Here I am

Air Dog Install Questions

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Help need engine code

Smarty Install W/ Edge Juice Attitude

Status
Not open for further replies.
OK... Let me start out by giving you all an overview of what we are doing to this truck. We installed an HTT stainless turbo, DD 90 horse injectors, five inch MBRP, Edge with Hot, Modded CP3, and a few other goodies. We are in the middle of installing an Air Dog 150 system. Decided to go with it because of so many good reviews about it and of course the almost $200 savings over the Fass.



Before i describe my problem I have to tell you because it is eating me up inside, and i really don't want to start any trouble with this thread because i truly need help, but those have to be the worst directions i have ever seen in my entire life on anything i have ever put together or installed, including furniture. I will leave it at that and really don't want to expand on it unless necessary.



Here goes... ... . We mounted the pump and bracket, dropped the fuel tank, layed it on 2/4s where the straps lay, drilled and installed the pickup tube with an 1/8th inch space from the bottom of the tank. Plugged STOCK fuel pump back in, re-connected factory fuel lines back to the pump and re-installed the fuel tank. Beautiful. Then we cut in and installed the pipe with the fitting on it for the Dog return line. Ran and mounted all wiring except for the relay lead wire. Connected all lines to the Dog and ran the main feed line to the front engine bay. So, everything is done except for the relay lead and the main fuel feed line. Beautiful.



Here is my problem... ... . The main is suppose to go to the CP3. Disconect the existing line on top of the CP3 and connect the new feed. Plug the line u pulled out unless you have the recycling fuel system. Then what? This is where i am confused. Can i just get a fitting and plug my feed line coming from the dog into the back of the filter canister in place of the stock feed, disable my stock fuel pump and call it a day???????? If i can will the stock fuel lines going from the canister to the CP3 be of any sagnificant restriction to the system? If so maybe a dual feed line will help? Please help. ANY input is greatly appreciated. I need to get this thing buttoned up. TY. :confused:
 
Last edited:
I don't know when you brought it but Pure Flow Technologies has new revised directions out that you can download from their site.

Your question about hooking up the stock filter WILL not allow enough fuel through it. There is no need to run the stock filter housing. The AD has a 2 micron filter the best you can get for the stock filter is 5. (I think) All you need to do now is take the line coming from the you AD150 and run it to the CP3 and call it a day.



If you want to clean up the engine bay a liitl you can to GDP's website for this eliminator. Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't know when you brought it but Pure Flow Technologies has new revised directions out that you can download from their site.

Your question about hooking up the stock filter WILL not allow enough fuel through it. There is no need to run the stock filter housing. The AD has a 2 micron filter the best you can get for the stock filter is 5. (I think) All you need to do now is take the line coming from the you AD150 and run it to the CP3 and call it a day.



If you want to clean up the engine bay a liitl you can to GDP's website for this eliminator. Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail



I bought the Dog one week ago and i hope that these aren't their revised dire ctions. If i went to the canister i planned on removing the filter and running thru the empty canister since the Dog already has one. Also if i go to the CP3 pump what do i do with the line which i will be removing in order to hook up the new feed? Thnx
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I do not know what to do with the line after you remove it from the CP3. I am thinking of removing the stock fuel system from my truck, because the lift pump is just about shot and with it gone the enigine will look better less clutter.



If you go to through the stock filter housing you are going to need to buy different fittings. The fittings from Air Dog do not include fittings for the stock fuel canister.
 
My truck got the intake "fix". When I did the air dog, I went to the filter canister AND left a new filter in there (why not?) I'll change it out when the air dog filter change once a year or so. Fuel pressure at the cp3 is a steady 30psi (as I got a different spring)



the original fuel SUPPLY line to the canister I just plugged up with a bolt and clamp and tied it off to the side.
 
My truck got the intake "fix". When I did the air dog, I went to the filter canister AND left a new filter in there (why not?) I'll change it out when the air dog filter change once a year or so. Fuel pressure at the cp3 is a steady 30psi (as I got a different spring)



the original fuel SUPPLY line to the canister I just plugged up with a bolt and clamp and tied it off to the side.



im doing the same thing except leaving the stock filter out and adding the big line kit from the canicter to the CP3.
 
Geno's Garage, you can find a kit that will replace the factory filter canister with a part that hooks right up to where the stock return lines go (no re-bending of lines). looks good as it cleans up the under hood area.



2 down sides to those who already hooked into the canister first



1. re-run the supply line, cost $20 for new hose (any big rig repair shop will have 1/2 inline) or Patch a few feet in, you'd have to buy fitting ends.



2. You lose your OEM fuel heater. This can be replaced with one at the AirDog.



Also another reason I forgot to mention as to why I did the canister method is that I have that tapped banjo bolt setup for my low-pressure fuel pressure setup right there at the cp3 inlet. I'd have to get a replacement for that setup. Since most of the run to the canister is 1/2". Didn't figured the last few feet would matter as much. Still and improvement.



If I were to replace the canister with the Geno's kit deal, I'd prolly patch the supply line and in the coupler fitting I'd move the fuel pressure sensor to that area. I'd for sure get the fleetgauge fuel heater and extend the wiring from the stock location back to the AirDog for my area. it can get cold in MN. .
 
I think if you use the Vulcan big line kit to your relocated OEM pump you can just disconnect the 1/2" line from the OEM pump to canister directly to the Air Dog. At least I think you can I have not installed mine yet but will; probably start Monday. But mine is the Fp-100 so hopefully do not have to drop the tank.
 
I think if you use the Vulcan big line kit to your relocated OEM pump you can just disconnect the 1/2" line from the OEM pump to canister directly to the Air Dog. At least I think you can I have not installed mine yet but will; probably start Monday. But mine is the Fp-100 so hopefully do not have to drop the tank.



with the 100 i think u hook the feed in place of the stock feed at the pump. You don't need a new pick-up. You can access the top of the tank through the wheel well. :)
 
does any one have any pics? Alil hard to follow, I have the big line kit from GDP. I want to keep my fuel pressure gauge hooked up between the stock filter and CP3. I was thinking about the GDP filter housing delete are just taking the filter completely out. And who is Charlie?
 
Don't want to hijack this but does Air Dog answer emails. I sent one and still have nto got an answer I guess will have to call. The following is questions I asked o any of you know the answers:

I have just received my Air Dog ordered from XDP Lakewood NJ for my 2001 Dodge RAM
245 horse HO diesel engine.

I had ordered a FP-100 but the name plate on the Air Dog says FP-80.

A. Is the FP-80 and FP-100 the same or did I get something that I did not
order?

B. If they are not the same what are the differences between the two?

C. Instructions for installation is for model FP-100 & FP-150 am I correct in
assuming the installation shown for the FP-100 and FP-80 are the same?

D. What fuel pressure can I expect from this installation measuring this pressure
at the VP-44?

E. I would like to maintain a fuel pressure around approx. 15 PSI at idle if this
is not the case can the pressure be adjusted?

F. At this point I want to retain the OEM fuel filter for the fuel heating features.
With a new filter what additional pressure drop should I see?

G. I understand some TDR people that are using your competitor FASS has kept it
plumbed through the OEM canister but have removed the OEM filter. Do you know if
this has been done using the Air Dog? I am considering this option.

Thus far TDR forum people have had nothing but good things to say about the Air
Dog. Looking forward to replacing the OEM lift pump and having many years of hopefully
trouble free service from your pump.
 
I got all the answers to the above questions from another TDR Member except for G, don't you just love TDR!!!!

I have the Air Dog installed and plumbed just need to complete the electrical, bleed and check for leaks. Perhaps adjust pressure if necessary. I have a 3500 dually long bed with wheel well liners and most everyone said you can access the quick disconnect on the top of the tank from the wheel well after removing the tires. I guess I must be getting old or just to fat but I could not do it after trying several methods. I got to looking and if I disconnected the drive line from rear end I could get easier access. To disconnect drive line and swing out of the way took about a 1/3 of the time I spent and did not get it off through the wheel well area. It was a lot easier this way, I know remove the tank would have been easier. Lefting the bed would have been even easier but with the cross bed TransferFlow and 5er rails this really was not an option.
 
The anwser to g is yes. I just installed the 150 on my friend's truck and we hooked the feed to the canister. The canister has a stock banjo fitting which is a bolt with holes in it. Get rid of it as it is a great restricton and order the proper fitting from air dog. We took out the stock filter from the canister. We also ordered the big line kit from VULCAN and not GDP because GDP's kit is 3/8ths line and VULCAN's kit is 1/2 inch line. TRUCK RUNS GREAT. Charlie is the owner of Pure Flow Technologies which makes the Air Dog.
 
does any one have any pics? Alil hard to follow, I have the big line kit from GDP. I want to keep my fuel pressure gauge hooked up between the stock filter and CP3. I was thinking about the GDP filter housing delete are just taking the filter completely out. And who is Charlie?



Charlie is the owner of Pure flow tech. who makes the air dog. I don't know if you can get rid of the canister. On 06 trucks they have a fuel recycling system. Some 06s have them and some don't. If you have it you will have a fuel line going from the canister to the back of the head looking at it from the bottom of the truck. From what i understand it gets a little complecated to work with this if you bypass the canister. If you don't have it you can go straight to the CP3. There are pics on this site if you search.
 
SShafranko- I did remove the OEM filter and kept the Vulcan 1/2" lines to the OEM fuel canister and VP. Okay got the electrical done and am showing 12. 8 at idle and 11 WOT. I have noticed in the past anytime I do something to the fuel system I have low fuel pressure for a period of time, maybe it is the Autometer(electric). I have a 400 mile trip this weekend and will decide if I need a stronger spring or need to add 1/4 washers to the pressure regulator as I really want 15 psi at idle.
 
SShafranko- I did remove the OEM filter and kept the Vulcan 1/2" lines to the OEM fuel canister and VP. Okay got the electrical done and am showing 12. 8 at idle and 11 WOT. I have noticed in the past anytime I do something to the fuel system I have low fuel pressure for a period of time, maybe it is the Autometer(electric). I have a 400 mile trip this weekend and will decide if I need a stronger spring or need to add 1/4 washers to the pressure regulator as I really want 15 psi at idle.



I am not very familiar with the fuel system on diesels but i am getting there slowly as most of us are on this site. Anyway could it possibly be air in the system. I have herd of trucks running krappy after installing fuel mods until the air is bled. Not sure if air in fuel woul affect your fuel pressure. Just a thought.
 
I am not very familiar with the fuel system on diesels but i am getting there slowly as most of us are on this site. Anyway could it possibly be air in the system. I have herd of trucks running krappy after installing fuel mods until the air is bled. Not sure if air in fuel woul affect your fuel pressure. Just a thought.



I suspect it maybe air in the fuel pressure line to the sender I mounted on the firewall. Not really sure as I have not been able to verify it. Like I said I have a 400 mile trip this weekend and after that the fuel pressure should settle down. At that point will determine if the pressure needs to be adjusted. I will let you know.
 
I suspect it maybe air in the fuel pressure line to the sender I mounted on the firewall. Not really sure as I have not been able to verify it. Like I said I have a 400 mile trip this weekend and after that the fuel pressure should settle down. At that point will determine if the pressure needs to be adjusted. I will let you know.



Keep me posted because we haven't installed the fuel pressure gauge on my friend's truck yet. We will be installing it this weekend. THNX.



Did your truck start right up after installing the fuel system without bleeding it?
 
Keep me posted because we haven't installed the fuel pressure gauge on my friend's truck yet. We will be installing it this weekend. THNX.



Did your truck start right up after installing the fuel system without bleeding it?



I will keep you posted I have a 200 mile trip to Phoenix tomorrow to catch a flight to St. Louis and won't return tell early Monday morning. I decided a good way to prime would be after removal of OEM filter I would just put cap on a few threads and bump the starter. Well it did fill the canister, fuel lines to the canister, etc. Unlike the OEM Carter it filled the canister and had fuel all over the place. I tightened the canister cap then bumped the starter 4 or 5 times then tried to start. It stumbled a lot almost died but did not and a big cloud of smoke and ran just fine. Hope that helps a little; I sort of figured I still had fuel from canister to injectors was the reason I did it this way.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top