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amsoil bypass or other?

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Adding Ball Valve to Bypass Oil Filtration System?

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what do you guys think about the amsoil bypass system? I've been trying to compare it to one I saw in Diesel Power mag. Don't know the name of it but dubed the "soot sucker"(fs2500???). What's the cost difference and which one is better? Been running amsoil synth. for awhile and thought about adding a bypass. Thanks in advance :)
 
I have just the standalone Amsoil bypass filter, not the entire external bypass and fullflow filter...



So far my impressions:



The BE-series filter that Amsoil has replaced kept the oil visibly cleaner... my BE-90s were seemingly better at filtration than these newer EaBP-Series.



The EaBPs are about $40/each... sorta expensive compared to other bypass filters...



They are about the easiest to change... simply spin the old off and the new on... no changing TP, no worrying if you got the filter in correctly, etc... less chance for user error.



I'm still disappointed that the better rated EaBPs don't keep the oil as visibly clean as the BEs...



steved
 
I have an Amsoil BE-100, it is rated at 1 micron. Gary's Frantz is submicronic and will actually pull soot out of the oil. The element is a roll of toilet paper. I haven't seen anything cleaner than Gary's oil. Ralph Wood of Motor Guard, which also use a roll of TP, has been using them on everything for 40 years, and says they actually stop wear on engines.
 
ThrottleJockey said:
I have an Amsoil BE-100, it is rated at 1 micron. Gary's Frantz is submicronic and will actually pull soot out of the oil. The element is a roll of toilet paper. I haven't seen anything cleaner than Gary's oil. Ralph Wood of Motor Guard, which also use a roll of TP, has been using them on everything for 40 years, and says they actually stop wear on engines.



Check out this oil/by-pass system.



http://www.1gr8oil.com/cleanoil.htm





Wayne
 
I fail to see what that video is proving?



I'm sure the Amsoil filter is great. The biggest thing for me was cost. The Frantz filter was ~$100 and I spend about $0. 50 for a roll of TP. I change it every 2500 miles. I'm not sure how long the Amsoil filters last? If they are $40, to equal the cost of the TP elements, it would need to last 200,000 miles.



As for user error to change the TP... well it's a simple process to pull the oil roll out, chuck it in the trash, stuff a new roll in after unwinding some sheets to so it will fit, and button it back up. A person could do it on the side of the road or truck stop if they really wanted to.
 
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I know about the amsoils fairly well. . where do i get more info on the franz unit. Just trying to get the best filtration. Thanks
 
Nate said:
I fail to see what that video is proving?



I'm sure the Amsoil filter is great. The biggest thing for me was cost. The Frantz filter was ~$100 and I spend about $0. 50 for a roll of TP. I change it every 2500 miles. I'm not sure how long the Amsoil filters last? If they are $40, to equal the cost of the TP elements, it would need to last 200,000 miles.



As for user error to change the TP... well it's a simple process to pull the oil roll out, chuck it in the trash, stuff a new roll in after unwinding some sheets to so it will fit, and button it back up. A person could do it on the side of the road or truck stop if they really wanted to.

The video is not "Proving" anything. It is simply showing the oil is clean enough to not leave your hands dirty... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... after having many thousands of miles on the oil. Try that with your own oil.



Yes, toilet paper By-pass filters are much better than a regular oil filter, but they do need changing @ 2-3,000 mile intervals, which also means you need to add about a quart of oil each and every time the element is changed. NOt a BIG deal to many people. On the other hand, I have only changed the element in my truck two times and added just over two quarts of oil in that 50,000 Plus miles.





Wayne
 
ThrottleJockey said:
I have an Amsoil BE-100, it is rated at 1 micron. Gary's Frantz is submicronic and will actually pull soot out of the oil. The element is a roll of toilet paper. I haven't seen anything cleaner than Gary's oil. Ralph Wood of Motor Guard, which also use a roll of TP, has been using them on everything for 40 years, and says they actually stop wear on engines.





The BEs are rated at 3 micron, not 1... they are a different media design than the EaBPs...



steved
 
ThrottleJockey said:
Ahhh. Thank you Steved.



3 micron, eh? Anybody want an Amsoil bypass filter? :-laf



I'm going to TP!



http://www.bypassfilter.com/MotorGuardFilters.htm





The new EaBP series (the BE has been discontinued) are good to 2micron...



IMO, the BE filtered better... my oil stayed visibly cleaner with the BEs than with the newer EaBPs... plus they removed water...



I put too many miles on too quickly to be switching TP all the time... that was the only reason I shyed from them...



steved
 
The FS2500 video demo is pretty impressive and makes me want to try one out. But, have heard they cost around 500 bucks!! Then the elements are proprietary. The up side is in their video, their unit is removing almost all the visible soot in the oil. Impressive IMO. My Frantz units will not remove all visible soot out of the oil, so am not totally satisfied yet. But most others wont either. Still will stick with the Frantz for awhile. They seem to work reasonably well, elements are cheap, easy to change, and i still dont have a problem adding a quart of oil when changing the element. Keeps the additives up. Oil analysis come out consistantly decent and Frantz has been around for decades. Plus I like simplicity. Works here. .

Im not selling any brand so I dont have to keep looking for things wrong with the others to still like the frantz. If the FS2500 were more reasonably priced, Id be trying one. . The spinner looks interesting also. .

The thing about the Amsoil remote unit is I believe you can tap an oil cooler into its remote circuit (correct me if im wrong). . Would like a little extra oil cooling for pulling hot desert grades. .
 
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Shortshift,



Use a Perma Cool Sandwhich Adapter and add the cooler of your choice.



Ditto what Shortshift said. I'll change the TP roll. I gotta change it in the bathroom.



Steved, I hear you. Motor Guard (Ralph Wood) has a TP filter (TP and paper towel combo) that will last a minimum of 30000 miles. It is based on the bigger Luberfiner design cannister, the LF-750, and you make your own element for it out of 3 or 4 rolls of TP and paper towels.
 
ThrottleJockey said:
Steved, I hear you. Motor Guard (Ralph Wood) has a TP filter (TP and paper towel combo) that will last a minimum of 30000 miles. It is based on the bigger Luberfiner design cannister, the LF-750, and you make your own element for it out of 3 or 4 rolls of TP and paper towels.





I wished I would have known this ahead of time... oh well...



steved
 
Out of curiosity, do you all think by using the bypass filter, when oil change time comes around would the used oil be filtered enough it could be used in your fuel tank without any further filtering? I know we talk about filtering or letting it sit for a week or so, so the particules settle to the bottom but with this tp bypass filter filtering down under 1 micron it would seem to me you couldn't get it filtered aymore than that.
 
srenfro said:
Out of curiosity, do you all think by using the bypass filter, when oil change time comes around would the used oil be filtered enough it could be used in your fuel tank without any further filtering? I know we talk about filtering or letting it sit for a week or so, so the particules settle to the bottom but with this tp bypass filter filtering down under 1 micron it would seem to me you couldn't get it filtered aymore than that.





In theory, it should be ready to run... I'm having the same dilema... my concern would be the transition from the truck to the drain pan to the storage container.



I plan on building a filter setup like in one of the waste oil threads... bucket, that gravity feeds through a filter, into a clean container... just to be sure. Fill a 5 gallon bucket, let it sit a week, and start draining it off. I know after seeing the junk that comes out of an oilpan that I'm surprised an engine can last as long as they do!



steved
 
Amsoil

A week after I bought my 2001 HO 6 speed, the Amsoil guy approached me and asked if I was thinking of using Amsoil...



He said all the right stuff, like the transmission and rear end will run 30F cooler than with the stock grease, etc... ( I have trans temp and rear end temp gauages )... he also said that the $12 per quart oil in the transmission was nothing but synthetic 5w40...



Well, I was convinced and we drained everything and put Amsoil in, top to bottom...



After 100 miles, my temp gauges were exactly where they were before the Amsoil, AND, IT DAMN NEAR TORE THE TRANSMISSION OUT OF MY TRUCK !!!!



I made the Amsoil man come back and put all the factory grease and oil's back in it...



I change my oil every 3k, oil filter every 6k, fuel filter every 9k, transmission and transfer case every 24k, rear end every 12k ( because i do nothing but tow, grossing 17k ) and I clean and re-oil my K&N air filter every 12k...



It's cheap insurance and my truck will last well beyond the average 400k useful life...
 
mtnrambo said:
A week after I bought my 2001 HO 6 speed, the Amsoil guy approached me and asked if I was thinking of using Amsoil...



He said all the right stuff, like the transmission and rear end will run 30F cooler than with the stock grease, etc... ( I have trans temp and rear end temp gauages )... he also said that the $12 per quart oil in the transmission was nothing but synthetic 5w40...
The fluid in the NV-5600 is not a 5W-40! It should be a synthetic 5W-30! If your Amsoil guy put in the 5W-40, he put the wrong stuff in it!



I have the NV-5600 in my 03' CTD, and i'm running the MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid) synthetic 5W-30 from Amsoil without ANY problems, and I have 62,000 on my truck.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
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