Alan Reagan
TDR MEMBER
Glad you have it working. My R&D has been on hold since I was recalled by the Coast Guard. Looks great.
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anti bark valve
- Thread starter CUMINNTSTRKN
- Start Date
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Mike... me tooooo
I think my mods are about the same as Mike's. . I do the same as I row through the gears with WOT and box on 5x5. . doesn't do the bark very often when the box is off. . but then I'm not slamming the clutch/throttle either.
I think my mods are about the same as Mike's. . I do the same as I row through the gears with WOT and box on 5x5. . doesn't do the bark very often when the box is off. . but then I'm not slamming the clutch/throttle either.
Josparkz
it will work fine on 12v or 24v motors.
jim
it will work fine on 12v or 24v motors.
jim
Sweet!
How much bread is it? PM me... . darn pricing rules.
Matt
How much bread is it? PM me... . darn pricing rules.
Matt
Open the newest TDR mag, and see the ad for BD, that looks like an old "1950's style" diners, and I think it is listed as $595? Not bad concidering that is about half the price of a PDR40.
I think that would be the one talking about here, not the more controlable one. Just a guess.
Andrew
Drew: What magazine?
You mean there is more to life than this website!?
I did see that ad... . pretty cool marketing idea, IMHO.
Matt
You mean there is more to life than this website!?
I did see that ad... . pretty cool marketing idea, IMHO.
Matt
Originally posted by HoleshotHolset
Drew: What magazine?
You mean there is more to life than this website!?
I did see that ad... . pretty cool marketing idea, IMHO.
Matt
Matty,
Yeah, my only problem with the ad is that the lettering just just a TAD too small, and if I think they are small, how do you think the older members feel?
Andrew
If you have to squint or read it twice - the retention rate is much higher.
There's a method to their madness.
Matt
There's a method to their madness.
Matt
Steve: Care to expand on that one? 
PM me if necessary.
Matt
PM me if necessary.
Matt
Me Me Me!!!
Merrick,
I've got one and it's a freakin blast. I've had more races than ever since I put it on. People hear it and go nuts. Plus there is always the intended purpose and side effect of getting rid of turbo bark.
Post any questions or call me if you want to talk about anything very involved.
Merrick,
I've got one and it's a freakin blast. I've had more races than ever since I put it on. People hear it and go nuts. Plus there is always the intended purpose and side effect of getting rid of turbo bark.
Post any questions or call me if you want to talk about anything very involved.
Steve: I'm looking forward to hearing more about it.....
Matt
Matt
Turbo bark has the potential to be VERY bad on the turbo,and even worse should you have twins. Think about what is physically happening when the turbo barks. I will be running one of these before to long also.
Andrew
Andrew
Man that thing would be cool to have, but my hx-40 brand new only cost me $275 from a local hook-up. I wish I could justify one, but hell I guess I'll just blow up my turbo.
Monster, monster garage!!!
Ok, Matt... here's the deal. . My freaking engine is so loud to start with, and running a ScottyII air intake thru the cowl, no noticeable "cool" blast of air as the thing goes off. I'm also running a PDR modified HX-50 non wastegated turbo with custom 42cm manifold mounted wastegate, set to start to bleed at 48psi. As you know, the larger the turbo, the less chance of turbo bark! I believe, the best place to relieve pressure to prevent turbo bark, is on the turbine housing itself, not down stream after intercooler. I know some of you guys will spam me for this, oh well. Mark my words, the next generation of turbos, will have blow-off valves mounted on the turbo housings!!! Now what I have done, is very simple and does work. The thing I haven't tried is doing it on say an Hx-35 or Hx-40. Now back to what I've done. On the metal 3" tube that connects to the rubber boot at the bottom of the turbo and the rubber boot to the intercooler, approx. center, I welded (2) 1"x 1/4" threaded npt couplers, approx. 1/4" apart . Next, I installed on one of the couplers, an adjustable 25-50psi Hobb switch. The other coupler, I install a NOS 1/4" X 1/4" solenoid. Then I installed a toggle switch in the cab, and an"old" pac brake accelerator switch to the go pedal... Follow so far? Ok, like an exhaust brake switch, the toggle switch receives power from the battery, and simply arms the system either on or off. Power is then routed to the pac brake switch next to the go pedal, which is non- activated when the throttle pedal is depressed (open circuit) and makes contact when the throttle pedal is released (closed circuit). The same way an exhaust brake works. When the pedal is released, the power is routed to the Hobbs switch. The Hobbs switch will only transfer power (close circuit) when boost pressure reaches a pre-set PSI, and ( open the circuit) at the lowest setting of the Hobbs switch. Confused yet? In other words, (my set-up), power will not flow through the Hobbs switch, unless the boost pressure is 25psi or greater, and will prevent power flow if the boost pressure is 24psi or less. Now, once the power leaves the Hobbs switch, it goes to the NOS solenoid which opens up and starts the process of relieving pressure. This all happens in a matter of a split second. So, here I go, I pull up to a FURD at a stop light, flip on my toggle switch, We launch, rip through the gears (6-sp) 3rd gear and up I start pushing 25psi + on boost, let off the throttle pedal between shifts, "Pissssssssss" to 24psi, back on the gas again, 5th gear turn on my 2-stage NOS system, boost goes to 50psi, let off throttle pedal, "Pisssssss" to 24psi, back on the gas again 6th gear, foot buried in the go pedal, NOS 2nd stage kicks in at 35psi "bang" no not the head gasket, 55psi manifold wastage full open now, 120 MPH, 1600*+ FURD no where in site, let off go pedal "pisssssssssssssss" to 24psi ..... Yesssssss. True story!!! Sorry for the long post, but I wanted you guys to get the theory... By drilling a 1/4" hole in the turbo compressor (which I haven't done yet) housing, relocating the NOS solenoid there Oooooooooooo!
Get it... ? I don't have time to take pics, as I'm up to my eye-balls making shift knobs for members ( that's another story). I going to Diesel thunder in Spokane next week and anyone going can see the set-up live.
Steve
P. S. to answer, the question coming, how can a 1/4" valve approx. 7mm relieve enough pressure to prevent turbo surge? The answer, is the closer you locate the relief valve to the source ie. , the turbo, less volume is required to lower the pressure. By relieving the pressure, after the intercooler or even closer to manifold the "shock" and volume of air has to travel back to the turbo thereby, requiring a larger method "size" of blow-off to reduce the pressure quickly. My method is kinda like blowing or having a loose clamp on the high pressure side, without the hose coming off. It doesn't take much to lower your boost? right? What I'm doing, is pro-active venting, not re-active venting. Stopping the problem before it becomes a problem. A wastegate, controls drive pressure, a blow-off valve controls boost pressure to a level to prevent blow back effecting the turbo. This is an entire different approach to the "conventional" methods today on gasser. Ok, Flame, bash, call me an idiot, I'll get the last laugh...
Ok, Matt... here's the deal. . My freaking engine is so loud to start with, and running a ScottyII air intake thru the cowl, no noticeable "cool" blast of air as the thing goes off. I'm also running a PDR modified HX-50 non wastegated turbo with custom 42cm manifold mounted wastegate, set to start to bleed at 48psi. As you know, the larger the turbo, the less chance of turbo bark! I believe, the best place to relieve pressure to prevent turbo bark, is on the turbine housing itself, not down stream after intercooler. I know some of you guys will spam me for this, oh well. Mark my words, the next generation of turbos, will have blow-off valves mounted on the turbo housings!!! Now what I have done, is very simple and does work. The thing I haven't tried is doing it on say an Hx-35 or Hx-40. Now back to what I've done. On the metal 3" tube that connects to the rubber boot at the bottom of the turbo and the rubber boot to the intercooler, approx. center, I welded (2) 1"x 1/4" threaded npt couplers, approx. 1/4" apart . Next, I installed on one of the couplers, an adjustable 25-50psi Hobb switch. The other coupler, I install a NOS 1/4" X 1/4" solenoid. Then I installed a toggle switch in the cab, and an"old" pac brake accelerator switch to the go pedal... Follow so far? Ok, like an exhaust brake switch, the toggle switch receives power from the battery, and simply arms the system either on or off. Power is then routed to the pac brake switch next to the go pedal, which is non- activated when the throttle pedal is depressed (open circuit) and makes contact when the throttle pedal is released (closed circuit). The same way an exhaust brake works. When the pedal is released, the power is routed to the Hobbs switch. The Hobbs switch will only transfer power (close circuit) when boost pressure reaches a pre-set PSI, and ( open the circuit) at the lowest setting of the Hobbs switch. Confused yet? In other words, (my set-up), power will not flow through the Hobbs switch, unless the boost pressure is 25psi or greater, and will prevent power flow if the boost pressure is 24psi or less. Now, once the power leaves the Hobbs switch, it goes to the NOS solenoid which opens up and starts the process of relieving pressure. This all happens in a matter of a split second. So, here I go, I pull up to a FURD at a stop light, flip on my toggle switch, We launch, rip through the gears (6-sp) 3rd gear and up I start pushing 25psi + on boost, let off the throttle pedal between shifts, "Pissssssssss" to 24psi, back on the gas again, 5th gear turn on my 2-stage NOS system, boost goes to 50psi, let off throttle pedal, "Pisssssss" to 24psi, back on the gas again 6th gear, foot buried in the go pedal, NOS 2nd stage kicks in at 35psi "bang" no not the head gasket, 55psi manifold wastage full open now, 120 MPH, 1600*+ FURD no where in site, let off go pedal "pisssssssssssssss" to 24psi ..... Yesssssss. True story!!! Sorry for the long post, but I wanted you guys to get the theory... By drilling a 1/4" hole in the turbo compressor (which I haven't done yet) housing, relocating the NOS solenoid there Oooooooooooo!
Get it... ? I don't have time to take pics, as I'm up to my eye-balls making shift knobs for members ( that's another story). I going to Diesel thunder in Spokane next week and anyone going can see the set-up live.
Steve
P. S. to answer, the question coming, how can a 1/4" valve approx. 7mm relieve enough pressure to prevent turbo surge? The answer, is the closer you locate the relief valve to the source ie. , the turbo, less volume is required to lower the pressure. By relieving the pressure, after the intercooler or even closer to manifold the "shock" and volume of air has to travel back to the turbo thereby, requiring a larger method "size" of blow-off to reduce the pressure quickly. My method is kinda like blowing or having a loose clamp on the high pressure side, without the hose coming off. It doesn't take much to lower your boost? right? What I'm doing, is pro-active venting, not re-active venting. Stopping the problem before it becomes a problem. A wastegate, controls drive pressure, a blow-off valve controls boost pressure to a level to prevent blow back effecting the turbo. This is an entire different approach to the "conventional" methods today on gasser. Ok, Flame, bash, call me an idiot, I'll get the last laugh...
Last edited:
Steve, I like the idea and method of attack.
I can't wait to see it next weekend!
I can't wait to see it next weekend!
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
