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Another rear brake adjustment story

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Reading all the posts on the rear brake adjustment topic, and an accident, forced me to adjust the rear brakes. I've never adjusted any brakes before . . and was a little reluctant.

About 3 weeks back the wife plowed into the back of a car . . every one was alright, minimal damage on both vehicles . . but the wife mentioned that it seemed the truck just wouldn't stop.

I chaulked it off to rain soaked streets and the wife's lack of experience stopping a 7k pound truck.

Not so . . I have 19k miles on the truck but since she brought it to my attention, I too noticed a different feel . . like the fronts were doing all the stopping. Additionally since I have a 5sp . . I always use the emergency brake . . and noticed the peddle has to be pushed pretty far down. Funny how you fail to notice subtle changes over time.

Well I backed it in the garage, jack'd it up and placed on jack stands . . pulled the tires and removed the drum for inspection. Drums slid off easily. Lot's of brake dust so there was some stopping action happening at one time. Dusted it all off . . applied penetrating oil to the adjustment knob and put the tires back on.

About 17 clicks (each side) of the adjustment wheel to first drag of the pads . . then backed off one.

Amaizing difference in stopping performance. Emergency brake peddle travels alot less after adjustment too.

I just wished I listened and did the adjustment at the oil change intervals . . it may have prevented my wife's accident. I surely will in the future though!

How can you tell if I adjusted too tight?

Michael

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00 Driftwood 2500 ST QC ISB LB 5spd 3:54 LSD Tow & Camper Groups . . SunnyBrook 33FKS Travel Trailer

my photos
 
Michael,as long as you can put the drum back on they aren't too tight. I adjust mine without removing anything,just spin the wheel while clicking till the shoes start to rub. If you remove the drum you could try using some antiseize on the adjuster bolts,get them to turn easily,it may make the self adjusting feature work. I cleaned and antiseized mine and got one side to self adjust,but for the life of me I can't figure out why the other won't,everything seems fine. I think most of the pull problems folks complain about are related to the rears out of adjustment,I do mine at every oil change.
 
Michael,

I also adjust the rear brakes every oil change. Since I rotate the tires and have them off, I remove the drums to adjust the brakes. If you do it that way you can do the adjustment with your fingers if you have lubed the adjustment wheel. I tighten them up until the drum is hard to put on and then loosen them until it slides on easy. Oh yeah, while I'm at it I inspect the brakes.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
Are the self adjusters prone to freeze up? Or do they just require that you adjust them manuely?This is probably the reason why allott of trucks have to replace front pads so often.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed. 84 Dodge d-150, 318 Hooker headers,Edelbrok intake,mallory ignition,Carter Afb,Accel coil,and Custom dual exhaust. Boat,fifthwheel,motorcycles,and shop,job to support toys. Yuck...
 
Do the rear drums slide off or must the axle/axle flange be removed first, as on the larger full floating axles?? I was doing a quick tire change in the cold and decided to check the brakes, but couldn't decide how to pull the drum. Adjusted brakes --only neeeded about 3 clicks per side, but want to pull the drums and inspect brakes soon.
 
The rear drums just pull off when the wheel is off. There are some little clips that the factory puts on the lug studs, but they normally "disappear" the first time someone takes the drum off.
 
Mopar Man,the drums come off by just removing the wheel. If they have never been removed before they are sometimes frozen on. Penetrating oil on the studs and a couple of good whacks with a sledge hammer will usually get them though. Make sure the parking brake is released.

Champ,I haven't been able to pin point the reason,but many times the self adjusters just don't work. Try making sure the adjusters aren't frozen up,I did and got one side to self adjust but not the other.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
When I adjust mine I usually adjust until I can feel the adjusters get tight and then back off 4 clicks. You have to use two screwdrivers for this method, though. One to hold the ratchet mechanism away from the adjuster wheel and another to back the wheel off.

Good luck,
Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD
ISSPRO pyrometer, Walker 21468, 20,000 miles 12-19-00
-- email address removed --
Howdy Agg's!
 
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every one on this post so far is right on the money---all correct and good advise. these self adjusters on our trucks haven't worked properly for years--even before dodge on GM. . the levers don't lift high enough to grab the next cog when backing up. there is a fine line between not adjusting enough and to much. I am working on a solution. --sam
 
Just a safety tip. Remember not to blow the brake dust out, (or clutch dust) unhealthy to your lungs. Use brake cleaner spray.

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Ron

96 4x2 2500 Garnet/Driftwood Auto,3. 54,K&N,Cobra 93 TT Terry 29L,'84 VW Rabbit diesel,
 
I recently tried to remove the drums and found that I have full float axles. To remove the drum you must remove the axle. This was a surprise but confirmed by Manual and Dodge Dealer. Just spent the w/end R & R front brakes, valve adj. , R & R transmission fluid/filter, adj. rear brakes. Easy truck to work on.

95 LWB, 4x4, AT
 
Water is another ( cheaper ) way to clean brake dust off the drums. Just hose 'em down with the garden hose. It is my experience that if you use grease on the self adjuster threads the grease will attract all the dust and soon seize up. I have always cleaned the adjusters with alcohol or either. Setting the park brake each time you park will not only help keep the rears adjusted, but by clicking the adjuster wheel often, keeps it from seizing.

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98 Properly Valved 4x4 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, DC nerf bars, DC two piece mud-flaps, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16, BD Heavy Duty Valve body. Walker 21468 thru flow muffler,Cobra 29 NWST CB. American Racing Wheels. Power Edge EZ control module.
 
Can someone else confirm this, But since my driveway is inclined . . I always use the parking brake.

I set it tight . . at least 6 times a day. To the contrary of what ram-kowboy stated, I was told the self adjusters do their thing when you're backing and hit the brakes. And that it was the rocking motion in the backwards direction that actuated the adjuster. And mindful that I always stop hard when backing, in addition to the frequent use of the parking brake.

In either case my actions should have given the adjusters a chance to work . . but they didn't.

On inspection, the mechanism worked easily . . no dust buildup on the threads . . I found nothing that would cause the brakes to be over 17 clicks out.

I'll just need to be more mindful of this and do like everyone else does . . and inspect at each oil change. Its not a 2 min task . . but worth the effort.

It's not that I'm doubting you kowboy . . I just want to be sure. I'd sure like to know the correct action so the adjusters can do their job.

Thanks for all the information!

Michael

[This message has been edited by madams (edited 02-12-2001). ]
 
Black Fingernails,

I have a '95 with full floating rear axles just like everyone else. The drums will pull off the hub on mine without pulling the axles. Unless your drums are part of the hub assembly they should come off the same way.

Ram_Kowboy,

Like Bill I use anti-seize to lub mine. Lots of miles and no problems with grit causing the adjusters to jam.
 
You'd think the drums are "one" with the axle hub after they've been on for awhile. Simple trick. Put the rear axle on jack stands. Block the front wheels. Remove the rear wheels. Crank 'er up and get the rear wheels rolling. Hit your brakes one time and go check your drums. This works for me every time. They can be a real challenge to get loose any other way.
After the first inspection, my adjusters work good. I just have to remember to stop hard in reverse now and then. Not something we're used to doing.

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98 2500 CC SB 4X2 12v 5spd 4. 10, -silencer, AFC+20, Edelbrock IAS, VDO gauges, Reese 15k Classic
97 Dodge Stratus 150HP
92 Harley Fatboy, Dynojet fuel management, Supertrapp 2-1
00 Jayco 25' 5th wheel, single slide
 
Michael,your driveway stop would be the way to self adjust the brakes if they worked. You must come to a complete stop in reverse for them to work.
I use antiseize to lube the brake parts because it doesn't seem to trap dust like grease or oil.

Steve,great tip I'm going to try that one,the sledge hammer trick works,but although I never cracked a drum doing it I always worry that it will happen.
 
michael... this system is not the type that adjusts the brakes by setting the e-brake. The self adjusters only work in reverse to a complete stop but the adjuster wheels are not fine enough to keep adjusted properly.
 
The action of the park brake and the action of the wheel cylinder ativate the brake shoes in the same fashion. Therefore both functions will ajust the star wheel. There are several reasons why the adjusting lever might not properly spin the star wheel. Worn out hold-down springs or return-springs can be one. Also if drums are outside their max. dia. tolerence can be another. Adjusting levers can bind... . and many many more. In my experience there are as many out there not working as are working. My habit has always been to set parking brake each time I leave the truck. And a periodic adjustment when I rotate the tires.

Sam.....
I respectfully disagree with you. Every brake system that has a single anchor point at the top and free floating ( that is non-anchored ) at the bottom that I can think of will self adjust ( at least on the design board ). This style brake system is very common, not only on our Rams but several others for the past 30 years or so.

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98 Properly Valved 4x4 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, DC nerf bars, DC two piece mud-flaps, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16, BD Heavy Duty Valve body. Walker 21468 thru flow muffler,Cobra 29 NWST CB. American Racing Wheels. Power Edge EZ control module.

[This message has been edited by Ram_Kowboy (edited 02-12-2001). ]
 
Kowboy--I understand your thinking but on a self energising system which this is the primary[front] shoe moves off the anchor on forward brake application and rolls the secondary shoe into the drum. the opposite occurs in reverse causing the self adjuster lever to move. contray to what people think the shoes don't move out same during operation. thats the reason primary shoes are shorter & thinner. the rear shoe does most of the braking due to drum rotation.
 
Yes... . I think we are about on the same page. Thanks Sam.

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98 Properly Valved 4x4 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, DC nerf bars, DC two piece mud-flaps, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16, BD Heavy Duty Valve body. Walker 21468 thru flow muffler,Cobra 29 NWST CB. American Racing Wheels. Power Edge EZ control module.
 
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