Cavitation is more commom with liners, BUT you can have cavitation anyplace the water makes contact inside the engine.
Keep good anti-freeze in your rig and you will be fine.
Use distilled water or treated water because tap water varies throughout regions, and some contain more chlorides, sulfates and acids than others do (makes you thirsty, doesn't it).
Care must be taken so that corrosion doesn't take place... and even if you don't see it, it can still be there. The corrosion can cause scale to form, which will eventually build up and cause "hotspots" to form which can crack heads, burn valves and all kinds of other good things.
There are spin-on type filters containing borate chemicals. With this you get the water filtered and treated at the same time.
NALCOOL 2000 is a widely used treatment. It protects against rust, galvanic corrosion and foaming. The anti foam inhibitor is a must due to what we listed above. Engine vibration causes foam and bubbles, which leads to cavitation. Cavitation is nothing more than the bubbles in the water coming in contact with the metal in the engine and water pump and blowing up (imploding) causing pitting, which in time can eat a water pump up... . cavitation can be anyplace.
Cummins has a dry type chemical additive (DCA) for our engines. They will also sell you a kit to read the coolant like a chemist and decide how much more DCA to add.
Ethylene glycol based antifreeze has a boiling point of 223 deg, which is 11 deg higher than water. This means you don't have to worry much about ethylene glycol based antifreeze evaporating away. Ethylene glycol is good to go for any engine. It can be "beat" by the dry type additives that can be analyzed down to perfection.
The important thing to remember is, no matter what you use, you need to replace it every year or so. It will loose its anti rust/foaming and lubricating properties. It will still keep the water from freezing, but it wont treat the water any more.
Hope this helps.