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Rear tires or rear air bags? He was talking about suspension, not tires. I've got buddies that had manual air bags put on their truck from the dealer. But I get what he's saying now.


First sentence, "I factory ordered my 15 LongHorn DRW with air."

Second sentence, "First thing I noticed it was NOT the air ride system they were advertising"

I am not an English major but again seems clear to ME. :cool:
 
I don’t have any time in a 2500 with air, but I do have some miles in a 1500 with air and even then the 3500 with air is not much stiffer than the 1500. The 3500 with air does ride better over rough roads than a standard spring 1500.
As I said, I guess 'much stiffer' is subjective. On my test drives, there was a very noticeable difference to me. I was ready to order the 1 ton. Heck, it's only $1000 more. And realistically, given I don't drive it empty very often, maybe I should have. But the amount of rear end hop I experienced on the test drive made me stick with what I knew.
No, not even close. I figured you assumed this based on your comments.
Thanks
How heavy have you gotten? I’ve read more than a few accounts of the 2500 air suspension giving an overload message without being all that heavy.
Never had any overload message. I'm not even close to an overload on my 2500.
 
Last time I weighed my truck pulling my 24k RV with 6k pin along with MC Trailer and HD the rear axle on the truck weighed 10,130# and the top back bed corned was still 55" above flat ground.

Love the system as the truck sets level loaded or not.

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Being as you test drove a 3500 with I'm sure 80psi in the rears and probably that much in the fronts, it would ride like a bucking bronco! When aired to max pressure in both front and rears, it's like ice skating!
Could be. I was running the recommended tire pressure in my 18 at the time, 60 front/80 rear, IIRC. But tire pressure might have been a factor.
 
The Laufenns that I have on my truck like 65psi in the front and 55psi in the rears. Lower then 65 in the front was cause a bit more outside wear, so started to bring them up from 55 were I started. The rears are wearing dead flat and they are providing a great ride compared to the Transforces that were on it when I got it! Carry a load chart and air compressor in toolbox to adjust as needed. Sometimes you get that call to help pickup a trailer or load for someone who doesn't have a truck or big enough truck! :eek::D
 
That max pressure for max load, so it’s only the recommended pressure at axle weight ratings. The recommended pressure for other loads is lower.
Yep, thanks, well aware. But with the factory air in the 2500 and the great ride it gives, I just ran the rear tires up at 80 all the time. That way I didn't have to mess with it when towing, or put up with the low tire pressure message. Keep in mind, this is our hauler. Not a commuter.
 
Well, so you have a longer way to stop in case of an emercency and you'll fly out of a corner sooner - harsher ride is only one point with driving overinflated tires.
Quite a down trade in my eyes.
 
Yep, thanks, well aware. But with the factory air in the 2500 and the great ride it gives, I just ran the rear tires up at 80 all the time. That way I didn't have to mess with it when towing, or put up with the low tire pressure message. Keep in mind, this is our hauler. Not a commuter.

If you’re well aware why call it the recommended pressure? That’s the wrong term.

Improved ride is just one benefit from not running overinflated tires. Tires wear better, get better traction (accel and decel), and are less susceptible to flats.

There are certainly times where it’s unavoidable to run overinflated, but it’s also not difficult to adjust pressure for the load. I’m constantly changing tire pressure because the benefits far outweigh the slight amount of time it takes.

The low tire pressure message on 2500’s is annoying, but luckily AlfaOBD and other can easily fix it.
 
What the HE!! are you towing requiring 80psi???

It’s easy to need 80 psi on a SRW, thou 80 psi puts the tires capability above the RAWR on a 2500 (I don’t for a second thing that RAWR is anything but an arbitrary number).

I’ve bordered on needing tires with a higher LI than 125 a few times.
 
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If you’re well aware why call it the recommended pressure? That’s the wrong term.
I disagree. It's what is recommended by the manufacturer. Sticker is right on the door frame. I've owned a bunch of 3/4 ton's over the years, up until my 22, 80 for the rears was always what was recommended. There is no downside to running them there that I've ever experienced, so that's where I run them. I run good tires (replaced my Firestones on my 22 with 1000 miles on them) that wear perfectly at the recommended pressure.

Again, I only tow with it.
 
Well, so you have a longer way to stop in case of an emercency and you'll fly out of a corner sooner - harsher ride is only one point with driving overinflated tires.
Quite a down trade in my eyes.
They are at the manufacturers recommendations. I doubt they'd recommend dangerous pressures.
 
I disagree. It's what is recommended by the manufacturer. Sticker is right on the door frame. I've owned a bunch of 3/4 ton's over the years, up until my 22, 80 for the rears was always what was recommended. There is no downside to running them there that I've ever experienced, so that's where I run them. I run good tires (replaced my Firestones on my 22 with 1000 miles on them) that wear perfectly at the recommended pressure.

Again, I only tow with it.

You don’t have to agree with it, but it doesn’t make you right.

Door stickers are pressure required for axle weight ratings and sidewall markings have always been max load at max pressure, simple as that.

I already listed the downsides, don’t need to do it again.

They are at the manufacturers recommendations. I doubt they'd recommend dangerous pressures.


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Couldn’t resist :D


Decreased traction can certainly be dangerous.


It’s a good discussion, and all in fun.
 
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That max pressure for max load, so it’s only the recommended pressure at axle weight ratings. The recommended pressure for other loads is lower.

Empty I run 55/35 and loaded I run what’s needed.

I run a bit different unloaded ,60 /45 on my 3500 . It's a truck ,but not a bad ride when aired down . But a fifth wheel hooked up is where it shines , pretty smooth . :)
 
Running max tire psi is only needed to achieve max carrying capacity of the tire. As alluded to earlier, 80 psi is also the "recommended" pressure for 2500's, but 2500's can't even come close to carrying a load that necessitates 80 psi.

I think the problem is likely due to DOT and/or the NTSB not making a truck specific rule that can vary based on carried load, and just use one rule created for passenger cars, but not trucks designed to carry more than just occupants and luggage etc. It is a stupid requirement that is applied universally when it shouldn't be. The fact that it is "recommended" is not based on anything relevant useful.
 
Running max tire psi is only needed to achieve max carrying capacity of the tire. As alluded to earlier, 80 psi is also the "recommended" pressure for 2500's, but 2500's can't even come close to carrying a load that necessitates 80 psi.

I don’t know what year it changed, but 2500’s with 18’s and 20’s list 60 psi for all 4 corners now.
 
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That's good. My 2015 was 80. Thank goodness for Alpha, I set my threshold in the mid to upper 30's (can't remember for sure) in the rear. I generally run 40 psi unloaded but that's even more than needed for my unloaded truck, according to the Toyo inflation tables.
 
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