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ATS T/C Only Question???

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Finally broke down and spent the money on T/C only, plus total transmission rebuild from local shop. I love the converter. It really locks!



One question, I feel the transmission runs about 20 degrees warmer than before. Anyone else notice this without buying the V/B?



Thanks in advance.
 
its all in numbers

efficency = heat = no way around it



screw it stake seem to be the expert,
 
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Re: its all in numbers

Originally posted by Bob Wagner

efficency = heat = no way around it




Dude, that is BS!



heat: the movement of energy due to a difference in temperature.



if more heat is generated, then more energy is being wasted... . therefore it is LESS efficient!
 
Re: Re: its all in numbers

Originally posted by Diesel Freak





heat: the movement of energy due to a difference in temperature.






Ya got that one backwards.



Heat: the difference in temperature due to a movement of energy.



Or another way of saying it:



Heat: a byproduct of inefficient energy transfer.



When you have a source of mechanical energy (an engine), any energy that does not go DIRECTLY to making the vehicle move is either made into noise or heat. The latter being the bulk of the wasted energy. If ANY transmission were 100% efficient it would not need ANY cooling because it would never get warmer than the ambient temps.
 
Heat (physics), in physics, transfer of energy from one part of a substance to another, or from one body to another by virtue of a difference in temperature. Heat is energy in transit; it always flows from a substance at a higher temperature to the substance at a lower temperature, raising the temperature of the latter and lowering that of the former substance, provided the volume of the bodies remains constant. Heat does not flow from a lower to a higher temperature unless another form of energy transfer, work, is also present.
 
Cummins Corvette,

I thought you didn't like your transmission because it created so much heat. If what you said is true, you must have a very ineffecient TC.
 
hehe, this thread is starting to remind me of one a while back where a new Torque Convertor was only going to lose 6 HP in fluid coupling from a 300 HP engine under full load. :cool: :D
 
Originally posted by Diesel Freak

hehe, this thread is starting to remind me of one a while back where a new Torque Convertor was only going to lose 6 HP in fluid coupling from a 300 HP engine under full load. :cool: :D



Give it a 1900 RPM flash stall and I will take the first hundred off the line!!!!!! LOL.
 
Probe in factory transmission line, temps moving around 12k lb 5'er around 215, l-up 140 degrees, all in 85 degree hazy, humid weather. These both are about 10-15 degrees warmer than slipping 100k set-up.



No complaining here, I love this t/c over factory "thing". Just an observation, as un-scientific as I am. I picked this for 2 reasons. transmission shop recommended not increasing line pressure if can help it, and about same money w/o v/b from brand x, y, and z.



Pardon me for a stupid question, but, "If the t/c has a lower stall at idle, more efficient t/c, shouldn't it create a bit more heat at idle?" Also, who's to say the transmission line/cooler got some crap in it from flushing? Not necessarily defending anyone, just wanted to know if anyone else having same observation.
 
ctdodgeram, The lower stall will create more heat at idle(if its in gear),no doubt about it. With my DTT setup i run slightly hotter in stop and go/plowing situations,by about 10 degrees in the hot line,but on the road,in town,at speeds where it is in and out of lockup(30-40 mph backroads,the temps are down about 15 degrees,and they are exactly the same on the highway in lockup. When plowing,i never got it over 210 in the hot line,and i average 165-170 hot lline plowing with the standard pan. As long as you can confirm that the transmission isnt slipping i wouldnt worry about it running a few degrees hotter,if the ATS VB mods are at all like DTT's,they will increase oil flow,and engage clutches quicker,which will drop a few degrees in temps. This,and a DD pan would likey end all your cooling concerns. Congratulations,and enjoy your new transmission
 
I have the ATS TC & VB. Normal temps for stop and go traffic is 170. Thats with the probe in the pan. I have seen 190 once. Sounds like your temps would be about the same as mine. BTW, 215*, pulling a 12K lb 5'er in 85 degree heat in fluid coupling sounds good to me.
 
I have just ATS TC , I em running like 10 degrees more temps in city driving, but highway and towing same trailer, temps is like was before the instalation of ATS TC. I use the front pressure port for temps. sender. I will install the ATS VB, a controller and DD oil pan next week. Will be interesting to see how much temp will change.

M:cool:
 
Originally posted by StakeMan

I have the ATS TC & VB. Normal temps for stop and go traffic is 170. Thats with the probe in the pan. I have seen 190 once. Sounds like your temps would be about the same as mine. BTW, 215*, pulling a 12K lb 5'er in 85 degree heat in fluid coupling sounds good to me.



How come your probe/sender unit is in the pan and not the Hot Cooler line? I have always been told to take temp readings from the hottest point. :confused:



Kev
 
I have the complete ATS stage IV, with temp sensor in the Mag-Hytec, and I NEVER see temps above about 165. That's in So. Cal. summertime stop & go driving, without towing, but with about an extra 1000 lbs of equipt. fuel, etc.



The ATS valve body does a lot more than any other valve body out there. It is also easily installed. Did you call Don Ramer or Clint Cannon? These are good guys, they'll answer any questions you've got.
 
The main reason I put the temp sender in the pan is because I have heard of to many cooler lines breaking with probe port in it.
 
I guess I don't understand though Stakeman. I was always told not to put the probe/sender unit in the pan due to temp accuracy.



By the time the ATF get's to the pan it has already gone through the trans cooler and isn't really an accurate reading.



Prime example... if I say that I am running at 180* and you say your's is running 160*, which figure tends to me more accurate. . I guess I don't understand. Due to the fact that mine is measuring at the Hot cooler line.



It sounds like mine is running hot. But then the question comes up... is it really running hot or not? I kinda wish we had some way of clearifying this.



Do my questions make sense?? I'm just trying to clear up my own confusion I guess.



Kev
 
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