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Off Roading Aluminum or steel and size

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I am starting to think whitch material I want my rims made of and I cant decide. the steel are not as pretty generally and also heavier... ... however I would not feel as bad when I scratch them either I think it is inevitable. The aluminum will look better ride better, but when I scratch them I will feel horrable and probly get yelled at by the misses... ... ..... ya know?

also thinking 16. 5 or 17's for better brake cooling when towing butt cant decide the 16. 5's are cheaper for tires and rims themselves. but with the 17's i can get either 37"MTR's or 35" Open Country M/T's load range E. 16. 5's I'm pretty much limited to load range D

I don't know help!!!!

chainsaw
 
I've never had good luck with alum. , could never get them to hold a bead, always had leaks. If you decide to go with the 16. 5's, I've got a set of brand new never mounted 37" Goodyear military Hummer tires I'll give you a smokin deal on.
 
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If this is the truck you are gonna use for trail riding, I'd go steel or forged aluminum. That way if you hit a rock and bend the bead you can hammer it back. Also, starting from scratch I'd go with 17s. There are gonna be more and more sizes available as time goes by. They also have a safety bead unlike the 16. 5s, especially useful if you want to air down a little. Unless you are going to run 13. 5 or wider tires, stick with 8" wide wheels. That way your wheel edge is better protected.

Travis. .
 
f. boyle said:
Travis,

You run 35x12. 50R17? whith 4" lift and no rub on any thing? What backspacing do you have? Rims

Chainsaw



Nope, I'm running 16. 5x8 4"BS steel D-hole Pro-Comp wheels. My truck had 16. 5s on it when I bought it, so that is what I bought tires to fit. Like I said, if I had to start from scratch I'd get 17s or even 16s for the reasons listed above. The crazy thing is that I bought tires to fit the wheels it had and then I just bought the steel wheels to fit the tires I bought! :-laf My truck has leveling springs and the tires used to rub a bit with my 10" wheels at the rear of the front wheel opening when turned about 3/4 of the way under compression. No rub at full lock. I haven't checked to see if the 8"s are better, hoping so.

Travis. .
 
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If you could look and let me/us know that would be great. you think 16 or 17 would be better?I was thinking 17 just because I could get more air to the drums. and the mtr's and toyos are 17's. you said your getting 12" clearance on your pumpkins? what kind of wheeling you do? looks like I have a while to plan this build out I just got a new house!! So I get to find out how well I can get my BFG A/T's to do. Will the 235/85R16 fit on a 8" wheel?

Chainsaw
 
f. boyle said:
If you could look and let me/us know that would be great. you think 16 or 17 would be better?I was thinking 17 just because I could get more air to the drums. and the mtr's and toyos are 17's. you said your getting 12" clearance on your pumpkins? what kind of wheeling you do? looks like I have a while to plan this build out I just got a new house!! So I get to find out how well I can get my BFG A/T's to do. Will the 235/85R16 fit on a 8" wheel?

Chainsaw



It is up to you whether you go 16 or 17. I will most likely change wheel size when my current tires are worn out in a couple of years. I only have about 91/2" of clearence at my pumpkin and about 14 at the axle tubes. I really don't wheel my truck, it is my pavement pounder DD/tow rig. I have done some dirt road 2 tracking, nothing serious though. I don't think I'd put 235s on 8" wheels, they will look kinda goofy and your wheel lip will be very vulnerable. You did say in another post that you bought some 33s right? Get some cheap wheels for those and then you can switch back and forth if you want. You don't even need a lift to run 33s. I will try to flex my truck a bit this weekend and see what the rub situation looks like.

Travis. .
 
yeah but I thnk I might sell them and just go for 35's. they came with what I think are M/T Alcoa chalengers-16. 5x9. 75 might keep those!!!!!!! there awsome!!

Chainsaw
 
f. boyle said:
yeah but I thnk I might sell them and just go for 35's. they came with what I think are M/T Alcoa chalengers-16. 5x9. 75 might keep those!!!!!!! there awsome!!

Chainsaw



Yeah, 16. 5s are fine for the street, but if'n you want to air 'em down they'll come right off.

Travis. .
 
My tire dealer said its much harder to balance steel wheels than it is to do aluminum. Cast and forged aluminum tend to be round, most of the steel (including factory) are 'less than round'. I would like a set of steel wheels if I could find some that were round and easier to balance. [I have factory 17" alloys with a stock steel spare. The spare has a LOT more balancing weights on it. All 5 wearing 315 X17's BFG ATs. ]

Mickey
 
f. boyle said:
is it really a rim thing or a brand thing?

Chainsaw



It is a rim thing, 16. 5s are just like the 24. 5s on your tractor. The bead is tapered and doesn't have a safety type bead. When you loose air it is VERY easy to loose a bead, if not roll it off the rim. For offroading, stick to 16 or 17 because they will stay on better at low air pressure. Now, if you are gonna run beadlocks, well, that's a horse of a different color. And yes, aluminum wheels are alot more true than steel, but I like the heavy-duty-ness of steel. It's your truck, do what you like. I'm all for running what ya have, since I am a cheap bastid by nature, so go ahead and use whatever you have. I just hate to see someone spend a ton of money and then find out what they bought isn't good for what they're doing.

Travis. .
 
very true cant say as I want to invest a bunch of funds to learn all this crap. thats why I joined TDR to begine with!!!!!Today I found some almost new KC lights at a yard sale fore $10 bucks got them home and they're competition series 6x8's and man will they light it up not bad for $10 bucks I'm happy with the new lights!!!

Chainsaw
 
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