Another one bites the dust (VE Pump)

[flathead6]

Whether due to the ULSD gremlins or time (1992 w/130,XXX), my pump has sprung a leak.

Thanks to Greenleaf's VE 101 at SOP3 I have an understanding of the guts now but still not sure about re-ringing it myself. There has been a flurry of pump dialog but I need it sumed up simply like so:



1. Is it worth/feasable for me (I've rebuilt Willys & old tractor motors {basic & simple} but no injector pumps {new & tighter tolerences}) to replace the seals and "upgrade" it myself or am I better off spending the bucks on one out of a box to my mailbox (ie will it need to be bench tested or special tools other than the "bent wrench")?



2. Since its coming off anyway, what else should/could be done to perfect the stock unit besides a 3200 spring? This truck has guages, a 16cm & stock turbo, 4" straight pipe, "enhanced" air flow, stock injectors and needs decent mileage and the ability to tow 5-10,000lb reliably - but no desire to impress with way high hp# or smoke.



Sorry if this rehashes past threads but none that I found have answered my specific questions to my satisfaction . If more seals shrink then others may be facing these same basic questions...

Thanks,

KRB

 

[PToombs]

KRB,

#1 is up to you, your ability, $ availablity, etc. I have never had one apart farther than the top off. But I have access to core pumps, which I am going to take apart for practice. PM Scott and ask if he will do it for you. If you can't have the truck down for long, you may have to do the mail thing.



#2 a 3200 spring is a must, A set of 191 injectors won't hurt either. Smaller holes than stock, (less fuel) but much better atomization. This means more power, and better fuel mileage. As per Mark at PDR. I was thinking about a set of these, but for what I am doing, I am going to PODs.

I hope this helps,

 

[rlyons]

Whether due to the ULSD gremlins or time (1992 w/130,XXX), my pump has sprung a leak.

Thanks to Greenleaf's VE 101 at SOP3 I have an understanding of the guts now but still not sure about re-ringing it myself. There has been a flurry of pump dialog but I need it sumed up simply like so:



1. Is it worth/feasable for me (I've rebuilt Willys & old tractor motors {basic & simple} but no injector pumps {new & tighter tolerences}) to replace the seals and "upgrade" it myself or am I better off spending the bucks on one out of a box to my mailbox (ie will it need to be bench tested or special tools other than the "bent wrench")?



2. Since its coming off anyway, what else should/could be done to perfect the stock unit besides a 3200 spring? This truck has guages, a 16cm & stock turbo, 4" straight pipe, "enhanced" air flow, stock injectors and needs decent mileage and the ability to tow 5-10,000lb reliably - but no desire to impress with way high hp# or smoke.



Sorry if this rehashes past threads but none that I found have answered my specific questions to my satisfaction . If more seals shrink then others may be facing these same basic questions...

Thanks,

KRB

Where is it leaking?

 

[PToombs]

Where is it leaking?

Oh yeah! Good question!

 

[dpuckett]

If you can rebuild an engine, you can replace the seals on an injector pump. just pay attention to how it all comes apart, and pay special attention when you remove the head. Above all, keep it CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN!!! I cant emphasize that enough.



Now as for knowing what you are looking at, and what else you should replace, that is up to you. New springs may not hurt, along with the 366 gov spring. I considered doing that for the truck I am going to keep, but decided to let someone with some training and know how go through it. I'll report back with findings when I get it done.



Daniel

 

[flathead6]

Oh yeah! Good question!

Oh yea, I guess that would help huh. Couldn't tell until this morning after most of the fuel had drained off.



Started it up and it immediately started seeping out of a bolt head thats located at the very top front where it mounts to the engine. Like between the drive and govenor. Its right beside the fuel inlet. It has a small (~3/16"?) tube that runs over it and connects to the advance solenoid. The bolt can be reached to tighten it (after removing the tube) but not taken out because it would hit the mounting plate.



So what is it and what does it do? I don't see it labeled in any of the diagrams. And more importantly, does it hurt to operate the pump with the leak? I know it makes a mess but is it starving it of any lubrication? Truck runs OK but haven't tested it under load.

 

[Greenleaf]

I'm attempting to visualize the local of said leak... ... ... ... .



From what I gather, it's the gov shaft . Pull the pump and install all new seal on that sucker. Then install a set of return springs, gov screw and shave off the foot on the rev lever.



Oo.

 

[rlyons]

Oh yea, I guess that would help huh. Couldn't tell until this morning after most of the fuel had drained off.



Started it up and it immediately started seeping out of a bolt head thats located at the very top front where it mounts to the engine. Like between the drive and govenor. Its right beside the fuel inlet. It has a small (~3/16"?) tube that runs over it and connects to the advance solenoid. The bolt can be reached to tighten it (after removing the tube) but not taken out because it would hit the mounting plate.



So what is it and what does it do? I don't see it labeled in any of the diagrams. And more importantly, does it hurt to operate the pump with the leak? I know it makes a mess but is it starving it of any lubrication? Truck runs OK but haven't tested it under load.

Is it one of these?

 

[flathead6]

Yep! Top photo, the long bolt with several sets of threads. What is it and what does it do?

Thanks,

KRB

 

[rlyons]

It's the governor shaft that holds the governor assembly in place.

 

[flathead6]

I see. So to replace those seals, all that will have to come apart. Looks like I'm just going to have to do the whole thing. No easy way out.

Thanks for the help guys,

KRB

 

[Greenleaf]

I recieved your message...........

I'll send you a detailed PM when I get a moment.



Scott

 

[DSteimle]

that's just stange, the wife's just started leaking from the same spot. i changed the orings on the ksb fitting thinking that may have been it, but it wasn't. now i've gotta pull the pump to fix this. what would cause this to start leaking?

 

[rlyons]

A lot of leaks have sprung up lately, maybe the new fuel, maybe old age who knows.

 

[flathead6]

A lot of leaks have sprung up lately, maybe the new fuel, maybe old age who knows.

But I'm only 42 :-laf ... so I'm assuming its the fuel!



From what I understand - or read - the ULSD supposedly is missing what ever substance that kept the seals expanded. They shrink & leak.



At least it gives me an excuse to justify an upgraded VE, but now the kids will have to wear PJs at the dance recitals, return their Xmas gifts, etc.



Hey Toombs, where does one get the 191s? I found 190s. Shame on you for giving me more ideas that I can't afford .



KRB

 

[PToombs]

KRB, you're not the only one with ideas and no $. :-laf

My mistake, 190's is what I meant, it was a year ago that I talked to Mark. I can't hardly remember yesterday!

 

[dpuckett]

ULSD supposedly is missing what ever substance that kept the seals expanded. They shrink & leak.

Aromatic compounds. Not sure exactly what they are, but they will cause older nitrile seals to swell up, then take away the aromatics, and guess what? They shrink, casuing a leak. I would assume the leaking is caused bt the seals staying swelled up for so long, then stiffening. Newer viton seals are resistant to the aromatics effects, and thus hold their shape longer.



DP