2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Am I nuts? Getting the truck ready for a haul.

[HHhuntitall]

Leaving in the morning? Are we kin?



I've had several, and still have several, '95-'98 models in service. Steering and good brakes are a must for power mods. As far as upgrading to the Chevy wheel cylinders, it's a noticeable upgrade, well worth the money, but not necessarily worth the time if you have good brakes already. If you're pulling a trailer all the time, loaded heavy, it might be a good idea..... I've done some of them when they needed repair, but the others work very well. Customer's trucks I've done have been happy with the upgrade, but I get no complaints about the factory brakes with new pads and turned drums.



Fluid changes, larger air intake and exhaust for the power mods, guages to monitor what's going on, and a set of tools to make repairs on the way, and you should be fine. MOST of my older trucks I'd trust to go anywhere... . just not the ones I haven't driven lately... . the hired hands don't have the love for them I do.



The mystery switch is a good mod, as it saves your transmission from higher temps. Just be careful, as under 1500rpm you can slip the Tq convertor clutches if you don't have a modified or upgraded pump in the transmission. The old 12v makes a lot of torque!! If you're gonna pull a hill over 1500, no problem, but when it lugs down, unlock it and downshift, then relock it. I used to slip the one in my '98 fairly regular... ... and don't forget to unlock coming into town!!! :-laf:



Are you changing the pump or valve body in the transmission? Are you upgrading the band bar/strap on the front band? Regular Tqconvertor or triple disk? Upgrading input shaft?



The 180 engines had smaller injectors, smaller delivery valves, but still are most respectable in power with minor mods, and the 98 I have is superb on mileage..... course, that's a 5spd, now... . Still pulls really well, and I didn't change the torque/cam plate in the pump, I just slid it all the way forward. EGTs can get a little high if you lug uphill under 1500/1600rpm, but other than that, it's a very nice truck..... with the 4door conversion and all. I usually use it either as a kid transport or travel truck, pulling my slant horse trailer with living quarters, which weighs in in the range of 10-15k loaded down with gear, horses, and supplies. I'll also put the wife in it with the kids when I need her to haul things for me, as it's lower mileage and reliable. She's pulled 15k+ with it several times hauling cows and tractors/equipment for me.

 

[Cosmo]

No, not leaving in the morning, but darned near close! I have to be on the road in the morning on the 23rd of this month.

The brakes work pretty well as is right now, but I haven't had a load on them yet. The shoes are relatively new and nothing was leaking when I went through them the other day. If/when I need to service the brakes again, I'll go with the Chevy ones.

Transmission is getting red clutches where available, an aluminum kickdown accumulator piston, Transgo diesel shift kit with pump and valve body modifications, and a Recon multi-disc torque converter rated to ~850 lb-ft. The overdrive drum and sun gear bushing are getting replaced due to wear, but otherwise the hard parts looked good. My trans guy hasn't done a ton of performance diesel stuff, but a fair bit of OE stuff while he was at Chrysler/Dodge. He didn't seem to think the band needed replacement. Is there an issue with the band or strut? The billet input shaft would have brought my total higher than I wanted to spend, so I skipped it. I'm not going to be beating the snot out of the truck, and it's a fair bit lighter than my 08 was - plus it's 2WD so there won't be as much grip OR screwing around, and my eventual goal for the thing is to swap it into a 92-96 Bronco.


All of the fluids will be changed out, PS and brake are the only fluids left in the truck aside from the new 75w-140 synthetic out back.

I do already have a huge AFE dry element filter and intake piping, and a 4" turbo back exhaust to help with breathing. The turbo itself and the first 6-8" of the downpipe are the restriction, being factory sized stuff.

AFC spring is installed - if I have to run the star wheel in then so be it.
"#5" fuel plate off eBay is installed, however when comparing it to the chart it definitely looks a LOT more like a #100 fuel plate.

As far as the out of control EGT situation goes, could I not push the fuel plate toward the back of the truck to reduce fuel and EGTs, until I have the opportunity to save enough to get my wife something nice and then save again for a turbo?

I would say, with the exception of the first 4500 miles (give or take) after I put it together, I'll be running empty commuting to/from work. Every now and then, I may be towing a trailer with tools, parts, and a race car in it, perhaps 9-10k.


Today the 60 lb valve springs and the 4k governor spring kit showed up. I'm debating pulling the head to install the springs versus trying to locate and borrow a compression/leakdown adapter. I already have the on-car spring compressor, but tracking down the adapter may take longer than just pulling the head while I've already got the whole front end torn apart.

When I get back to WA, I've got a set of ARP head studs waiting to go in. Hopefully it holds together until then.

 

[Nyoest]

What rear end ratio is the truck?

Honestly, the best thing to do power wise is leave it bone a ss stock. No problems no worries just drive. You can go a million miles like that. Of course it's not fun... ...

My vote for best (cheap) upgrade is genos cup holders. I don't know what the hel they were thinking with those coffee spilling sobs stuck outta the dash.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Sounds like you just about have it figured out. As for the EGTs, they're gonna be directly related to your right foot. A guage would go a long way to saving some critical parts.....

My vote for best (cheap) upgrade is genos cup holders. I don't know what the hel they were thinking with those coffee spilling sobs stuck outta the dash.

AUGH!!! That may very well be the truth!! I left the one from my '97 outside a truckstop in Denver several years ago. Bottled Cokes got me on the knee cap every time!! You'd think after 9,821 hits to the knee cap, you'd remember to not put that bottle there, but nooooooo!!!! I jerked the dirty obamanation plumb out of the dash and chunked it out the driver window onto the highway from the service road, skipping it across three lanes and I lost sight of it when it went down in the center median!!?!?!? I haven't had a single bottle hit me on the kneecap since(in that truck!!)!!! Nastly little hole in the dash now, though. Been gonna make a switch panel for that... ... ...

 

[Nyoest]

HHH that is just plain damn funny. I had a buddy that called DUI cup holders. He said the law ALWAYS knew what you're drinking.

I ended up putting my gauges there, I don't like pillar mounts much.

 

[Nyoest]

Cosmo you don't need to pull your head to do valve springs. Just pull the injector so you can locate tdc for each cyl. The piston is plenty close enough to the valve to hold it up to change springs. I'd reccomend getting the tork spring tool from genos. #5&6 get to be funnnnn with stiff springs and little keepers.

You won't need your 4k gsk until you get a bigger turbo. Over 3,200 my 96 just kind of noses over. Up till then it's fun.

 

[MLee]

The fun part is the keepers on 4, alittle fun, 5, more fun, 6, most fun--rustration sets in and your ready to throw your wrenches through the windshield. A good magnet works wonders with these little pieces.

 

[budnate]

one more for your plate brother... since your in this far and fairly opened up in there, you should consider changing out all the rubber fuel lines on the motor.



peace, B.

 

[Cosmo]

Ok, the only rubber fuel line that will be left is the return line, and that's getting replaced. 1/2" lines from the pump to the tank for the supply line.

Gauges are covered. Those were the first things installed.


The Tork tool looks decent, unfortunately I already bought the Lisle, and in trying to squeeze the 60 lb spring down it slipped off and launched my keepers across the shop. One I found on the windshield, the other is AWOL. NAPA can't get any until the middle of next week. I can't get the governor springs or the rest of the valve springs in until I get this fixed. Well, I suppose I could leave the rocker off and clamp the valve up.

 

[Cosmo]

You won't need your 4k gsk until you get a bigger turbo. Over 3,200 my 96 just kind of noses over. Up till then it's fun.

I figured as much. Actually, I figured the stock cam would leave it falling on its face above a certain RPM too.



I'd rather just do the job once, and the price is basically the same, so install the 4k now and it'll be there when I get around to adding more air.

What rear end ratio is the truck?



Honestly, the best thing to do power wise is leave it bone a ss stock. No problems no worries just drive. You can go a million miles like that. Of course it's not fun... ...



My vote for best (cheap) upgrade is genos cup holders. I don't know what the hel they were thinking with those coffee spilling sobs stuck outta the dash.

It's a 3. 54 with the factory limited slip.

I know it's not ideal for a heavy load, but it'll have to do. I don't really feel like spending the coin on gears.



Leaving it stock isn't in the cards... I just can't do it. The thing is possibly the slowest vehicle I've ever owned - including the 87 Subaru GL wagon with a 3 speed auto. Keep in mind I sold my 08 Cummins and while I'm not expecting 500 wheel horsepower or 1100 lb-ft, it needs a healthy dose of extra power.



I was planning on making my own cupholder for the trip - one that'll hold my 52 ounce trucker mug.

 

[Nyoest]

Ya it was 1:30 am, after work when I was changing my valve springs. Had no clue what I was in for. Oh yah, my truck was the ONLY transpo! I ended up using a long flat bar with a hole drilled for a rocker tower bolt pressing a whittled down pipe coupler for #5 & 6. Fun times.

Pm me your addy I'll mail ya some extra keepers. We have plenty left from teenager heads.

Be cautious when you fiddle with the fuel plate. Those tall gears and heavy trailer are going to be giving your pyro a work out.

You think the same as me on the mods. I don't like doing things twice so I tried to cover the bases the first go round. The afc kit is muy bueno. That and your fresh trans you'll feel like you have a new truck.

Just wait for that first time you run er up about 3,500 full tilt. You will be hooked. Doesn't matter what you do to the HPCR engines, it's nothing like breathing life into a 12v.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Well stated, Nyoest! Nothing like it.



One thing I didn't think of earlier. Timing. Most the '98 trucks I've fooled with have had ridiculously slow timing. They wouldn't pull a squat under your chair on bottom end. The autos may not be that noticeable, as my 98 4 door runs really well..... not sure what the deal is. A pump guy at Cummins Southern plains said they retarded the timing that year to reduce smoke and NOX emissions on bottom end... ... Advancing the timing has made a world of difference, as most will testify. But yours being an auto, it might not matter either way, as most your rpms will be higher when it downshifts and moves out..... You'll find out, I guess.

 

[Cosmo]

I would like to bump my timing up to 15-16 degrees, as I understand factory was around 13... and I gather it makes a fair difference, I just haven't bothered to figure out how to adjust it. I suppose it's probably not all that hard.

Thanks for the offer on the keepers, I'm going to try and source some locally tomorrow.

 

[Nyoest]

The more you increase your timing the more you reduce your take off torque. Might not be an issue with the auto.

The sweet spot will depend on your cruise rpm and set up of Trans and convertor.

I set mine at 15. 5 for my cruise rpm. I wish it was a bit lower to have some more pull down low since I put on the 19. 5s.

 

[budnate]

just doing timing to 15. 5 really wakes a 12v up, with the few other things your doing it will be just right for a nice driver and puller.

 

[Cosmo]

Valve springs and guide seals are in. Tomorrow for the governor springs.

 

[Nyoest]

Valve springs and guide seals are in. Tomorrow for the governor springs.

Now your cookin.



I know your no dummy but I have to say this for my piece of mind. Make damn sure to pull all shims out when doing the gsk. I had a buddy that did his own gsk and it had an erratic idle. Of course it was up to me to figure out what he had done. A shim on one side and none on the other does weird things... ... ...

 

[Cosmo]

I kept sending my magnet down until it stopped bringing bits up.

I've gotta say, it seemed like a daunting task to get all this done, but it really wasn't that hard.

Tomorrow I'm (hopefully) installing new brass freeze plugs and putting the front end back together.

 

[Cosmo]

With the exception of the valve body, the trans is done. I got my temp sender installed in the pan and the extension housing put back on the case, finally.

The freeze plugs have been killing me. I was told they were 2. 25", so I ordered 2. 25" brass freeze plugs from the local NAPA. He had to get them out of Georgia. They couldn't find them and didn't tell him for a couple of days, then he ordered them out of South Carolina. They hadn't shown up for several days too, but while I was in the store a marine mechanic said they were a metric plug and the 2. 25" wouldn't work, and that nobody uses brass.

So he called Dodge (where I get an employee discount, mind you) and they could get them this coming Thursday. Forget it. I called the local Cummins shop with my serial number and they'll have them Monday afternoon. Steel, but apparently that's fine so long as the coolant is good and I don't overheat it. One of my factory plugs had a pinhole in it, and another crumbled as I popped it out, so I know the original ones were done, which means apparently someone in the last 14 years ran too much straight water in it.

My air bags came in, and I had to cut the mounting brackets to clear the welded in ~1" plate steel that the gooseneck ball is mounted to. Great.

Airbags and transmission should be installed Monday, and I should have the truck on the ground and mobile again Tuesday. It's been what, over two weeks since it ran? I HOPE it runs like a raped ape.

 

[Cosmo]

Freeze plugs went in this morning, air bags went in this afternoon. Still need to put the trans back in after finishing the shift kit in the valve body. I'm going to get new heater hoses while I've got it all apart.