Alternator Advice -HELP!

[WarEagleDiesel]

Thank You in Advance.



Specs:

2009

2500

6. 7 (of course)

4x4

G56 Transmission

SWB



Dang alternator has failed at 72,000 miles! Any advice on where to purchase a new alternator? Manufacturer suggestions?



Current alternator is OEM (Part No: 56028732AC) 136 AMP alternator. Are there any “bolt on” interchangeable alternators, with greater AMP output, manufactured?* If so, could suggestions please be provided. *

*

I HAVE to replace this thing ASAP so I can get back on the road…



Thank you again for your help.



BH

*

 

[mwilson]

I have to ask, are you sure that it has failed???



Not a normal thing to have happen at 72,000 miles. Who did the diagnosis??



Also, why the desire to go to a higher amperage??? Are you running a winch or some other power sucking device???

A tailgate mounted 12V Margarita mixer or something similar???:-laf



If it has failed it could be just the brushes or the brush holder.



I would fix it or have it fixed at a reliable alternator shop than buy an offshore one with a questionable pedigree if it makes economic sense to do so.



If it is indeed junk and not worth fixing there are several companies selling brand new replacements (avoid Remans IMHO).



Mike.

 

[WarEagleDiesel]

mwilson,



Thank you for your response. Below I have provided answers to your questions, with additional thought on my behalf.



I am not 100% sure the alternator has failed. However, if you could list other possibilities for experiencing low battery voltage after driving for approximately 1 hour at night, dim headlights and dome lights, dim dashboard illumination, slow a/c fan operation, slow automatic windows, etc. then I am all ears. I spoke with another person who mentioned I should check a 400amp fuse in the fuse box, which I will do before removing the alternator and having it tested, but those are the only two failurs I can think of that would contribute to the symptoms.



Diagnosis: myself



Higher Amperage: I am aware of the amperage pull the grid heaters require when operating. Since I purchased the truck, when the grid heaters kick on, the a/c slows, lights dim, etc. so I figure if I were to provide and increased supply of amps, that may remedy that issue, while removing some of the stress that type of load can apply to the OEM alternator.



I am looking at a DC Power Engineering Hight Output XP model alternator as the replacement.

 

[BILLUA]

What is the voltage differential on the batteries while the engine is running versus not running?

 

[6speed]

The grid heaters demand alot of power. But I just rebuilt my alt for $35 compared to 6X the cost of a new one. An mine had 200K on it. But the brushes were about shot. A 180 Amp alternator is not needed unless you are running a lot of extra electrical items, IE: amplifiers, winches, power supplied equipment, etc.

 

[mwilson]

mwilson,



Thank you for your response. Below I have provided answers to your questions, with additional thought on my behalf.



I am not 100% sure the alternator has failed. However, if you could list other possibilities for experiencing low battery voltage after driving for approximately 1 hour at night, dim headlights and dome lights, dim dashboard illumination, slow a/c fan operation, slow automatic windows, etc. then I am all ears. I spoke with another person who mentioned I should check a 400amp fuse in the fuse box, which I will do before removing the alternator and having it tested, but those are the only two failurs I can think of that would contribute to the symptoms.



Diagnosis: myself



Higher Amperage: I am aware of the amperage pull the grid heaters require when operating. Since I purchased the truck, when the grid heaters kick on, the a/c slows, lights dim, etc. so I figure if I were to provide and increased supply of amps, that may remedy that issue, while removing some of the stress that type of load can apply to the OEM alternator.



I am looking at a DC Power Engineering Hight Output XP model alternator as the replacement.

1) Test your batteries and connections. That is the number one issue as a failing battery creates complete havoc with these third gen trucks. Check connections of both batteries, very important!!!



2) I don't recall the 400 amp fuse, but that don't mean that there isn't one. But if it were blown then the truck in theory would not charge at all.



3) What does the volt meter in the cluster indicate while you are driving after dark?? Can you rig up a multi-tester and see what the voltage is doing as you add the load of the headlights, etc. I have seen digital voltmeters for cheap money somewhere that plug right into an accessory or cig light socket.



4) Don't waste extra money trying to make the lights stop dimming when the grid heaters cycle. You are not going to stop it. It does not hurt a thing. I have two trucks in the driveway that do it everytime they are fired up.

If you have no other need for extra power keep the charging system stock. It is more than adequate as designed.

Trust me, if the charging system sucked I would tell you so.



5) Take the alternator off and get it tested, I am really having trouble thinking it is toast at 75,000 miles. Not saying that it isn't, just not likely.



6) Are the grid heaters sticking on and you are only noticing it after dark because of the dimming headlights????



Only trying to help you fix it, not just throw money at it. Many times a lot of good money is spent on these trucks chasing a problem when in reality something very simple has gone wrong.



Mike.

 

[WarEagleDiesel]

Batter connections = excellent in my opinion. Nice and tight, no wiggle. The passenger side battery has very very slight corrosion on the positve terminal lead. I just replaced these batteries 2,000 miles ago (the batteries I replaced were the OEM).



Voltage differentials (readings gathered with Fluke 83 multimeter at both passenger and driver battery, positive and negative terminals):



Not running (nothing on, including dome light): 11. 25 (passenger and driver)

Running (nothing on, including dome light): 11. 01 passenger 11. 00 driver

Running (with dome lights on): 10. 96 passenger 10. 95 driver

Running with dome lights on and headlights on: 10. 75 passenger 10. 75 driver

Running (with dome lights on and headlights on and A/C running): 10. 38 passenger 10. 39 driver

Running (dome lights with A/C without headlights) [truck running for approximately 3 minutes at this point]: 9. 94 passenger 9. 93 driver

Not running (nothing on, including dome light): 10. 53 passenger 10. 57 driver



The Voltage gage on my cluster reads just to the right of the vertical "tick mark" (I would approximate 9-10 volt reading based on the fact that when the batteries were at full power the gage reads half way between the 14 volt mark and the first mark to the left of the 14 volt indication) [I hope all of that makes sense]



I do not believe the grid heaters are sticking on. I can usually tell when they turn on and off. Even if they were sticking on, I believe my batteries would maintain a 12V or greater, charge, if everything on the vehicle is working properly?



Next step, alternator removal and test at Advance auto, unless otherwise suggested.

 

[leaky gasket]

If you have a automotive electrical shop close by I would suggest to go there. they would be able to test and rebuild your alternator for you.

 

[jtwcummins]

Looks like the alt, I lost mine at a little over 38K on clock. To be sure I would check the batts disconnected from the vehicle, a bad batt can cause your problem, like a shorted cell. Easier to check batts individually than pull the alt. Batt voltage w/o load & fully charged should be 12. 6 VDC, w/engine running should read 13. 6 -14 V if batts are good and alt working.



Not surprised if the alt is the culprit. Mine went out after getting oil change at dealer. Driving home volts went to about 9. The week before had made a trip to San Jose then to Yosemite Lakes. Seat of pants things didn't feel right going to YL, climbing New Priest Grade w/temp outside at 102*and traffic keeping me below 25 mph things weren't behaving right. Engine fan was cycling fast and trans got to 230* and things just didn't feel 'normal'. Guess the alt was taking a dump. After replacement things felt good again.

 

[JFought]

If you really need a larger alt, check mean green.
Some hav had issues, but I have not.
I had the stock rebuilt at a local shop and keep it as a spare.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I believe there is a fusible link where the alternator wire enters the PDC, that might be what the person was talking about but I don't think it is 400 amps. As others have suggested, iI think I would have the alternator checked, the regulator is in the PCM and that could also be the problem. bg

 

[BGlidewell]

Scenario 1: Fault killed alternator, replace alternator, fault kills new alternator too.
Scenario 2: Bad alternator, replace, all good.

Try to eliminate scenario 1 as a possibility...
Running a lot of accessories can be a more significant problem to overcome than you might think. I know on one particular truck after 10 or more alternators, I just learned to live without driving lights and 300 amp stereos...

 

[WarEagleDiesel]

Removed the alternator and had it tested at the auto parts store. ALTERNATOR FAILURE was the machine's diagnosis. Not a shop, dealer, nor auto parts store in town had one available. So, I think I may order one offline. I saw where JFought recommended Mean Green, however, looking at their website it appears they do not manufacture an alternator for the 6. 7 Cummins (only 5. 9).

Anyone have any experience with DC Power Engineering alternators?

Anyone have any other aftermarket, high output, alternator manufacturer suggestions?



Additionally, I appreciate everyone's help with my problem. Honestly, I think the extreme temperatures we have been experiencing here in Alabama (105F-110F) for over a week, may have contributed to the alternator failure (I know 105F may not sound all that hot, but when the humidity is in the 87% range, constantly, it can be pretty intense). Once I am up and running again, I will post updates on how the new equipment operates.



BGlidewell, I hope Scenario 2 is the case here. More to come...

 

[mwilson]

Well, now that you have it out have a look at the brush holder and brushes.



Here is a nice presentation that shows how they come out... . you don't have to completely dismantle it as he was doing bearings as well.



Bosch Alternator Rebuild - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum



Mike.

 

[BILLUA]

Removed the alternator and had it tested at the auto parts store. ALTERNATOR FAILURE was the machine's diagnosis. Not a shop, dealer, nor auto parts store in town had one available. So, I think I may order one offline. I saw where JFought recommended Mean Green, however, looking at their website it appears they do not manufacture an alternator for the 6. 7 Cummins (only 5. 9).

Anyone have any experience with DC Power Engineering alternators?

Anyone have any other aftermarket, high output, alternator manufacturer suggestions?



Additionally, I appreciate everyone's help with my problem. Honestly, I think the extreme temperatures we have been experiencing here in Alabama (105F-110F) for over a week, may have contributed to the alternator failure (I know 105F may not sound all that hot, but when the humidity is in the 87% range, constantly, it can be pretty intense). Once I am up and running again, I will post updates on how the new equipment operates.



BGlidewell, I hope Scenario 2 is the case here. More to come...

I have had great service from these guys:



DB Electrical - Regular Output

 

[wcjp]

Something to keep in mind when purchasing other than OE alternator. Most alternators are cold rated. As the alternator warms up it produces less power (amps). The alternator produces max power at max rpm. A few alternators are hot rated. This means power is measured after the components are heated up when power output is lower than cold. Be sure to compare apples to apples.

Looks to be $200 at Napaonline.com

 

[BGlidewell]

R Honestly, I think the extreme temperatures we have been experiencing here in Alabama (105F-110F) for over a week, may have contributed to the alternator failure (I know 105F may not sound all that hot, but when the humidity is in the 87% range, constantly, it can be pretty intense). Once I am up and running again, I will post updates on how the new equipment operates.

>100 for 60+ days/year is normal here and I have my original alternator. Good hunting!

 

[CBari]

Go find the coffee shop that farmers hang out at and ask them where they get their starters and alternators rebuilt at. It will be faster and far less expensive.

 

[CBari]

Go find the coffee shop that farmers hang out at and ask them where they get their starters and alternators rebuilt at. It will be faster and far less expensive.