Amsoil.. What's the difference?

[RKohn]

There's no doubt in my mind that synthetic is better than dino oil. I became a believer when we pulled the valve cover off a neighbor's jeep years ago. It had half a bazillion miles on it, but he had been running mobile-1 and that sucker looked and ran like new.

I'm going bumper to bumper synthetic @ 50k, but still considering brand.

Seen some good info here so far, but a lotta crap too. To quote Sgt. Friday, we need... "Just the facts. "



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Y2K Red Stealth Sport 2500 4X4 QC SLT+, 5-spd, 3. 54 LotsaSpinDiff, 265-75-16 LTX's (Don't Michelins ever wear out?), DC's dead cow/vinyl interior and 4-wheel don't stop anti-lock brakes, Roll-N-Lock bedcover. What silencer ring? (More fun than my 98 SST)

 

[1tuffram]

Gary,

To be honest I don't think anyone here can answer your question regarding how much more extended service life our B-series will see to justify the added cost of using synthetics vs petroleum oil. My reasoning, in all reality how many of us will keep our trucks long enough to reach the Cummins predicted service life???? (what is it 300-500K using petroleum oil at Cummins specified oil change interval) Theory says synthetics should decrease wear and extend life, Right?? How much in our Cummins???, Well how many of us will still be driving the same truck past the 500K mile mark to find out? I don't see many people posting in the TDR with that kind of mileage, although there are a few. So the whole issue seems rather moot.

This discussion can go on forever because there most likely is not any data to answer your very specific questions. The best we can do is is take what data we have at hand and make an educated guess at what you are asking (which Dan presented rather well to both the questions going on in this thread).




[This message has been edited by 1tuffram (edited 03-19-2001). ]

 

[Dan Watson]

You are right that the flash points are similar. What is different is the oxidation and varnishing characteristics of the syn vs the petro at the elevated temps. The petro is in the advanced or rapid oxidation stage and the syn is still relatively stable. The problem with the oil in the turbo is again the condition of forming coke or very hard carbonized oil. This is a product of very high temps causing accelerated oxidation that forms the carbon. The synthetic is much more resistant to this process at the same elelvated temps. This is the reason that synthetic oil is used in all jet turbines or combusiton turbines of any kind.

Dan Watson

 

[willyslover]

I have deleted my post and apologized to Gary
I was out of line #ad

Gary

 

[unclebilly]

With regard to Gary's use of STP, I'm a firm beleiver in Slick 50 and can back up its performance with the following:

We put in in one of our fishboats with a Bedford 466 in it (2 quarts every second oil change) - the engine sounded different after about 20 hours, fuel consumption was reduced by ~10%, and it quit using as much oil (not sure why this happened - perhaps it free'd up an oil ring). These days dad runs Slick50 in all of our boats.

My brother used to cut lawns when he was in high school. He had Slick50 in his mower and while cutting our lawn, he noticed that his mower smelled 'hot'. Upon checking the oil, he found it empty and discovered that the drain plug was missing. He found it close to the beginning of the job.

One of my dad's old drag racing buddies (he ran AA Altered in the early 60's) used to be a Slick50 dealer. He used to sell it by betting guys at the bar that he could drive to the airport and back after draining the oil from his engine. He never lost a motor.

I am both a Plastics Engineering Technologist and a Mechanical Engineer - I understand how teflon diffuses into steel etc. Slick50 does have technical merit.

As for synthetic oil, I believe it is a worthwhile investment - you never know when you might blow a rad hose, lose your waterpump or whatever - the fact is that if your engine overheats, you have more protection with synthetic lubricants - I figure it is cheap insurance.

Currently, I am running Mobile 1 and am planning on adding the Slick50. Mobile 1 says it is approved for all gasoline and diesel engines on the bottle, if it buggers my engine, Mobile can pay up...

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91. 5 CTD 4X4, 5" Stacks, Tweaked Pump, 33" Boots (in the summer), Unlimited Slip,
<P><B><A Big, Bad Dodge

 

[Dan Watson]

HC,

Sorry it took me a little longer to get back to you. My other life actually took some of my time. When cooling the turbo down you are right to be concerned about the oil in the turbo. I would stay with-in a safety margin of 2 and let me explain. The flash point for the Amsoil is approx 440*F. You are cooling to 300*F for the petroleum. I think you could go up an additional 50*F without doing a research project. To go above that without monitoring the inside of the trubine would not be prudent. The main thing that we are concerned about is the formation of coke deposits in the oil passages from the oil overheating. Coke is very hard carbon (just before the transformation to daimonds) that can be created when the oil passes through the oxidation stage to form hard carbon. The oil trapped in the passages when the turbo is secured will equalize with the maximum temp of the turbo. The Amsoil will handle much higher temps and not be converted to sludge or varnish or coke. I think it is best to leave this margin as safety rather than use it for convenience. However the 50*F would problably be acceptable without running a study or experiment to see the results from higher temps.

Dan Watson www.AdvancedLubeTech.com

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

". The flash point for the Amsoil is approx 440*F. You are cooling to 300*F for the petroleum. "

HMMMm - the recent report on my 5000 mile Rotella T placed the flashpoint at 425*f - not that much different from the Amsoil it would seem...

Comment?

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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

 

[HC]

I have deleted my post and apologized...

You're a good and honorable man!

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

AND, the "other Gary's" apology is fully accepted, without reserve! It really wasn't necessary as far as I was concerned, but WAS the mark of a true gentleman!

At this point, it seems relevant to point out that this is truly a unique group as groups go - we enjoy a FAR greater degree of mutual respect and considerate behavior than most - and tho' we MAY disagree on occasional issues, that disagreement is usually conducted on a manner that need make none of us ashamed or angry!

Thanks guys - *I* really appreciate it! #ad


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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...