-10 seconds. If it's at 46psi with the compressor running, then either you have wayyy to much freon in the system, or your compressor is toasted. If the compressor is not engaging, I'm not sure what the problem is, as it's either not getting current or the clutch has gone bad..... without looking at it, I'm not sure what to tell you to try... .
 
Ok, since we're on the A/C problems.



If the compressor clutch is not engaging is it possible to replace just the clutch? If not, where's the best deal on a new compressor?
 
Try these guys. I use them for all my tractor parts when I'm in that area..... or find someone like them: Abilene Radiator



Then there's these guys, but they can be jerks over the phone. They'd rather sell you a complete compressor, as well, but they CAN sell you a clutch, if they will: Automotive Air Conditioning Products in the Automotive Aftermarket New OE, Aftermarket New & Remanufactured Compressors as well as Parts, Tools, Accessories, Hose, Fittings, Chemicals & MORE Austin Baker Industries



I know Orielly's carries clutches only... . I was in the back the other day and they had several dozen on the shelf. But you'll have to find someone willing to get in the paperbook to find it. And you'll have to find a number on yours that you can cross or else take yours off and take it to them.....
 
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It's 12v, so a hot wire from the battery to it should do it. I've got a breaker tied in to a jumper wire for testing things just like that. If you have it unplugged, it should be the black wire... . some have two black wires... . I know that's not much help... . I have no idea what the ohms should be, but i bet they're pretty high.
 
thanks. mines toast
however, i couldn't get voltage from the harness (from battery)
Does the computer stops send power if it sees an open circuit?
(bad clutch and not working at all)
 
Yes, if the PCM doesn't sense engine rpm(operation) is cuts the power to the alternator and A/C clutch, and a few other things to conserve battery power and sensor overheat. The 2nd gen 12v's will do the same thing, even when running, if they lose the crank sensor. You'll probably have to have it running, so splice you up some jumper harnesses so you can remotely test the circuit away from the belt. I was suggesting a jumper wire from the battery directly to the clutch itself to test for engagement.
 
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