Anyone With Biodiesel Problems?

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The City of NY is mandated to use a minimum of B20. I've posted about this in the past.
I can't speak of how well it's winterized as it's dropped to us, but unless we overdose it with Stanadyne anti gel, were dead in the single digits. The main trouble we have is with our Macks that use a heated Davco water sep and a Donaldson 30u element. That sucker looks like a cool frying pan after frying a slab of bacon. Bring it in the shop and leave it in the pan, and it dissolves.
We have no SCR issues in our Fords, other than the usual occasional nox and def quality/ heater issues.
 
here you go, not sure why it is sideway, it correct on my computer:

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The manual above isn't kidding, but, short on details about going over 20% bio blends. Engine wear? Other vague warranty void "damage" warnings?

We have already touched on the bio isn't evaporating back out of the oil (#2 diesel will evaporate back out) thinning it out: engine wear.

As this is 4th gen you have emissions equipment to deal with. Post injection to clean the DPF as we noted in our 2008 Duramax on B99... A lot of the B99 went into the engine oil raising the oil level and the DPF regen cycle had a hard time completing. We were towing hard so we never clogged the DPF, but, running around the city to deliver parts we were in regen even after towing a grade to get there. Clogging a DPF because the regen isn't getting enough fuel out of the engine to burn it clean is a problem. The mandatory biodiesel blends going higher to 20% is why OEM's now use a dedicated exhaust injector on newer stuff. Clearly the cheap post injection system wasn't working out having oil dilution problems even on just #2 diesel.


Water in fuel. In case the need for a dedicated water separator wasn't made clear... ULSD adsorbs water. Biodiesel adsorbs more water than ULSD. Adding B5 fuel to B20 fuel that's saturated with water will drop out the water from the fuel as B less than 20 can't hold as much water. Adding #2 diesel to the pickup's tank of saturated B99 set off the water in fuel alarm as the water dropped out of the now diluted B99. Not saying you will run into saturated biodiesel, but, I am not totally useless as I serve as a bad example. You don't want to experiment with water logged fuel reaching your CP3 and ~$3500 injector set.

Commiefornia will cheerfully experiment with your expensive injection system via Emulsified fuels referred to as “water-in-fuel” emulsion: https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/engine_water.php
 
here you go, not sure why it is sideway, it correct on my computer:

Thanks for the addendum.

On the other posts. It appears my online search of B20 gelling at -15 degrees F are not supported by those who have used it in cold climates. Thanks for your input.
 
From what I understand there isn;t the same type standards on bio that are required on #2.in the US yet.A quick and easy test put a sample of your bio and another of your #2 in the freezer and check it every 15 minutes or so as it cools.You can shoot temps using an infrared temp gun
 
I've only gelled once to the point of not running and I had B20 in the tank. I also had enough additive in it for 35 gallons of #2 to operate but gelled BAD at -8°F.

I wont run B20 in the winter again.

I've ran B20 in the summer and like it. My mileage didn't change but the motor was quieter and ran the same.
 
I've only gelled once to the point of not running and I had B20 in the tank. I also had enough additive in it for 35 gallons of #2 to operate but gelled BAD at -8°F.

I wont run B20 in the winter again.

I've ran B20 in the summer and like it. My mileage didn't change but the motor was quieter and ran the same.

I saw an article that said antigen for petrodiesel doesn't work very well for biodoesel. A few companies make a specific antigen additive for B10 to B100.

The article also says that the winterization can differ widely depending on the supplier.

And according to Bob4x4 and JDoremire, not all B20 is the same as other B20. Just like not all B100 is the same as other B100. Sounds like a crap shoot unless you always use the same supplier? Because there are no accepted standards?

Now, I'm going to get a little off topic. I'm driving north to central Illinois in late Dec.-early january. How important is a winter front? I'm thinking of strapping some cardboard on the grill. And taking a little extra with me for when it falls off. Any cheap alternatives?

:-laf. :--)
 
I live in norther IL. and I do run a winter front from Nov1 to Mar 1. Why I like a truck that warms up fast and I also have the block heater. This too is plugged in over night, but to me this is more important than the winter front.

Both of my sons have Ram/Cummins trucks with no winter fronts. They do have the block heaters and use them.

I think for the short period you could get by with no winter front, the front just makes for a warmer truck and the coolant warms up faster thus the truck cabin heats up faster.

If you fill up at Meijer grocery stores that sell diesel fuel these will be bio free in the winter months. I asked a fuel tanker driver that was dumping diesel at the station I used. He stated that the distributor tried to use bio fuel the first time that it was mandated in the winter once. The results for the distbution plant was none of the tanker trucks would start on a very cold morning during the winter, no fuel deliveries that day. Since than they will not distribute or use bio diesel in the winter do to the gelling of bio diesel.
 
The winter fronts will keep you warmer in cab for sure,my 94 would never reach full operating temp in snow country with an open grill.The 3rd gen does a little better but will produce better heater performance with a partial cover.The cardboard would be fine if it is dry weather not so much if it gets wet.There was a member hear that made a clip to grill set of covers that was very easy to cover some or all of grill.The oem cover requires the install of snaps on the exterior-ok if you need them often I guess
 
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