Here I am

Competition Aluminum Cummins Rods

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Off Roading an on going project

Off Roading McCaslin Mt. December '05 wheelin trip

Isn't this the same guy that is selling that 600hp 12valve ? ? ? Be careful what you buy.....
Anybody with a lathe-mill can machine something pretty out of a block of aluminum. Look at that pin end? I wouldn't trust em. -IMHO
 
My opinions:



1. Yes, the pin eye is too thin. ( it looks too big, too???)

2. I would prefer the cap to rod interface to be larger.

3. The pocket milling looks more like a decoration than for function.

4. I would love to see the dyno run on the 1600 HP "B"... From a long ways away.



Nope, not planning on running them. Have some other short block plans, myself.
 
A talanted guy with a CNC machine and a billet of 7075 could make a set of those in a few hours. Where does he get $1600? And how do you keep from spinning the bearings out of them?



-Scott
 
SRadke said:
A talanted guy with a CNC machine and a billet of 7075 could make a set of those in a few hours. Where does he get $1600? And how do you keep from spinning the bearings out of them?

-Scott

No doubt.

I'm no pro, but they look like eye candy and that's it. I'd NEVER consider running them in an actual engine.

The small end is way too thin. AL has to be thicker than steel to make up for the lower tensile strength (i. e. , it hits the point of yield sooner on a stress/strain chart).

NOt to mention the inferior fatigue strength of AL especially in a stressed application like rods.

I agree that the 6AL4v would be a much better choice. Lighter, stronger, and the best fatigue life imaginable.


The only aluminum rod I'd ever consider running on the street is a BME rod in a gasser. IF BME built a Cummins rod, I'd guarantee you it would be about 4 times beefier than the rod that's pictured.


The biggest question I'd have is WHY? Why do an AL Cummins rod? Why not go for lighter crank and pistons first? I'd think that the 5. 9 is a prime candidate for a shorter piston and longer rod (lighter pistons, better rod ratio).

Heck, I posted earlier how one could get the rod ratio on the 5. 9 up to a better 1. 75 or 1. 8 with only a modest de-stroke and a shorter, yet still stable piston.

At least, that's my theory. Someone go prove me wrong.

jh
 
If you want to see a 1600hp B dyno run, just take a trip to beautiful Vallonia,IN. But I doubt you'll see any those particular rods there!
 
Quote by Hohn " need more cowbell!" man i busted a gut when i read that, that was the funniest snl skit ever, thanks. Now back to the discussion at hand. :D
 
Hohn said:
No doubt.



I'm no pro, but they look like eye candy and that's it. I'd NEVER consider running them in an actual engine.



The small end is way too thin. AL has to be thicker than steel to make up for the lower tensile strength (i. e. , it hits the point of yield sooner on a stress/strain chart).



NOt to mention the inferior fatigue strength of AL especially in a stressed application like rods.



I agree that the 6AL4v would be a much better choice. Lighter, stronger, and the best fatigue life imaginable. jh





Titanium is not lighter the aluminum. Aluminum weights 36 % of steel, and titanimun weights 61 %

I’ve run both rods in Pro Mod motor, and the only reason ti is used is it last longer. It’s about the same weight rod for rod, in that you have a lot less material. In a Pro Stock, or comp motor you change the rods every 40 to 50 runs, with Ti you can go about 200 runs . We use Ti in valve springs also, they maintain their seat pressure right up till the point that they break. I



Aluminum rods will work in a diesel , and there a few sets in tractor pullers now , but there is no strength problem , because a diesel never even gets close to the torque that a fuel motor makes , try 6000 ft pounds . And the fuel rods are the same forgings as the ones I have been working with.



Another reason is if you can cut reciprocation weight by over half , the gains in acceleration hp would be great.
 
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