Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Any Tricks?

[GROBBINS]

Need to replace supply and return fuel lines, behind engine, I have them from Larry B's and I am getting frustrated trying to get my hands behind the fuel filter to disconnect them. Can anyone offer advise or experience to make this go smoother? thanks Gabe

 

[Signal73]

take the fuel filter clear off? 2 10 mm bolts and some banjo fittings. thats how it is on my 95 anyways i know your filter setup is a little different... 20 mins work will save a hours aggrevation...

also taking out the starter really opens things up from the bottom side... good time to replace your starter contacts. .

good luck, Jim

 

[dtygart]

Do you have the bacuum brake booster? If so, disconnect it from the mount on the firewall, leave the master cylinder and the brake lines hooked up and that will give you enough play to pull it over to the fender area where you can wire it in place.

david

 

[MLee]

Do it Joe's way

You probably have it done by now, But Joe Donnelly suggest to replace the over flow banjo bolt to a barb fitting and run the return hose over the top of the engine to the hard line. Much easier and less time consuming. Just leave all the old fittings in place, or remove them when you get time.

just my penny's worth.

Marv.

 

[Gene Arnold]

I did mine twice this year (long story). The second time was when I had the starter off for Larry Bs new contacts. Much easier to get at from below with the starter removed!



Gene

 

[BigPapa]

I did mine like Marv was saying except I didn't get the barb fitting. May not be the "proper" way but it worked. I replaced and re-routed my return line 3 years ago with some hose, 4 clamps, and basic tools in @ 30 minutes and she's still going strong. I took the return line loose at the injection pump (where the overflow valve is) and broke it off at the bracket by pushing it back and forth, then cut it off sqare and cleaned it up. Then I flipped it over and slid the new hose on and put two clamps on it. Then got under the truck and reached up as far as I could and cut the rubber line. Then I disconnected the steel line at the fitting, cut the steel line close to where the original rubber hose is connected, cleaned off the burrs, slid the new hose on and double clamped that end. Then reconnect the steel lines and drive on. Haven't had any problems.



Scott

 

[KAlder]

I have cut out the metal inner fender after you take out the plastic one. I removed the drivers front tire, then the plastic inner fender. then right behind the shock mount, cut the inner fender w/ a cut off wheel ( i cut an arc starting at thetop of the opening and curved down to the bottom so i end up w/ a 1/4 pie piece that you could pass a foot ball through). i think there was a wire i had to unfasten and tempararily move so i didn't end up cutting. nice little hole makes lift pumps easyer too. when done put plastic inner fender back in and you'll never see the missing piece. i put some touch up paint on the bare metal for corrosion resistance. the pie piece has one of the plastic rivet holes in it, but i dont think it will matter it is still pretty tight w/ all the other rivets.

 

[FDavid]

I did mine twice this year (long story). The second time was when I had the starter off for Larry Bs new contacts. Much easier to get at from below with the starter removed!



Gene

It also helps if notice the lines are 2 different sizes :-laf

 

[Deejayare]

If you've done one before, u can more easily do it the FSM way which is to remove the starter and do it from the bottom. Personally, I can understand KAlder's method. Cut that stupid fender. I actually considered removing the friggin' fender. I've heard LP is tough to get back on, so get studs or long bolts.



Let us know how u it goes.

 

[Gene Arnold]

It also helps if notice the lines are 2 different sizes

Oh, yeah! Guess how I know?



Gene

 

[MLee]

I did mine like Marv was saying except I didn't get the barb fitting. May not be the "proper" way but it worked. I replaced and re-routed my return line 3 years ago with some hose, 4 clamps, and basic tools in @ 30 minutes and she's still going strong. I took the return line loose at the injection pump (where the overflow valve is) and broke it off at the bracket by pushing it back and forth, then cut it off sqare and cleaned it up. Then I flipped it over and slid the new hose on and put two clamps on it. Then got under the truck and reached up as far as I could and cut the rubber line. Then I disconnected the steel line at the fitting, cut the steel line close to where the original rubber hose is connected, cleaned off the burrs, slid the new hose on and double clamped that end. Then reconnect the steel lines and drive on. Haven't had any problems.



Scott

As bigPapa has done his this way, I would suggest to cover the hose with wire loom cover to protect it from Chaffing and wearing through the hose. I covered mine when I replaced mine but mine is still in the original location. I believe that it might give it heat protection also.

just an idea

Marv.

 

[BigPapa]

Marv,



Yeah, I forgot to mention I split some heater hose and wrapped it. There is quite a bit of stuff for it to rub on.



Scott

 

[GROBBINS]

I was given 2 ft of hose but looks like I only need about a foot or less for each line. Does that sound right? The rest is steel braid or metal line from the tank. Stay in touch this may get ugly!

 

[surfbeetle]

Two feet is more than enough. I am waiting for my package from LarryB as well. I have done this three times before with regular hose. I finally heard about the marine grade hose when my starter went out last year from Larry B's website.



As for tricks, I have a tool I ordered on late night tv that is a yellow gun shaped hand squeeze ratchet with a long flexible extension. I use that to reach up and loosen/tighten the hose clamps. The first time I ever did it, the job was a nightmare as I didn't have a flexible extension. Good luck.

 

[Coalsmoke]

you guys are scaring me. I need to do mine too, but it almost sounds easier to sell the truck and buy a new one This is coming from a guy that used to work in an engine shop, what a pansy eh :-laf

 

[swhalen]

surfbeetle:

was this tool useful for the job? any indication on the tool of a supplier beyond "late nite tv". thanks steve whalen

 

[GROBBINS]

Got Her Done! Finally..... tools out until tools away was about 5 hours. And that is for an amature. Anyone with popeye arms might not be able to reach back around the master cylinder to get both hands on the job. Definitely have some bruised and scraped arms, but it's worth it to have my truck back to normal. Definitely have to remove the fuel filter and assembly. I also removed the starter, which I think I could have saved some time because it wasn't totally necessary. Was nice to have the room though. I wouldn't advise cutting the fender out, because even though you get a striaght line of sight you still need two hands to manipulate the hoses on to the metal ends. Thanks for all the help,... ... . I love you guys!!!! Gabe

 

[surfbeetle]

surfbeetle:

was this tool useful for the job? any indication on the tool of a supplier beyond "late nite tv". thanks steve whalen

I will have to look at the box when I get home this evening. I'll try to post a photo of it later.

 

[surfbeetle]

Here's a photo. All I could find on the box was Tool Mate Machine, made in china. I didn't find anything online about it. The yellow gun part is the squeeze ratchet and the long black shaft is a flexible extension. Hope this helps.

 

[GROBBINS]

a little stumble when cold

After I replaced the lines I needed to bleed the air out of the lines to get the engine started. Now only when it is cold, 10 degrees fahrenheit or so, as I am driving out of my driveway and up the highway it misses periodically a few times and then is fine once warmed. Do I need to bleed more air out of the lines?