Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Are my new mods suppose to be this loud??

[Clmsnow]

What do you guys mean by choke point?? Can you explain that for me a little more. I'll call HTT.

 

[TORQUE THIS]

Loose the comp, keep the 12cm housing, get a set of Mach4's and the caTCHER! Problems solved!!!!!!

 

[RacinDuallie]

Torque- Keep the 12 he doesn't have or keep the 14 that he has?

 

[TORQUE THIS]

OK, keep the 14... I really don't see there being a HUGE difference between the housings.



The caTCHER is far different from the comp in EZ mode! MUCH more low end.



If you still want more ponies, than get a BlueChip FMS or a TST PM3.



*When using the caTCHER, you must LEARN how to drive your truck all over again! You can not smash the pedal to the floor, you must roll into it!!! And then it's all *





"CHOKE POINT" TOO much fuel, not enough AIR! at a given point.





I also see he is trying to get some BIG tires rolling also!!!!!

 

[RacinDuallie]

OK, keep the 14... I really don't see there being a HUGE difference between the housings.

Good! I agree totally... . Keep the 14- add mach4's- Catcher-disconnect pump wire from Comp box-(keep box though-disconnect pump wire and it's an EZ)

 

[Clmsnow]

Yeah, I won't be ditching the Comp box anytime soon, and chances are I won't get the Catcher right now, but are you saying the Mach 4's alone with the current setting I have will help light the turbo sooner and stay safe on EGT's??

 

[R-N-R]

Good! I agree totally... . Keep the 14- add mach4's- Catcher-disconnect pump wire from Comp box-(keep box though-disconnect pump wire and it's an EZ)

For future reference...

A Comp without the wire tapped (or an EZ) = timing box. This is what conflicts with the "CaTCHer Standard" programming. A "Catcher Special" will work, but you might as well tap the wire and get the benefit from the Comp. Best bet seems to be: (swap the Comp for a) fueling only box like a TST, Blue Chip, or other and pair it with a CaTCHer Standard.



EDIT: I would like to upgrade from DD3s to M4s at some point in the future.

 

[RacinDuallie]

For future reference...
A Comp without the wire tapped (or an EZ) = timing box. This is what conflicts with the "CaTCHer Standard" programming. A "Catcher Special" will work, but you might as well tap the wire and get the benefit from the Comp. Best bet seems to be: (swap the Comp for a) fueling only box like a TST, Blue Chip, or other and pair it with a CaTCHer Standard.

EDIT: I would like to upgrade from DD3s to M4s at some point in the future.

Yes- Mach 4's would really wake up that B1-2 !!

 

[RacinDuallie]

Yeah, I won't be ditching the Comp box anytime soon, and chances are I won't get the Catcher right now, but are you saying the Mach 4's alone with the current setting I have will help light the turbo sooner and stay safe on EGT's??

Clmsnow-
Get them Banjos, and then Mach 4's. When you get ready to change the injectors I like to service the fueling system filter(s) along with the new injectors so your not running brand new injectors with old used filter(s)
The Mach 4's atomize the fuel plume much much better!! And the results are a more complete burn. This helps down early in the power- which helps to get that turbo spooling sooner.

when you get to the higher elevations remember the thin air- Air + Fuel = Power! In the thin air you are killing the power by overfueling- turn the box down or even OFF... ...



I am gonna now steer you to The Products and Acces. forum page-(Engine/Transmission section)- Look for Hohn's Thread titled : MACH 4's In- DD2's OUT--- Pretty impressed.....

It's just what your looking for- go read it! (Grasshopper!!)

 

[Clmsnow]

Thanks RD, I'll give it a read. And yes, the banjos are going on before any other power upgrades.

 

[RacinDuallie]

Dude, yer killin' me. Earlier in this thread you told him to keep the 14cm housing because he won't like the egts at full throttle. And now, in response to his concerns about low boost and high egts at altitude you suggest MORE FUEL? How's that supposed to help his egts? You're suggesting a 70+hp increase in fuel to help LOWER egts? You gotta be kidding me!

Not to mention the fact that the only time the extra fuel will make the turbo spool faster is when YOU ARE USING THE EXTRA FUEL. So partial throttle spool will remain the same (normal driving). But temps will rise faster because of the increased rate of fueling from the injectors. So he'll end up with a truck that has great spool and good cooling at full throttle, but still has lag and probably higher egts during partial throttle acceleration (especially at altitude). Nothing like having to lay into it and make a huge cloud of smoke from every stop to get the turbo to spool.

And the solution that WILL cool the midrange better, get rid of some of the lag, and will improve performance (increase boost) at altitude, and IS FREE, still hasn't been tried yet? I don't get it. I know it's cool to throw money and bigger/better parts at our trucks, but what's wrong with tuning what you have for the best performance? Especailly if it's FREE to try?

RD, I'm guessing "my garage" isn't anywhere near the mountains, cause if you've been there you'd know that more fuel isn't the answer (I've been there and tried different configs in case you're wondering). You need a tighter turbo. How about filling in your truck profile with your mods so we can see the direction that the advice is coming from, too?

PC- why don't you go read that thread too... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .
Make sure you read the part about hi altitudes (6000 ft).

 

[PC12Driver]

What part of that thread has anything to do with tuning the HTBG to Clmsnow's truck?



No kidding his truck is gonna spool fast; he's still got the stock HX35/12! And ya don't suppose the smaller turbo has anything to do with the good performance above 6000' do you? Been there, tested that. Different power levels, different turbo configs, trailer, no trailer. The 35/12 would allow me to pull any given hill usually at least one gear higher than with the bigger turbo and housing. So the fact that Hohn can get the response he does, and doesn't loose it at altitude using the stock turbo isn't news to me. The 35/12 is good for just about 350hp sustained (w/g'd at 32psi, she'll choke a little over 35psi). And the drop in performance as altitude increases is less with the 35/12, too. And this info is all from my testing. Where's your info from?



Didja catch the part about pushing the pedal down to quickly and blowing the fires out? What do you suppose will happen with those injectors and a larger turbo with more lag? (on an automatic with large tires, and sometimes at altitude where the air is less dense?)



But Hohn's note does tell me that if the temps are controllable with the stock turbo @ 21 psi, Clmsnow's truck shouldn't have any problem with the (free) 12cm housing and the HTBG @ higher psi's with the '4s installed.









Clmsnow - the choke point of a turbo happens when the volume of air created by the compressor and the combustion of the fuel cannot escape through the exhaust turbine fast enough and keeps the cylinders pressurized with hot exhaust gasses instead of the cool boost charge (high drive pressures vs. boost pressures). You can see it happen on the pyro; the needle will slow its climb as the turbo passes through it's efficincy range, and then begin to climb sharply again once the turbo begins to "choke". An HX35/12 with 40 psi of boost will have about 70 psi of drive pressure. That's an extreme example of "choke".



Too much fuel and not enough air is lag, not choke.

 

[Clmsnow]

If the HTBG is suppose to be rated to 425hp wouldn't it be out of range with the Mach 4's? I think the HTB2 is suppose to be rated 425-500hp. Wouldn't want to get out of my turbo range with bigger injectors. Which brings me to my next point... what temp(EGT) starts to be a concern?? Sure you can hit 1400* for a second, but where should I have my alarms set on my BD X moinitor and how long can I run the temps high? Currently have them set at 1280*. If the HTBG can handle bigger injectors... especially seeing as the EDM are suppose to run cooler then DD's, then great.

 

[Clmsnow]

Another turbo question. If my wastegate is set for 40psi and I am only running up to 35-36psi what does that tell me about my set-up? If it were 32 or 39psi what would that mean? Does it mean I need more/lesss fuel/air? Just trying to figure out how this all works.

 

[rivercat]

Does it mean I need more/lesss fuel/air? Just trying to figure out how this all works. [/QUOTE]

anyone?

 

[PC12Driver]

He has since re-adjusted his 'gate. The come set at about 40psi (about being the operative word). He just needed to fine tune his a bit.

 

[Lsfarm]

Drive pressure and turbo boost

What spins your turbo and creates boost is the drive pressure in the exhaust manifold spinning the exhaust wheel of the turbo. The amount of drive pressure is the combination of engine rpm and burnt fuel creating hot expanding exhaust gasses.



So if you are at 1500 rpm and only seeing 32 psi boost and high EGT's and you downshift, you will see higher boost [higher engine rpm] and lower EGT [more air from engine rpm for given fuel].



So if your wastegate is set for 40 psi and you are only seeing 35psi, you don't have enough fuel or rpm or both to create enough drive pressure to drive the turbo to higher boost levels. There is nothing wrong with not having enough fuel to push the turbo to full wastegate opening levels.



Hope this makes sense. Greg L

 

[Clmsnow]

Like PC stated, I adjusted the gate and I am now seeing 39psi boost, rather then the 36. It seems to run better all around this way. I have thought about some bigger sticks, maybe Mach 3. 8's or 4's, but for now it is running great. I rearely hit over 1300* on the EGTS with the Comp on kill. Granted it runs a little warmer on a hill or steep grade, but as for the flats, no problems one bit. When I go to the bigger stocks I'll leave the turbo just as it is to see what happens then upgrade to the HTB2 compressor if needed. And lastly, the 12cm runs much better then the 14cm housing I first had on there. .

 

[Rebel Ram]

When you speak of adjusting your wastgate for more boost, what are you doing? Its a spring pot with a line from compresor side. What is there to adjust? I am going through some turbo woes of my own so your input is valuable. I see 32 psi as an average high and as a max only seen a couple of times of 34.

 

[Cooker]

When you speak of adjusting your wastgate for more boost, what are you doing? Its a spring pot with a line from compresor side. What is there to adjust? I am going through some turbo woes of my own so your input is valuable. I see 32 psi as an average high and as a max only seen a couple of times of 34.

What turbo do you have stock?



One thing to keep in mind is more boost is not always better, nor does it always equal more HP.