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Aluminum frame vs. Wood frame

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Fleetwood and Thor???

5th whel hitch

Could someone please (one more time) explain the advantages or disadvantage of an aluminum frame over a wooden frame?? I was trying to explain it to my wife without success:rolleyes: . Also- are there any disadvantages to Fiberglass exteriors other than they are more expensive to repair??



Kev
 
Wooden framed campers are much more flexible and can rot if water ever seeps into the framing. I have heard of people still using 20+ year old wooden framed campers without a single problem. I have also heard of people having rotting problems with their brand new wooden frame campers. Just make sure that you don't develop a leak. Aluminum frame campers have been reported to actually "sweat" due to the heat transfer. I have a Bigfoot 3000 which has an aluminum frame encased in a polyurethane insulation (R12). I have never seen any signs of sweating except for on the aluminum escape hatch.



Fiberglass exteriors are much more rigid and heavy than the aluminum siding however they will not dent like the aluminum siding does. The aluminum siding has been around for a long time and has been proven to be very durable. I have the fiberglass siding and have been very please with it.
 
I've had both types and my money is on the wood frame and glass siding. I now have an aluminum frame and aluminum siding and it is one cold trailer when the temp get below 40's. The wood and glass siding kept me warm down to about 2 degrees.

Just my opinion
 
What brand of camper do you have Pogodually? I have the aluminum frame and glass siding as well and it is rated down to -40 degrees (siding is R12 and floor is R20). I don't think that any other camper beats it.
 
David- we have been looking at the Sunny Brook line. They are 100% aluminum structure, floor and ceiling and awalls, and not welded, but bolted together. they seem to be built like a tank but with about the same cost too:rolleyes: . I was maybe under the assumption that aluminum frames were stronger and better. We have also been looking at the Sportsmen , my wife likes that plan. It is a wood frame with laminated glass sides(option). The Sunnybrook has gelcoat one piece wall sides.



Kev
 
Kev-

Both look like very nice campers. The advantages of aluminum is generally a stiffer and lighter construction as well as it will never rot. The drawbacks is that the aluminum will potentially sweat if not insulated properly and is a much more expensive approach. Talk to the manufacturer to see how this has been addressed. The wood is characteristically and insulator in itself, but it does flex quite a bit and can potentially rot if water finds it.



The wife factor plays a huge role in the equation. ;) Put this consideration as number 1.



Also, check with the insulation factor as Pogodually suggests. Even though you might not plan to camp in cold weather environments, it will really make a difference on how much propane you will consume.
 
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It seems impossible to keep a RV from leaking and with wood frame a leak means rot and major repair. I have not had a alum frame rig but would prefer it when I can afford to buy one. The fiberglass siding wont dent and I think it cleans easier and because its not painted wont oxidize as fast. I was told by a body man that the fiberglass is easier to repair as its like a boat repair where with alum siding it has to come all apart and be replaced.
 
I think that it's dangerous to say that aluminum is better than wood or vice versa. What is more important is the quality, processes, and workmanship of the manfuacturer. Many if not most of the high end units are wood framed. I really had my heart set on an aluminum framed 5er when we bought ours last summer, and was close on buying a Sunnybrook, but ened up with the Arctic Fox instead. Both are high quality units. I am happy with the construction and quality of the Fox. I don't thing that there is all that much difference in weight between wood and aluminum framing. Most of the weight is in other components.



Arctic Fox Construction
 
Ken- Well said. The wieght difference isn't that much at all. In fact I think that manufactures (Sunnybrook being one of them) take advantage of ditching a few pounds of wood to install heavier higher quality components. I went ant looked at the Sportsmen this morning and was not too impressed:( , I know it sounds strange, but they seemed to have very little exterior storage and were short and had a low ceiling. All that and $25K seemed very pricey to me for what you get. I have seen the Fox, liked the construction they seem well built but I didn't care for the floorplan of the bunkhouse too much. We are going to drive (probably a ways 150miles or more) to look at the Sunnybrook SLE which is a slightly less luxurious coach than the regular. They still share a good deal of the features and that superstructure makes sense. Bolted together instead of welded aluminum. The Sunnybrook is awesome but expensive as hell.



Kev
 
High Roofs !

I for one would love to see the old style low roof 5th wheels be built again. We could'nt even find one in 2000 when we bought our new one. The high roof kills mileage and you notice a crosswind more also. When I go to bed, I LIE DOWN, do other people stand up in the bedroom? Why? My old Komfort was 2-3 ft. lower in the front. JMO:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
I was going to say something but Ken said it just fine. But one thing you need to look is the fact aluminum will "rot" also. It will sweat and there is little flex in the frame, as you have more of a unitized body. I looked at Teton, wood framing, King of The Road, same. I did like the Sunnybrooke but the wife did not like the inside. We bought a wood frame and so for, 3 years, no leaks. 12,K lbs but towing with a Cummins who cares. If we ever get another RV it will be the Teton. They have one my 3500 will handle and and I have never seen anything nicer on wheels. Not counting Motor Coaches. That said, I must look at the Artic Fox. I even like the name. :D



. . Preston. .
 
Well I've had wood framed and currenly have an Alpenlite Aluminum frame. I had wood rot on the old trailer, and don't want to deal with that again. The reason I chose the Alpenlite was the way the fiberglass skin was glued to the frame with the foam insulation as one unit. It doesn't sweat and is very solid. I may be wrong on this but the impression I got, when looking for a 5th wheel, was that only the cheaper models came with a wood frame. At least that was true when looking at Holiday Ramblers, Alpenlites and the like... ;)
 
We just spent the weekend looking at TT's at a RV show. We also went to a Sunnybrook dealer. We are going to buy a Sunnybrook TT after we check a couple more dealers out. The Sunnybrook Lite models are quite a bit less in cost, but they don't have as many options available on them. We are looking at a 27' model, and the Lite version has the identical floor plan as their more expensive line. My current TT is a Trail-lite which is all aluminum and fiberglass which I think is well built. This trailer has never had any signs of condensation in it . I've had wooden TT's that have had wood damage, and I will never own another one. I think that part of their problems are that some of the manufacturers use the cheapest wood they can purchase. My friend has a 5 year old TT that is wood construction. The wheel well had a leak, water got in under the floor, and the cheap pine 2x2's were black and rotten, and the OSB floor disentegrated. He fixed it, after a lot of work replacing wood. After I had seen what his 5 year old TT looked like, I figured I would not want a wood framed trailer. Part of the problem, is that they sandwich black plastic sheeting between the floor and frame of the trailer, and if water gets in by the floor, it can't get out. It just sat in there and rotted. I will have to say, that the wood framed trailers seem to be the cheapest priced units around. They were selling brand new Coachman (I believe) 25'TT's at the show with A/C, awnings, stereo, and microwaves, for $8995. Just my opinions(FWIW).
 
I sure like my alum/fiberglass Sunnybrook. I was skeptical of both materials at first! It's a lot stronger than the wood units I've had and I'll never go back to alum siding. Sunnybrook puts wood inserts inside the aluminum where ever additional strength is required for the screws. The fiberglass is so easy to wash and wax and it makes for a tighter unit. Craig
 
johnrv4



Just to set the record straight on the construction of ultra-light weight trailers like the Trailite. Trailite trailers do not really have wall and roof framing as such. The walls and roof are made of exterior fiberglass and the interior walls laminated to styrofome insulation board, with aluminum added at the edges and around doors and windows. It is not a real frame in the way the the higher-end aluminum wood or aluminum framed trailers are built. There is really no comparison between the ultra-light trailers and the ones with real frames. I'm not saying they are bad, I owned a Trailite and had no problems with it, but they won't hold up to hard use like a heavier trailer.
 
There are various construction methods for the aluminum-framed units. Some aluminum framed units are spot welded only. Screwed framed side frames are one step better. Better yet is a glued and screwed aluminum framed units. An example would be a Cedar Creek made by Forest River. What’s the best you ask? Ask yourself how much use do I want from my camper. Will I be pulling it weekends only? Is this going to be a full time camper? What varying temperatures will I be camping in? Many factors come into play here. With research you’d find that JD Powers does not recognize aluminum-framed units as a full time camper. Insulation isn’t the only factor that keeps your camper warm or cool. What type of windows do you need? Dual Pane is a must for extreme temperatures. Look at your outside compartment doors, are they well insulated? If you were to go out and look at your high-end campers you’ll find that wood framing rules. Teton and Excel’s by Peterson Ind. are some of your highest end units starting at the mid $70K range. They are wood framed and gel-coated fiberglass sided and none of these are rated for –40 below. What it comes down to is what can one afford, how much am I going to use this. They are both good and they both have problems. If they make a problem free frame let me know, I want one. Wood rots, aluminum cracks. Take your choice because it’s going to happen over time and miles.



Komik
 
RV shows

It's an simple thing, but I would be sure to go to a good sized RV show and walk thru all the units you can. The difference between the cheap and expensive units will become obvious shortly.



I am thinking about a 5'vr and it really opened my eyes.
 
Been to the RV shows, and the differnce between a good and bad coach is only obvious to a trained eye. And IMHO, they all look alot alike. And alot of the times its what you can't see that is junk. At a certain level, they build them well, its simply a matter of what you can afford.



Kev
 
I have a Question Ken

Ken, are you saying that there isn't aluminum framing on a Trail-lite? I had watched a video-tape of the construction of a Trail-lite trailer, and if I recall correctly, the walls start out as a frame made up of aluminum square tubing welded together. Styrofoam is placed between the aluminum tubing, with the Filon exterior and interior panels bonded on using adhesive and pressure. If you look down the side of mine, when the light is right, you can see where each of the framing studs run vertically. They appear to be spaced approximately 30" apart(rough guess). The floor is constructed of the same size aluminum tubing (if memory serves me correctly). They advertise having a welded aluminum framed laminated roof, floor, and sidewalls with 1 1/2" Polystyrene block foam Insulation. I don't know how much worse or better this type of construction is versus the other aluminum framed travel-trailers, but they have a 5 year warranty on the structure. I like the design, but our current one is too small for us now that we are traveling with a 110lb dog.
 
Johnrv4:



Your description of the Trailite is correct. The difference is that on a trailer with a full frame, the framing members are about 12" or 16" appart. Trailite only puts a framing member at the perimeter and where there is an opening for a door or window. Trailite's construction is OK, but they can't do things like ducted A/C, 40" x 12' power slides, large storage tanks, etc. I had one, and didn't have any problems with it.
 
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