I just thought i would give my opinon on oil. there is two very important thing about oil. the first thing is CHANGE IT!!! the next thing is use DA oil. now i know all of you have not heard of it because it is the best kept secret in the oil industry. it is made by a company in Indiana it is made for all diesels on and off road. i worked at Cat for 5 years and it was the best oil ive ever seen. the give you FREE oil sampling also. i live on a 3000 acre farm and use it in all of my tractors and trucks. it is made as a long drain oil up to 70,000 miles!!! that is on the far side but it is possible. you take samples every 4000 miles or 150 hours and send them in they send you a report in about a week telling you the results. if there is a problem they call you and tell you to shut it down. as far as using it in your truck my dad runs it in his 95 dodge wich has 395,000 on it an he changes it every 15,000 his oil still is clean to this day. if any one is interrested let me know and i will get you some info. if you dont belive me ask your Shell ,mobile. or any other oil rep. and asy him if his oil is better than DA OIL!! i bet he lower his head and says no
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Amsoil 3000 Diesel Oil
- Thread starter StrokeThis
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- Status
sory i could not find a site.
DA LUBRICANT CO INC.
1340 W. 29TH STREET
INDINAPOLIS, IN 46208
317 923 5321
CALL AND THEY WILL SEND YOU ALL KIND OF INFO.
THEY ONLY WAY IS TO BUY IT IS BULK. BUT YOU HAVE TO TELL THEM YOU A BUSSINES OR FARM AND THEY WILL STILL TAKE CARE OF YOU. MY DAD BUYS IT 1 1/2 OR TWO GALLON JUGS AND I THINK 5 AT A TIME. THEY UPS IT TO YOUR HOUSE. I BUY IT BULK AND THEY DELIVER IT AND PUT IT IN MY TANK. IT REALY IS NOT TO EXPENSIVE.
DA LUBRICANT CO INC.
1340 W. 29TH STREET
INDINAPOLIS, IN 46208
317 923 5321
CALL AND THEY WILL SEND YOU ALL KIND OF INFO.
THEY ONLY WAY IS TO BUY IT IS BULK. BUT YOU HAVE TO TELL THEM YOU A BUSSINES OR FARM AND THEY WILL STILL TAKE CARE OF YOU. MY DAD BUYS IT 1 1/2 OR TWO GALLON JUGS AND I THINK 5 AT A TIME. THEY UPS IT TO YOUR HOUSE. I BUY IT BULK AND THEY DELIVER IT AND PUT IT IN MY TANK. IT REALY IS NOT TO EXPENSIVE.
Brian, My head is held up high, and I have no problem with the fact that Lubrication Engineers oil is better than the DA product. I have a feeling that there are a few more oil companies on the TDR that can hold their heads up just like LE can. So Brian, go ahead make my day.
Sincerely, Kevin Dinwiddie
Sincerely, Kevin Dinwiddie
Hey Vaughn!!! Over 5 bucks a quart for Delvac 1... !?!?!?! Geesh, you sure u investigated everywhere for the stuff? About a year ago I was quoted under 4 bucks quart by the dealer here long as I bought in bulk!
Me, well, I get Delo at . 80 per quart at an "employees sale" at a local store once a year... ... and use filters from Genos.
Regards,
Dave
(maybe the same maggots that are driving up fuel prices have driven up lube prices. . ?!?!?! NUKE EM ALL!!!!
Me, well, I get Delo at . 80 per quart at an "employees sale" at a local store once a year... ... and use filters from Genos.
Regards,
Dave
(maybe the same maggots that are driving up fuel prices have driven up lube prices. . ?!?!?! NUKE EM ALL!!!!
Vaughn MacKenzie
TDR MEMBER
Yup, the darned stuff goes for $19. 48 a gallon, plus tax. Mobil was only able to provide me with one distributor in my area, and that's where I get it. I suppose with some digging and the right contacts, I could find a cheaper source.
It is true that unless you do bypass filtration and leave that stuff in a long time, it's a lot more expensive. But like I said, I'm basically "experimenting" right now, and staying with standard filtration for awhile. Another thing, Blackstone Labs commented "your 5. 9L Cummins is wearing as good as any we've analyzed oil from this month" on my last analysis, so I'm inclined to stick with Delvac 1.
Vaughn
It is true that unless you do bypass filtration and leave that stuff in a long time, it's a lot more expensive. But like I said, I'm basically "experimenting" right now, and staying with standard filtration for awhile. Another thing, Blackstone Labs commented "your 5. 9L Cummins is wearing as good as any we've analyzed oil from this month" on my last analysis, so I'm inclined to stick with Delvac 1.
Vaughn
Hi Guys!
When AMSOIL changes the parameters on some of the oils it tests, are they making the tests easier or more severe? Yup, more severe, and in the case of the 20W-50 racing oil a whole lot more severe. All oil companies know very well what the industry standard tests are, and formulate their oils to pass them with flying colors. Some companies have sold products that passed the "normal" tests just fine, but when pushed past that point, went to heck in a handbasket in a hurry. The oil Oldsmobile Series III test comes to mind. In it, oils were installed in a V-8 gasser, had the oil temp stablised at 300 deg F for 64 hours. The oil had to thicken less than 300% in order to pass. Many would be 70 to 150% thicker after 64 hours, but when the test was doubled, would reach nearly 5000% thicker! AMSOIL used to pass the 64 hour test at 9% and the 128 hour test at 28%. Now, the old Oldsmobile Series III test has been obsoleate for many years now, but the lesson is the same. Isn't it nice to know that your oil has been formulated to standards much higher than simply adequate?
That's the view from here.
Rudy
When AMSOIL changes the parameters on some of the oils it tests, are they making the tests easier or more severe? Yup, more severe, and in the case of the 20W-50 racing oil a whole lot more severe. All oil companies know very well what the industry standard tests are, and formulate their oils to pass them with flying colors. Some companies have sold products that passed the "normal" tests just fine, but when pushed past that point, went to heck in a handbasket in a hurry. The oil Oldsmobile Series III test comes to mind. In it, oils were installed in a V-8 gasser, had the oil temp stablised at 300 deg F for 64 hours. The oil had to thicken less than 300% in order to pass. Many would be 70 to 150% thicker after 64 hours, but when the test was doubled, would reach nearly 5000% thicker! AMSOIL used to pass the 64 hour test at 9% and the 128 hour test at 28%. Now, the old Oldsmobile Series III test has been obsoleate for many years now, but the lesson is the same. Isn't it nice to know that your oil has been formulated to standards much higher than simply adequate?
That's the view from here.
Rudy
Mr Freeze,
As I see it you are talking about two different things. First it sounds like your talking about the 4-ball test parameters and how Amsoil changes the parameters to make it more severe. The test that you are talking about when the 20w50 looked good is against oils that have little anti-wear, the 4-ball test was designed to look at the anti-wear additives of gear oils not engine oils. Because of the other oils not having much anti-wear, of course Amsoil would look better. However in the test where Amsoil tested their 5w30 against other oils. The other oils were thicker. The modified test parameters of higher speeds would benefit lighter vis oils thus making Amsoil look better again. Another thing that has to address is the reason for the ASTM test parameters. The ASTM set those parameters because of the accuracy of the test. It is much more accurate at the standard parameters. Amsoil should have tested motor oil on the Falex pin and vee block tester. This Falex test was designed to scrutinize engine oils with much more accuracy than the 4-ball test. It would also make more sence to test the same vis oils like 15w40 to 15w40 then we would have good info to look at.
Second, you are talking about an oxidation test of many years ago, that has been replaced with better tests that we have today. The LE engine oil was much better than the oils that you mentioned that had 70 to 150% increase in Vis on the old oxidation test, and Less than 60% on todays more demanding test macnines. Amsoil excluded most of the oils tested on the more modern test machines had way over 300% viscosity increase. Amsoil still did very well.
Sincerely, Kevin
As I see it you are talking about two different things. First it sounds like your talking about the 4-ball test parameters and how Amsoil changes the parameters to make it more severe. The test that you are talking about when the 20w50 looked good is against oils that have little anti-wear, the 4-ball test was designed to look at the anti-wear additives of gear oils not engine oils. Because of the other oils not having much anti-wear, of course Amsoil would look better. However in the test where Amsoil tested their 5w30 against other oils. The other oils were thicker. The modified test parameters of higher speeds would benefit lighter vis oils thus making Amsoil look better again. Another thing that has to address is the reason for the ASTM test parameters. The ASTM set those parameters because of the accuracy of the test. It is much more accurate at the standard parameters. Amsoil should have tested motor oil on the Falex pin and vee block tester. This Falex test was designed to scrutinize engine oils with much more accuracy than the 4-ball test. It would also make more sence to test the same vis oils like 15w40 to 15w40 then we would have good info to look at.
Second, you are talking about an oxidation test of many years ago, that has been replaced with better tests that we have today. The LE engine oil was much better than the oils that you mentioned that had 70 to 150% increase in Vis on the old oxidation test, and Less than 60% on todays more demanding test macnines. Amsoil excluded most of the oils tested on the more modern test machines had way over 300% viscosity increase. Amsoil still did very well.
Sincerely, Kevin
#ad#ad#ad#adwell, guys - I think I am catching on. The way it sounds Mr. Freeze is for Amzoil and Oilman is against Amzoil. But anyway, I was going tomorrow to a Amzoil guy and get some rear end lube - series 2000 75/90 weight. Now after I am reading all this crap that I am reading I don't know what to do now! If I ask Mr. Freeze, he'll say go for it. If I ask Oilman, he'll say don't you dare do that. But I guess, either oil should be a good choice. It's just right now I don't know where I can go and drive 20 miles and get LE oil. Maybe I should hold off about getting any oil until I'm more convinced on which one is the best one for my differentials on my new diesel that I haven't got yet. Ingestation period 2 weeks. Thanks guys, I just love reading your comments!
#ad#ad#adThis thread has been most enlighting and all sides are making valid points as to their personnal choices,scientific data, BUT none of you can disagree with the proposition that changed every 3,000 miles and a oil filter change that ANY quality oil will protect these motors, example Shell Rotella T 15W40 will keep the engine in top shape when compared to any of these oils. Either buy an expensive oil and don't change very often or buy conventional oil and change it alot, there is no difference!!
Gee
#ad
Ain't it great to be an American#ad
#ad
Regards Pete
Gee
#adAin't it great to be an American
#ad#adRegards Pete
Pete,
There is a one main thing you forgot. The synthetics on the market all protect to a greater degree in the extremes.
One of the extremes is the extremes in temp. Running a turbo, the oil is exposed to high temps like no where else in the motor including the next hottest part, the Rod Journals. Even when it comes to shutdown, where temps will be lower if you're doing it right, it gives additional protection against cookoff. At low temps synthetics flow better, so startup starvation is less. Synthethics have a high affinity for metal and hot surfaces both, so more oil film is left on the surfaces at shutdown, further protecting for the next start up.
This is not even dealing the extremes of shear strength, and wear protection.
And for the tree huggers out there, longer drain intervals means less old oil to deal with.
Yes you are right, you probably can "get by" with only dinosaur belly stuff, but why would one want to. These trucks are our babies, and we pay a lot for them, why not give them the best TLC we can. If you're gonna pinch literally pennies, then why not buy a older used truck, because the dollars lost by buying a new truck is more than what you can save with cheap oil, not to mention the dollar loss for Bombing.
I am not getting "on you", I just chose your post to illustrate some points. You are not the only one that has said that the Dino stuff will work fine, so why pay more.
You are right, It is wonderful to have free choice.
Cheers.
------------------
Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.
NRA member
There is a one main thing you forgot. The synthetics on the market all protect to a greater degree in the extremes.
One of the extremes is the extremes in temp. Running a turbo, the oil is exposed to high temps like no where else in the motor including the next hottest part, the Rod Journals. Even when it comes to shutdown, where temps will be lower if you're doing it right, it gives additional protection against cookoff. At low temps synthetics flow better, so startup starvation is less. Synthethics have a high affinity for metal and hot surfaces both, so more oil film is left on the surfaces at shutdown, further protecting for the next start up.
This is not even dealing the extremes of shear strength, and wear protection.
And for the tree huggers out there, longer drain intervals means less old oil to deal with.
Yes you are right, you probably can "get by" with only dinosaur belly stuff, but why would one want to. These trucks are our babies, and we pay a lot for them, why not give them the best TLC we can. If you're gonna pinch literally pennies, then why not buy a older used truck, because the dollars lost by buying a new truck is more than what you can save with cheap oil, not to mention the dollar loss for Bombing.
I am not getting "on you", I just chose your post to illustrate some points. You are not the only one that has said that the Dino stuff will work fine, so why pay more.
You are right, It is wonderful to have free choice.
Cheers.
------------------
Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.
NRA member
Markcuda,
Oil Man is not against Amsoil, He's just for LE oil. Looking at all the Lab tests and field test for the last 21 years I have come to the conclusion that LE oil is better than Amsoil most of the time. I do however have respect for Amsoil because they are better than most of the oils out there.
Markcuda, LE will ship direct to you, you wont have to go 20 miles out of your way. Just e-mail me as to your location or any other info you wish and I will help you.
Sincerely, Kevin
Oil Man is not against Amsoil, He's just for LE oil. Looking at all the Lab tests and field test for the last 21 years I have come to the conclusion that LE oil is better than Amsoil most of the time. I do however have respect for Amsoil because they are better than most of the oils out there.
Markcuda, LE will ship direct to you, you wont have to go 20 miles out of your way. Just e-mail me as to your location or any other info you wish and I will help you.
Sincerely, Kevin
Pete,
You're right to a point. Changing your Rotella 15w40 oil at 3000 miles will be ok. Keep in mind that every oil has its own ability to lubricate (coefficient of friction). Even if you change your oil at 3000 mile intervals say with Rotella-T you will have more wear than if you were to change it at 3000 miles with LE or Amsoil or any other oil with a lower coefficient of friction.
Sincerely, Kevin
You're right to a point. Changing your Rotella 15w40 oil at 3000 miles will be ok. Keep in mind that every oil has its own ability to lubricate (coefficient of friction). Even if you change your oil at 3000 mile intervals say with Rotella-T you will have more wear than if you were to change it at 3000 miles with LE or Amsoil or any other oil with a lower coefficient of friction.
Sincerely, Kevin
Ghillie,
What you have done is make general statments and statements that are not always true.
First, the synthetics do work at a lower temp then petro oils.
Second, LE petro oil 8800 15w40 maintaind it's coefficient of friction even at 572 deg F. which is as high as the test goes. I think that there must me other petro oils out there that will come close to this aslo.
Third, You say "synthetics have a high affinity for metal and hot surfaces both" Some do and so do some petro oils. This has a lot to do with the additives in the oils and not just the base type
When you talk about things in general statements it puts the companies that build a better product in the same pit as the low quality minumum spect oils, and that is just not true. If this thinking were true then Amsoil would be in the same pit as all the other synthetics that build a so so oil and we all know that is not true, right!
Sonething to think about. Sincerely Kevin
What you have done is make general statments and statements that are not always true.
First, the synthetics do work at a lower temp then petro oils.
Second, LE petro oil 8800 15w40 maintaind it's coefficient of friction even at 572 deg F. which is as high as the test goes. I think that there must me other petro oils out there that will come close to this aslo.
Third, You say "synthetics have a high affinity for metal and hot surfaces both" Some do and so do some petro oils. This has a lot to do with the additives in the oils and not just the base type
When you talk about things in general statements it puts the companies that build a better product in the same pit as the low quality minumum spect oils, and that is just not true. If this thinking were true then Amsoil would be in the same pit as all the other synthetics that build a so so oil and we all know that is not true, right!
Sonething to think about. Sincerely Kevin
OK, I'll stick my neck out here...
I consider myself a fairly technical person, but trying to absorb this entire posting has me dizzy.
I have a 99 with 12K miles.
I have followed DC's advice to this point.
I live in an environment where -20 during the winter is not considered extreme nor abnormal weather.
The truck does not have a garage to protect it from the environment.
The truck spends most of it's life on dirt roads, with about one day a month on the interstate.
My trips are normally short and often the truck hardly has time to get fully warmed up.
I am heading down the BOMB path so expect that to put extra 'strain' on the engine.
------------
What oil should I run?
How often should I change it?
Should I use the bypass filter?
Should I use the dual remote filters?
------------
Thx#ad
I consider myself a fairly technical person, but trying to absorb this entire posting has me dizzy.
I have a 99 with 12K miles.
I have followed DC's advice to this point.
I live in an environment where -20 during the winter is not considered extreme nor abnormal weather.
The truck does not have a garage to protect it from the environment.
The truck spends most of it's life on dirt roads, with about one day a month on the interstate.
My trips are normally short and often the truck hardly has time to get fully warmed up.
I am heading down the BOMB path so expect that to put extra 'strain' on the engine.
------------
What oil should I run?
How often should I change it?
Should I use the bypass filter?
Should I use the dual remote filters?
------------
Thx
#adOil Man,
Yes I speak in general terms for two reasons. One, I am not a lubrication engineer nor a lubrication tech. I am a guy that likes to research the performance of different lubricants, and develop an opinion on what I think is good or bad based on the available data. That is why I have said what I said about Amsoil playing with numbers. I truly believe Amsoil is one of the best oils on the market for the money, if not the best. And even though they play with the numbers, at least they have the cajones to put up or shut up.
Secondly, I speak in general terms because generally synthetics out perform petroleum stuff. Yes you can make a petroleum out perform a synthetic in one area or another, but as a complete package the worst of the synthetics are superior to the best of the petroleum oils.
Does LE have any data where they have put their oils, engine, gear, grease, etc. , up against the other big name oil companies to include Amsoil, and the test was done by an independant lab. If not, all the rest is talk. I can say my oil that I make in my garage will do this or do that, but independant testing gives credibility.
I can tell you this if LE, Mobil 1, Redline, or any other oil is proven to out perform Amsoil, I will quit using Amsoil immediately and use that product. But until then, I will use Amsoil, cause they is the best.
------------------
Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.
NRA member
Yes I speak in general terms for two reasons. One, I am not a lubrication engineer nor a lubrication tech. I am a guy that likes to research the performance of different lubricants, and develop an opinion on what I think is good or bad based on the available data. That is why I have said what I said about Amsoil playing with numbers. I truly believe Amsoil is one of the best oils on the market for the money, if not the best. And even though they play with the numbers, at least they have the cajones to put up or shut up.
Secondly, I speak in general terms because generally synthetics out perform petroleum stuff. Yes you can make a petroleum out perform a synthetic in one area or another, but as a complete package the worst of the synthetics are superior to the best of the petroleum oils.
Does LE have any data where they have put their oils, engine, gear, grease, etc. , up against the other big name oil companies to include Amsoil, and the test was done by an independant lab. If not, all the rest is talk. I can say my oil that I make in my garage will do this or do that, but independant testing gives credibility.
I can tell you this if LE, Mobil 1, Redline, or any other oil is proven to out perform Amsoil, I will quit using Amsoil immediately and use that product. But until then, I will use Amsoil, cause they is the best.
------------------
Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.
NRA member
Ghillie,
What research have you done on LE. Sounds like not much. I understand you are a detective. One would hope you would research things better.
You say, "the worst of syn are better than the best of petro" JUST NOT TRUE AT ALL and I think you know it, if you don't know that you have a lot to learn about oils.
Yes a lot has been published on the TDR already about tests with LE and others. Investagate that.
I realy din't think any testing would open up your mind. It seems that your mind is already made up. Do you as a detective, investigate with a closed mind? I DON'T THINK SO. So why do you have a closed mind about oil?
Sincerely, Kevin
What research have you done on LE. Sounds like not much. I understand you are a detective. One would hope you would research things better.
You say, "the worst of syn are better than the best of petro" JUST NOT TRUE AT ALL and I think you know it, if you don't know that you have a lot to learn about oils.
Yes a lot has been published on the TDR already about tests with LE and others. Investagate that.
I realy din't think any testing would open up your mind. It seems that your mind is already made up. Do you as a detective, investigate with a closed mind? I DON'T THINK SO. So why do you have a closed mind about oil?
Sincerely, Kevin
Oil man,
Why have you chosen to get hostile and use attacking statements. I have been polite to you, and not made such disparaging remarks about you, although I could have.
You are the LE guy, why don't you display actual documents from LE here in a post. Not stuff you have copied by hand. Or if you would like you can email me the data. I don't want to see what LE has far as their handouts, I want to see independant testing, perferably against others, but if not, a comprehensive test of the oils. I don't want to see just one thing, ie. 4-ball wear test, etc.
If you think this stuff is so great then get the info out. Like I said I could dream up figures and write them here. If LE is as hot as you say it is, I will buy it. But all I have seen from you so far is talk.
You being an inside man for LE could get all of us the info on their products much sooner than we can. I know a lot of other people here would buy LE if you could PROVE that it is superior to some of the other favorite oils here.
Finally, don't take cheap shots, because next time I might not be so nice.
#ad
Henry
------------------
Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.
NRA member
[This message has been edited by ghillie (edited 02-27-2000). ]
Why have you chosen to get hostile and use attacking statements. I have been polite to you, and not made such disparaging remarks about you, although I could have.
You are the LE guy, why don't you display actual documents from LE here in a post. Not stuff you have copied by hand. Or if you would like you can email me the data. I don't want to see what LE has far as their handouts, I want to see independant testing, perferably against others, but if not, a comprehensive test of the oils. I don't want to see just one thing, ie. 4-ball wear test, etc.
If you think this stuff is so great then get the info out. Like I said I could dream up figures and write them here. If LE is as hot as you say it is, I will buy it. But all I have seen from you so far is talk.
You being an inside man for LE could get all of us the info on their products much sooner than we can. I know a lot of other people here would buy LE if you could PROVE that it is superior to some of the other favorite oils here.
Finally, don't take cheap shots, because next time I might not be so nice.
#adHenry
------------------
Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.
NRA member
[This message has been edited by ghillie (edited 02-27-2000). ]
amsoilman
Staff Alumni
Hello to the TDR group,
To those who have asked if my tongue was tied on this subject, I have had a difficult time, as my hard drive crashed!! I have been several days trying to get the computer going again, but finaly have most of it working.
Now to address the Amsoil series 3000 5W-30 engine oil.
The 4-ball wear method of testing the wear preventative characteristics of lubricating fluids, (ASTM D4172B is just that-- a method for testing fluid for wear prevention. In fact if you go to the ASTM site, you will see it stated as"Designation D 4172 Standard Test Method for wear Prevention Characteristics of Lubricating Fluid. (Four-Ball Method)
The tests of the oils listed on the back of each container of series 3000 5W-30 engine oil,as tested are true as stated! The tests were done by the Falex Corporation, the manufacturer of the test equipment! Amsoil Inc. DID NOT DO THE TESTING!
Now if the data on the back of each of these containers were false, one would think that one of these oil manufactures listed, would challenge the data listed. So far this has NOT happened! The only one that seems to be challenging this is Kevin Dinwiddie of LE Lubrication, a very small player in the oil industry just like Amsoil is! Perhaps even smaller, as Amsoil has many synthetic products including products for Automotive use as well as Industrial products, which I might add are tested differently than Automotive lubricants. Now I must ask this question, Kevin. Why has your Company not taken Amsoil to court over this? Can your Company prove Amsoil is advertising falsely?
My . 02 worth
Wayne
amsilman
------------------
94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil. Optima "Red Top" batteries.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan, Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.
To those who have asked if my tongue was tied on this subject, I have had a difficult time, as my hard drive crashed!! I have been several days trying to get the computer going again, but finaly have most of it working.
Now to address the Amsoil series 3000 5W-30 engine oil.
The 4-ball wear method of testing the wear preventative characteristics of lubricating fluids, (ASTM D4172B is just that-- a method for testing fluid for wear prevention. In fact if you go to the ASTM site, you will see it stated as"Designation D 4172 Standard Test Method for wear Prevention Characteristics of Lubricating Fluid. (Four-Ball Method)
The tests of the oils listed on the back of each container of series 3000 5W-30 engine oil,as tested are true as stated! The tests were done by the Falex Corporation, the manufacturer of the test equipment! Amsoil Inc. DID NOT DO THE TESTING!
Now if the data on the back of each of these containers were false, one would think that one of these oil manufactures listed, would challenge the data listed. So far this has NOT happened! The only one that seems to be challenging this is Kevin Dinwiddie of LE Lubrication, a very small player in the oil industry just like Amsoil is! Perhaps even smaller, as Amsoil has many synthetic products including products for Automotive use as well as Industrial products, which I might add are tested differently than Automotive lubricants. Now I must ask this question, Kevin. Why has your Company not taken Amsoil to court over this? Can your Company prove Amsoil is advertising falsely?
My . 02 worth
Wayne
amsilman
------------------
94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil. Optima "Red Top" batteries.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan, Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.
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