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Amsoil BMK-15ea dual filter kit

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Yes I would say its bleeding off... But not pressure as pressure is gone as soon as the pump stops. But the oil from the lines drains back to the pan, which is why your supposed to wait 15 minutes before checking your oil after you shut the truck off...

The style pump that the oil pump is is more effective as rpms increase, meaning you cant slow it to 70 rpms and get 1/10 the flow as 700 rpms... It doesn't produce the suction needed.
Yeah I didn't really say that correctly. Yes the pressure should drop to zero as soon as the pump stops, unless there are trapped air pockets in the system, and even then the pressure would drop very quickly. I was trying to show that there should have been no reason for the gauge to indicate pressure. I assume the most everything downstream of the filter head drains back into the pan, but I don't see that as much more then a quart or two. If that is correct and the filter and pump stay primed then the passages should fill up quickly and the pressure should start to rise once the main passages are full.

Since the pump is a positive displacement type the only thing that changes how much volume it puts out per revolution is any internal leakage (or air or aerated fluid). This leakage rate will depend on how tight the tolerances are in the pump, the pressure difference between the pump inlet and outlet and the viscosity of the liquid being pumped. That being the case, at startup with cool, relatively thick oil and little or no pressure on the pump's discharge I would assume the internal leakage is not that bad, though maybe thats not a valid assumption. Do you have a pump curve (graph of the pump flow rate) or other pump output data for our oil pumps?
 
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I too bought the BMK 25 dual remote bypass for my 06 and had the same problem with no oil pressure at start up. . I have spent many hours trying to get it right and talking to a amsoil representitive. Its just not going to work the way it should on our trucks. . I cant believe a company like amsoil that deals with nothing but oil cant get it right with these dual remote kits. . At least they took it back and gave me a refund for it and now im running a single bypass with no problems... Finally! Amsoil reputation with me has definitly gone down the tubes... Not buying anymore parts from them... Maybe just motor oil thats it. . I can just imagine what was going on with my motor when it had no oil pressure for a few seconds when i would start it. They need to pull that product of the shelves before they screw up more trucks and waste more peoples time and money.
 
Holly over temp dude:eek: is that measured in degrees:confused::confused: Where'd you install the sending unit?



That was running twin turbo’s pulling 15k+ stop and go rush hour traffic, I could peg the gage easily, empty truck only 240/280, when running twins ,cylinder temps are much higher, unless running low compression pistons, add another huffer and oil temps rise. . EGTS are just a touch tone in some cases, how many owners have burn holes running under 1k,I have two EGT gauges, Post and Pre, When the Pre is 1300 and the Post is 1100 I back off, when Pre is 1300 and Post is 8/900 I level off. If pulling Pre 1400 and Post 900 and climbing I level off, the closer Pre and Post get means cylinder temps are raising $$$$$$. If you build with ceramic pistons,cams, plenum ,exhaust etc, you need to develop your own scale, When running factory Pistons this works well and should keep your $$ in your wallet. Sorry for getting off topic back to the OP.

On note My 03 is extremely modded with $$$, One comment at the drags from a on looker ( that truck is going to win the most wireloom award)
 
TWest, I'm running twins, pulling a 15k 5th wheel, lots of mods also. I never see oil temps over 215 and that’s only when pulling hard up a mountain and then only for a very short period. I also have 2 EGT's probes. Both mounted in the exhaust manifold. 1 is measuring the average of 4, 5 & 6 and the other is right on #6 as this is the hot piston. Oil gauge sending unit is mounted in the oil filter housing. I've also noticed that my oil temp and water temp run very close. Where is your sending unit installed? Also, why do you have an EGT gauge after the turbo? Not sure what that’s telling you????
 
Great picture Cliffman, thanks! I count 36 teeth on the crank gear, 23 on the idler and 24 on the pump. 36/23 x 23/24 = 1. 5 rotations of the oil pump for every crankshaft rotation. Now we know the oil pump’s rpm relative to engine rpm and could use that along with the oil pump’s displacement to calculate the theoretical maximum flow the pump could do at idle and during cranking. Now if I could only remember where I saw the oil pump’s displacement spec... ... .



I did see another spec of 20. 5 gpm at 4200 rpm. :eek: That 4200 must be the pump's rpm.



You wouldn’t happen to have a couple pictures showing where the oil cooler/filter head gets mounted to the block? Apparently over the years the 75 psi relief valve has been dumped back to the pump or the sump. Do you know which way the third gen motors do it? The service manual only mentions it one time and says its back to the pump. Have you ever installed an oil pump? If so is that thin cover plate on the back metal or some kind of polymer or plastic? Does the back of the oil pump seal air tight to the block?
 
Check gauges light on this morning - code P0524 - Nice. Dual remote system will be removed until I get my pressure gauge and do some testing.
 
Anywhere between 25 to 45 seconds with no oil pressure. Every morning or when I would let the truck sit for a while.

Do you have a mech gauge to back that up? I just wonder if the ECM see's no oil pressure if it has to see it for so many seconds before it will tell you its good??? It only took me 3-5 seconds to fill my full flow and bypass after an oil change and show pressure on my mech gauge (sender by the OE switch)
 
It's my understanding, there can be up to 4 seconds before the "switch" activates. I can't recall where I read that however.
 
TWest, I'm running twins, pulling a 15k 5th wheel, lots of mods also. I never see oil temps over 215 and that’s only when pulling hard up a mountain and then only for a very short period. I also have 2 EGT's probes. Both mounted in the exhaust manifold. 1 is measuring the average of 4, 5 & 6 and the other is right on #6 as this is the hot piston. Oil gauge sending unit is mounted in the oil filter housing. I've also noticed that my oil temp and water temp run very close. Where is your sending unit installed? Also, why do you have an EGT gauge after the turbo? Not sure what that’s telling you????







At present its mounted in the Port right on top of the filter, the post gage will start to raise under extreme pulls, the pre gage may sit at 1300 and not move but the post gage will climb, The volume of hot gases are increasing. Under certain conditions I have seen my post rise and my pre drop.
 
Do you have a mech gauge to back that up? I just wonder if the ECM see's no oil pressure if it has to see it for so many seconds before it will tell you its good??? It only took me 3-5 seconds to fill my full flow and bypass after an oil change and show pressure on my mech gauge (sender by the OE switch)
It took 31 seconds for my 05 to sound the alarm. I tried uploading a video my son took onto the TDR tv but it for some reason during the upload it gives an error message and stops. The 6 psi switch is normally closed to ground. If you disconnect the switch and jumper the connector to ground it will simulate no oil pressure. The idiot gauge climbs normally and shows pressure until shortly after the check gauges light comes on when it drops to zero. If you unground the connector the check gauges light goes out and the idiot gauge goes up over 40. When grounded and ungrounded to simulate fluctuating pressure it appears to take 31 seconds of continuous grounding (no pressure) to trigger the alarm.
 
Great picture Cliffman, thanks!

You wouldn't happen to have a couple pictures showing where the oil cooler/filter head gets mounted to the block? Apparently over the years the 75 psi relief valve has been dumped back to the pump or the sump. Do you know which way the third gen motors do it? The service manual only mentions it one time and says its back to the pump. Have you ever installed an oil pump? If so is that thin cover plate on the back metal or some kind of polymer or plastic? Does the back of the oil pump seal air tight to the block?



Not sure about the 3rd Gen. As for the oil pump, yes, I've installed a few. there's a metal to metal seal. No gasket. In the attached pic you can see both the pump and filter housing. In the second pic you can see where the filter housing/cooler goes into the block. Also note how close the cooler is to the cylinder walls. I drilled one out and it's only about 1/8 thick. :eek:
 
Originally Posted by AH64ID

Do you have a mech gauge to back that up? I just wonder if the ECM see's no oil pressure if it has to see it for so many seconds before it will tell you its good??? It only took me 3-5 seconds to fill my full flow and bypass after an oil change and show pressure on my mech gauge (sender by the OE switch)
It took 31 seconds for my 05 to sound the alarm. I tried uploading a video my son took onto the TDR tv but it for some reason during the upload it gives an error message and stops. The 6 psi switch is normally closed to ground. If you disconnect the switch and jumper the connector to ground it will simulate no oil pressure. The idiot gauge climbs normally and shows pressure until shortly after the check gauges light comes on when it drops to zero. If you unground the connector the check gauges light goes out and the idiot gauge goes up over 40. When grounded and ungrounded to simulate fluctuating pressure it appears to take 31 seconds of continuous grounding (no pressure) to trigger the alarm.



Just like brods stated, the idiot gauge shows "pressure", then the "check gauges" lights up and you can watch the gauge needle fall to zero. It must have taken me 31 seconds to put it in gear and back up about 80 feet. All the while, the rockers are telling you that oil pressure is not present. Regardless of what the interpretation of no oil pressure is by the ECM and how it activates gauges and warnings, my engine told me that there was no oil pressure and that it doesn't like the amsoil dual remote system.



Another fun game is starting the engine before the grid heater turns off; the oil gauge needle jumps immediately to the right upon starting the engine. It seems there are two issues - the amsoil system disrupts proper oiling system operation and two, the logic in the ECM for running the oil pressure idiot gauge is not fully baked since it will artificially activate the gauge without first waiting for the pressure switch to be activated by real oil pressure.
 
In my truck also you can hear the engine starving for oil the entire time gauge is at zero. It sounds like a lifter tapping on a gasser. Took it out and haven't heard the sound since. I also had three people witness the sound before i took it out to confirm that i am not schicofrenic.
 
In my truck also you can hear the engine starving for oil the entire time gauge is at zero. It sounds like a lifter tapping on a gasser. Took it out and haven't heard the sound since. I also had three people witness the sound before i took it out to confirm that i am not schicofrenic.



You could turn it back in for the "Single" remote (BMK-21). This unit keeps the Full-Flow filter mounted to the engine, and the By-pass mounted on a remote mount.

You could get with the person that sold it to you, and perhaps they would take it back and trade you for the unit you now have.



I have heard of others that have done this by contacting Amosil Inc. 715-399-8324, then ask for someone in the filter dept.



wayne

amsoilman
 
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