Competition Air shutoff valves

[csutton7]

thanks sledpuller & BBD--I thought it was but the specs don't come out say that and since mine is on it's way I wasn't 100% sure--chris

 

[moremph]

cool, thanks for the quick answer





Travis

 

[ob1kobi]

Ted,

I researched the crap out of them for a couple years, and Chalwyn seemed to always come up $500 cheaper, and more compact.



I built mine to shut off with a cable. EDIT: the cable releases the trigger/pin, the spring closes the valve.

Thanks Gene,

 

[bgilbert]

I would be interested in a 3" manual cable style only. Gene are these the same as yours? Chris can you send me the info? Thanks, Bill.

 

[RyanB]

Gene- How did you set up the cable operated on your truck? I take it in your class you don't have to have the ring/shut down on your bumper?



One other question for you all... could one use this as a theft prevention device (ie- shut the valve when leaving the vehical, hidding swith... shouldn't start???) My truck is still going to be a daily driver and theft on this truck worries me seeing I have so much time and money into it!



Ryan

 

[Sled Puller]

Yes, you just tell them manual or electric controls. They have a really nice cable, that is extra, that would be nice for cab control.

 

[Sled Puller]

Ryan,

I'll post pictures of what I did later on.



Excellent theft deterrent. Its a good shutdown for any reason, not just competition.

 

[Sled Puller]

I was setting this up to go to the back of the truck, for a sled shut down. I did it this way, so the bolt the cable end is wrapped around would break off, or untwist if you broke away, after it tripped the shut off. I had visions of the entire intake being ripped back under the truck, plus the incab control being ripped through the dash.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125594

 

[Sled Puller]

The red button kills by push or pull. It can be removed for attachment of Chalwyns cable.

The steel handle, is the reset, you can cable it into the cab also.



Oh, and after you do ANYTHING on your truck, check to make sure its not tripped, it will save you several hours of aggravation trying to figure out why a truck won't start, when it did an hour ago.

 

[Sled Puller]

If you do it this way, move the valve as close to the intake horn as possible.

It should clear a P-pump injection lines with no problem. The one pictured is too far away, and will hit the lines coming out of the DV holders.

 

[BigBadDodge]

and the selinoid valve in my intake pipe:

#ad




Installed:

#ad




Break away switch on rear bumper:

#ad




BBD

 

[RacinDuallie]

Nice pics Gene. And clean work to boot.

 

[RyanB]

Yeah, Nice work to you both!!! I am just trying to figure out a few little details before I order mine. Also, I have been talking to a few year about ordering them..... where the both of yours in stock when you orderd your or did they have to come from England and wait a month or two?



Thanks... Ryan

 

[Sled Puller]

Thanks, but the craftsmanship goes to Kings Machine Shop, masters of billet aluminum and aluminum welding. I am long on ideas, short on execution!

I think I got mine in about a week.

No doubt much easier in the pipe where Scott put his, but I had different plans for that pipe... . shhh its a secret.

 

[csutton7]

the one that sleddy used, the MVX 300, should be in stock, it's the solenoid operated ones SVX 380/580 & SVX 381/581 that could take a month or so to get--depends on current stock, but it sounded like they didn't stock to many or were low at the moment---



the cable available for the MVX model comes in 25ft or 10ft lengths with a T-handle attached--you cut it to fit--but you will have to figure out how to make it work for the rear bumper just like sleddy did---the in cab installation should be pretty straight forward---chris

 

[csutton7]

go here for updated order info--chris



http://www.diesel-central.com/forums/default.aspx?mode=thread&TopicID=3384