Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Any Tips to Replace a Timing Case?

[Greenleaf]

Hi guys,



I have a 1997 12 valve here at school with a split timing case. I have never had to R&R one. Are there any tips/short-cuts to perform such surgery? It appears to be a daunting task :{



I hope to pull the cam gear and NOT the cam I'll have to pull the air compressor too. That is where the case split at, right where the compressor flange in fastened to the aluminum case. A cast iron (two cylinder) air compressor mounted onto an aluminum case with power steering pump mounted to that



The dowel pin was sticking out pretty far



I guess I have no choice but to completely pull the injection pump too



Thanks for any help



Scott

 

[SRadke]

Give me a minute, I'll find you the instructions... ...

 

[SRadke]

Timing case R&R



That should do it for you. I posted a thread a couple years back with some Cummins part numbers and a few other odds and ends from when I did the job. I'll dig that up for you too.....



-Scott

 

[SRadke]

My other thread with part numbers etc Here.



-Scott

 

[Greenleaf]

Thank you! I have seen that thread in the past sometime ago. I was hoping that I would never have to do that, uhg. Oh well.



BTW and FWIW. I did just now locate the problem. When I installed the new air compressor one year ago, I ommitted the rear support to engine block cap screws. The aluminum case was supporting the entire weight of the two pumps.



Any of you guys ever have any left over parts? LOL



Thanks once again!!



Scott

 

[EBottema]

What is the reason for removing the camshaft??

 

[SRadke]

The gear is pressed on the cam so it can be neither removed nor replaced with the cam in place. The gear will not fit thorugh the hole in the back of the case.



-Scott

 

[EBottema]

But if your just doing a timing cover seal and tabbing the dowel pin, is it still needed to remove the cam?

 

[SRadke]

No. The cover can be removed without touching the cam. The cam only needs to be removed to get the case off. The injector pump will also have to be removed to accomplish this as shown in the link in post #2

 

[Greenleaf]

no, but to remove and install a NEW CASE it is. Cummins has a cam gear removal tool. I wonder it that will work like it says it will... ... . Then heat the gear in oven to reinstall it.



S

 

[SRadke]

My experience with the whole heat in the over to install thing hasn't been great. It never goes as slick as you'd like it to.

 

[Signal73]

FWIW, I dont know what your time frame is I see Timing cases on EBAY pretty often, usually by a seller that goes by "redlinear" I have bought a used cummins part off him and no problems with the transaction.

 

[PToombs]

Hey Scott, when you put the gear back on, make sure it goes ALL THE WAY.

I went to look at a loader that was making a squealing noise. Cummins had put on a new case and didn't get the gear on far enough. Then it worked back and forth and wore out the keeper until it could ride on the cover. Needless to say it was kinda expensive to pull the engine to replace the cam, gear, keeper, rear cam plug and other assorted parts.

Good luck on yer project!

 

[Will24]

If you are looking for tips, not suggestions, here ya go...



Make sure ya get the front oil pan bolts out before you try to remove the case

Stick a rag on each side of the gear case down at the pan before you try to pull the cam thrust bolts

If you put the support bracket back in for the compressor, you can leave the pump and compressor on

Pull the fuel lines, that's the only way to get to the back mounting nuts for the pump

The lower inner pump bolt is easier to get from underneath

Make sure you get ALL of the old gear housing gasket off, it can be a PITA

If you are pulling the gear, make sure you are VERY careful

When putting the gear back on, get the gear temp to 350 or so (infrared thermo), it will slide right on if it is warm enough, put a little lubriplate on the end of the cam to make life easier

make guide studs to hang the gasket before you try to install everything

Don't use a gasket on the front cover, use RTV, it lasts a lot longer

Use RED loctite on all of the inner gear case bolts, get the updated 11mm head bolts from cummins if ya can

Torque everything to 22 instead of 18





I'll post other things as I think of them.



-Will

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

I have several timing cases laying in my shop. Let me know if you wanna buy one. I'm really not sure what they are worth. Anyone else know? I've never replaced a timing cover either with the engine still in the truck, but couldn't you just cut the webbing around the cam gear and cut the new case to fit back tight or would this weaken it too much? Never tried it, just thought about it. A friend of mine pulled his gear and heated it in the oven to reinstall it. It was pretty easy.

 

[Bobcat698]

A shop that is fairly knowledable in working on Cummins did my gear case. They had the Cummins cam gear puller dropped off and pulled the gear. They put the gear in a ghetto pizza oven and then hurriedly tried to put it on back on my truck.



Took them about 5 tries to finally get it on.

 

[SRadke]

... Pull the fuel lines, that's the only way to get to the back mounting nuts for the pumpl... .

You can get to them with the properly bent wrench

 

[Will24]

I agree, but life is easier in some applications with the lines off, only take about 10 minutes on a P pump vehicle.



-Will

 

[DWitcher]

I've always pulled the cam so you know how the cam lobes and bearings are doing. Make sure the wood dowles are all the way in the tappets before removing the cam. A couple of long 3/8 drive extentions and a swivel socket works for me everytime on the pump nuts.

 

[Greenleaf]

Guys,



When I turn the engine to align the crank gear to cam gear marks... ... what do I do about the injection pump gear alignment? Don't worry about it? Just pull the gear? I was thinking I'd have to set the engine at TDC and time the pump at TDC as well with the timing pin? NO?



I'm confused about this step.



SCott