Anyone "refresh" a rear dana 70? Shims, etc? How did it go?

[Niki]

I have a truck that the rear has a little more than usual freeplay, I was wondering if anyone has just reshimmed the pinion and the side shims and changed the bearings. Its not making any noise, so I figure the ring and pinion can be saved? Thanks

 

[Don Tanklage]

i just replaced the races in mine



it made a big difference



i didnt have the tool or the knowledge to try to adj it (there were no shims)



i think all it did was buy me some time tho



the pinion shafts are loose in the diff and i bet the spiders are loose on the shafts too... .

 

[EBung]

If you tear it down that far why not replace at least the carrier bearings? I swapped in a Power Lock at 45,000 miles and mine looked like they had 145k on em. jmo Just put the shims back where they were and you're good[under the side bearings and under the pinion bearing]

 

[DVolk]

Anyone "refresh arear dana 70 ? shims ,etc? Howdidit go ?

Around 170 K mine rear end went south a Dana 70 in my 92



It went fine I bought my parts from Randys Ring and Pinion

and I bought the intall kit they have videos and manuals and all tools needed



After calling around they had the best prices and service

 

[Greenleaf]

Yes, I replaced the carrier bearing sets. I used hogged out bearings to a slip fit for the shim adjust and used the blue goo for a contact pattern. I didn't have to touch the pinion.



PM me for more info if need be... ... ... ... ...



BTW, pulled the whole thing from under the truck and used new U bolts for the install. very easy.





GL

 

[Philip]

If you have a FSM it can walk you threw what your wanting to do.



If you don't have a FSM them it still can be done. Just ask for spec's.



On the pinion most of the time with new bearings you don't need to reshim. Just reuse the old shims and it falls back into the correct place. Make sure the pinion has the correct preload. The preload is set by adding or removing shims. The FSM has the spec for this. Do not reuse the old pinion nut



The carrier can get a little touchey on setup. Like Greenleaf said a spare set of bearings opened up for a slip fit will help a lot. This will let you play with shim selection for the "perfect fit".



If your old carrier just slips out with little effort. Make sure it doesn't go back in that easy. It will most likely hammer the bearings out and start spitting shims. When I set a carrier it normaly takes a 2 lb hammer and a block of wood to get it seated into position.



I replaced the bearings in my rear axle 7 years ago when I replaced it. I replaced all the bearings in Case500D's w250 about 6 years ago. I replaced the ring and pinion and a bearings in Dieselman359's W350 when Case500D had it. That W350 axle has about 4 years on it now with a lot of heavy towing also.



BTW the W250 was screaming real bad. After the new bearings and reset of clerances sounded as good as a new one.

 

[Niki]

I plan on changing all of the bearings, I was just a little unsure as to whether it would need new pinion and side shims to compensate for ring and pinion wear, since I don't plan on changing them unless they look bad. Instead of the 2# hammer installation method, has anyone tried a case spreader?

 

[EBung]

If you have access to spreader then by all means do it they work lovely. I dont and they are like $400

 

[Don Tanklage]

If you tear it down that far why not replace at least the carrier bearings?

i didnt think there was anything wrong with them



one of the races was just starting to chip so i replaced both of them



i didnt know there were shims behind the left brng



that makes sence now...



the adj must only be for in n out... duh



unfortunately, my buddy thats shop we did this at is obviously not very good



i do motors, not rear ends



he will never work on another one of mine



he knurled the housing rather than pullin the bearing and replacing the shims



thanks again tdr for letting me know the right way to fix something



don

 

[dpuckett]

In the FAQ (I think, dont hold me to that), there is an article by 1stGen4evr about rebuilding the D70. If it's not in the FAQ, look in the search, and go back to 02-04.



DP

 

[MMiller]

I just pulled the cover off a 160,000 mile 1990 with 4:10's. This truck has towed a high percentage of its life(not one of my trucks). It had end play in the carrier. I pulled out the carrier, and removed the ring gear side bearing with an air chisel. The thinnest shims were getting beat out. I needed a truck the next day(to haul the pulling truck, to a pull, just to get rained out) so I measured what was left of the shims, and put a stack of new shims in a little tighter then what I measured. Pounded the carrier back in, backlash was perfect, and filled it with oil. I have convinced the owner to let me install new carrier bearings, as the old races were just starting to flake. If I would not have pulled the carrier, the ring and pinion were going to meet a terrible demise. I will not likely mess with the pinion at this time.



Michael

 

[1stgen4evr]

"I will not likely mess with the pinion at this time. "



It has been my experience that if there is even minor metal on the magnet, there is already some detoriation of the bearings on the pinion. I think this derives from the fact that the pinion bearings are bathed by a flow of lube that is channeled from the sling off the ring gear. On two occasions when I didn't inspect the pinion bearings, I was back in the thing real soon. These were not catastrophic events as the pinion seal began to leak and from that I knew there was a problem.



Every time I get in my truck, I look under it for any thing that should not be there. Saved my fanny more than once.



James

 

[Don Tanklage]

wanna know how ignorant i am?



read my edited post above...



don