Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) ARP Head Studs Retorque????'s

[biggy238]

I need to know what interval to retorque the studs on. . It seems like I read on here after the first heat cylce and then one retorque after 100 miles. Is that about right? I also have seen something about marking the nuts and watching to see if they torque past their previous point. Is that correct?



I had the paper that came with the studs but I left it at the machine shop because the ARP studs required the rocker pedestals to be machined for the washer and clearance.



Tell me what you all have been doing.



Thanks

 

[CumminsPower98]

You can read about what I did on my mods page a little over half way down under the heading "ARP Head Studs". http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm



I blew my first gasket because I didn't do enough re-torquing.

 

[biggy238]

Thanks. We Idled the engine up to temp and then let it cool and did a retorque.





ALL of my studs have 2 full threads sticking out of the nuts. I got the studs that require the pedestals to be machined rather than cutting the valve cover. I wondered if that would make a difference in the installed height.



I'm confused about your findings though. Did you wait 9000 miles before your second torque or did you do them after 270 miles. I thought maybe it was a typo and wanted to ask you.

 

[Graphic man]

You can read about what I did on my mods page a little over half way down under the heading "ARP Head Studs". http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm



I blew my first gasket because I didn't do enough re-torquing.

Nice work on the site!!!!!!!!!



it's cool to see you took the time to do that up nice with all the pics and the info on everything you have done to your rig!!



Scott

 

[CumminsPower98]

So far I have done three re-torques total. Ok, first re-torque was done soon after the gasket was done with 5 heat/cool cycles just driving around town empty. Next I got on the road (RV transporter) towing and it was 9k miles before I got home again at which point I did the second re-torque. I then drove around home 270 miles worth with lots of heat/cool cycles and did my third and current torque. Hope that clears it up.



Mark

Thanks. We Idled the engine up to temp and then let it cool and did a retorque.





ALL of my studs have 2 full threads sticking out of the nuts. I got the studs that require the pedestals to be machined rather than cutting the valve cover. I wondered if that would make a difference in the installed height.



I'm confused about your findings though. Did you wait 9000 miles before your second torque or did you do them after 270 miles. I thought maybe it was a typo and wanted to ask you.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Thanks, it's kind of a hobby of mine I suppose as I enjoy putting it together and maybe being able to maybe help someone at the same time.

Nice work on the site!!!!!!!!!



it's cool to see you took the time to do that up nice with all the pics and the info on everything you have done to your rig!!



Scott

 

[biggy238]

That is a nice site. And I understand now. RE-torque being the key word to what I read.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

You can read about what I did on my mods page a little over half way down under the heading "ARP Head Studs". http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm



I blew my first gasket because I didn't do enough re-torquing.

Nice write up and pictures on your site but I like the last question the best and the answer is yes I know that



Jim

 

[CumminsPower98]

Thanks guys for the nice words on the page. Yes, re-torquing is key as these studs don't stretch as much as the stock head bolts do so as the gasket settles, which it does quite a bit, the studs become loose. I was almost glad when mine blew the second time as I put in a . 010 over gasket the first time and later wished I had gone stock thickness.

 

[Timebomb]

Im Regreting The . 020 Over I Just Installed. 30deg Cold Starts Are A Little Tricky.

 

[Sandifer]

Anybody know the pattern to retorque the studs. And are they to be torqued to 125ft lbs?

 

[CumminsPower98]

I and many others go to 125 using the moly lube but I'm not an expert on this subject. I'm just doing what others have said works for them and so far it's working for me. I personally line torque when I re-torque starting at the right front corner, going down that row to the back and coming back up the next row and so on. Is this optimal, again I don't know but it's working for me so far.

 

[Sandifer]

Thanks 98. I have about 5000 miles since I had the studs installed and they haven't been retorqued yet. Reckon I should get to it huh?

 

[biggy238]

I've noticed alot of raw fuel on my starts. I'm not sure what for sure is the cause but I'm pretty sure it's the change in the spray pattern of the injectors into the fuel bowl

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I idled up my truck w/ the radiator blocked after my initial torque... got it up to 180 or so, then shut it down, got up the next morning and re-torqued. I messed up an injector when I installed my head, so I put some 215 injectors back in it... I drove the truck around for a few weeks, maybe 20 heat cycles or so? then re-torqued.



I have been doing by ARP specs and only torquing to 96ftlbs (98 last time actually) Read on here where a guy had a stud let go and shoot through the hood.



when I install my injectors, I'm planning on re-torquing to 110lbs or so and will mark the nuts/washers/etc.



it's been holding 45psi no problem, but w/ stock injectors, it's only making 1200* or so... I'm also installing a drive pressure gauge to keep an eye on that.



I know everyone is torquing to 120 w/ moly, but I've got to assume that when the engine heats up the fastener is right on the ragged edge of reaching the elastic point.



I will say that it is my possibly mistaken impression that w/ o-rings, often if you catch a leak soon enough, a re-torque will generally seal everthing back up as the leak is generally water and or oil leaking out or crossing and not a compression leak (due to the o-rings pressing so hard on the fire ring)

 

[FordCummins]

Ive only retorqued my studs once, after the initial heat cycle, and I havent had a single problem with leaks. Scheid told me to only retorque my ARP studs once, right after the heat cycle, and this had worked well for me so far. What issues are you guys having that you need to retorque your studs repeatedly?

 

[Timebomb]

I know everyone is torquing to 120 w/ moly, but I've got to assume that when the engine heats up the fastener is right on the ragged edge of reaching the elastic point.

I was thinking the same thing but I know a couple guys that go 140ft lbs. I myself went 125

 

[Jim Fulmer]

125 with ARP's is what I went to on another truck..... no issues!



Jim

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I was thinking the same thing but I know a couple guys that go 140ft lbs. I myself went 125

140 w/ moly or 30wt?



I did 120w/ 30wt when I first got it together, but successive retorques have been w/ moly

 

[CumminsPower98]

My first time around I went to 96 with moly as ARP recommended. I heated it up to operating temperature and then let cool to about 100 and re-torqued to 110 with moly. I then got on the road towing. Finally (within a month I think) while towing a 5th wheel in a strong cross wind in North Dakota it let go. I was not limiting my boost much at this point because I didn't think I needed too. I might have seen as high as 35 for short times but I did have a lot of sustained 25-30 probably. I stopped at the scale there in eastern MT for a permit and smelled antifreeze so popped the hood. Overflow tank was full and running over. Put that coolant back in and finished my trip to Canada and then back to UT keeping my boost below 20 and it never pushed anymore out. Soooo this made me really paranoid, which is why I went tighter and more re-torques the next time. I don't think I will torque them again since they were at 125 so maybe by now they have just a tad less on them and that is OK with me since they might be on the edge. ARP states that 96 with moly is 75% loaded if I remember right. My head had a fresh surface job too so I don't know, maybe I was just unlucky. I'm so paranoid now I dump my boost at 30 as I can't afford to be doing gaskets all the time since this is my money maker currently.