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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) air filters and intakes...

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Here's one for ya.

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Seems there are as many opinions on this as there are on oil... . I don't like the idea of an oiled filter so what are my options? Cold air kits, cutting holes in the air box, bhaf... what's best? Thanks.
 
What do want - more noise, more hot air, good filtration?



cone style in box - $250-300: more noise, about the same air temp as stock if air is drawn outside of the engine compartment, mostly oiled types.



BHAF with Outwears and heat shield - $100-150: slightly more more noise than stock, hotter air



Stock - $15: for a replacement filter, least noise, coolest air except for Scotty's, flows enough air to support 350-400 HP.



I ran a shielded, covered, BHAF for a couple of years. I just put my stock air box back on and notice 40-50 degree cooler EGT. With my current fueling mods, I haven't been able to pull the filter minder down, so the flow is sufficient.
 
Boondocker said:
What do want - more noise, more hot air, good filtration?



cone style in box - $250-300: more noise, about the same air temp as stock if air is drawn outside of the engine compartment, mostly oiled types.



BHAF with Outwears and heat shield - $100-150: slightly more more noise than stock, hotter air



Stock - $15: for a replacement filter, least noise, coolest air except for Scotty's, flows enough air to support 350-400 HP.



I ran a shielded, covered, BHAF for a couple of years. I just put my stock air box back on and notice 40-50 degree cooler EGT. With my current fueling mods, I haven't been able to pull the filter minder down, so the flow is sufficient.
:rolleyes: Exactly my experience and sentiments. I'm running an Amsoil drop-in with the stock box. No filterminder movement. Quieter than the others and supports my mods. 'Nuff said!
 
My setup netted me 4-5psi additional boost with the stage 2 afe over stock air box and k&n drop-in



good point on temp(egt's) never concidered that or noticed maybe i'll try a home blt. cold air and see what happens
 
Check the seal around your filterminder. Mine never moved in the first 2. 5 years I owned the truck and most of the time it had the mods in my signature. The last time I cleaned my aFe, I pulled the filterminder and put some petroleum jelly on the inside and outside of the rubber grommet. Now I can pull 7" of vacuum.
 
AWray said:
Check the seal around your filterminder. Mine never moved in the first 2. 5 years I owned the truck and most of the time it had the mods in my signature. The last time I cleaned my aFe, I pulled the filterminder and put some petroleum jelly on the inside and outside of the rubber grommet. Now I can pull 7" of vacuum.

Thanks,I'll try it. I greased the heck out of it for removal for application to AFE,but probably cleaned it up again.
 
Greased!

Well,I just returned from a regreased filterminder seal test run. Drove truck,accelerated under load to 3,000rpm briefly. Checked filterminder and still no movement. I rechecked the Amsoil seating and the clips and everything appears Kosher. I'm assuming with my mods,its flowing adequately. No dust or powdery residue in intake hose. I downloaded sw#8 Smarty w/EZ installed and mucho smoke at shift points but still no filterminder movement.
 
Boondocker said:
What do want - more noise, more hot air, good filtration?



cone style in box - $250-300: more noise, about the same air temp as stock if air is drawn outside of the engine compartment, mostly oiled types.



BHAF with Outwears and heat shield - $100-150: slightly more more noise than stock, hotter air



Stock - $15: for a replacement filter, least noise, coolest air except for Scotty's, flows enough air to support 350-400 HP.



I ran a shielded, covered, BHAF for a couple of years. I just put my stock air box back on and notice 40-50 degree cooler EGT. With my current fueling mods, I haven't been able to pull the filter minder down, so the flow is sufficient.



Hm... . I may have to re-think my BHAF. I have done some testing with this, if a open the hood right after I stop, the temperature is pretty cool but heats up fast.



BTW your sig still shows you run a BHAF. :)



Jim
 
I switched back to the stock air box a couple of weeks ago. It was kind of an experiment, so I didn't bother with sig. The first week with the stock box, I was running a dirty old filter, didn't bother to get a new one when I switched to the BHAF. With the dirty filter, I was able to get the filter minder to move a bit with couple of hard up-hill runs empty. Now that I have a new filter in, the same test doesn't move the filter minder. I always lightly coat the rubber edge of the filter with petroleum jelly before installing in the box.



Neil
 
If your pulling a vacuum either your filter is too small for the needs of the engine or it is dirty. In an ideal situation you should never pull a vacuum on the filter minder. I used The Right stuff silicone to seal my filter restriction gauge.
 
Boondocker said:
I switched back to the stock air box a couple of weeks ago. It was kind of an experiment, so I didn't bother with sig. The first week with the stock box, I was running a dirty old filter, didn't bother to get a new one when I switched to the BHAF. With the dirty filter, I was able to get the filter minder to move a bit with couple of hard up-hill runs empty. Now that I have a new filter in, the same test doesn't move the filter minder. I always lightly coat the rubber edge of the filter with petroleum jelly before installing in the box.



Neil



I'm going to say that you are capable of running 300-350 Hp according to your sig. When you install the bigger turbo I am thinking you will be pushing 375+ which should be where I think that I will end up (maybe around 400 Hp for me). Still 40F reduction in EGT tells the tale more than any hype that I have read about the BHAF. I wonder why so many people run them?



Jim
 
I bought an outdoor thermometer with a wireless transmitter / reciever. I got the idea from RWeis and his "fuel temperature" thread.



I started doing some testing, by mounting the sensor on the turbo side of my BHAF. I found that if the truck is moving at all, I get about OAT + 10F. Moving at 40 MPH I get OAT + 4F. At 60 MPH I get OAT + 1F. I am pretty sure the BHAF is getting cool air with the truck running down the highway.



If I stop and idle or stop at a stop light, the temperature can easily go to OAT + 20F fairly quickly. The average for city stop and go traffic is OAT + 10F. My high tech low tech set-up does not update really fast, so I am sure I have some error there.



When I shutdown the engine, the temperature rise can get scary. I'm talking OAT + 30F to OAT + 40F. Leaving the hood open a bit makes a huge difference. I am starting to consider the OEM wisdom of NOT installing the hood insulation in my truck.



LOL :) It's so funny how easily I can talk myself into wanting a cowl induction hood.



Jim
 
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