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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Auto Trans and Triple Disc Converters

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Stefan Kondolay said:
Justin,



I'm sure if someone asked my Dad (Bill @ DTT) if he would build them a TC with our stator and a Billet Cover/3 Disk he could, he just doesn't recommend the 3 disk because it hasn't held more power than the current DTT single and it weighs more which means it would be slower and will be harder on flexplates. But for those who want that he could build it and probably for the same price as what companies are charging for the Mexico stators 3 disk TC. :eek:



We build custom stuff for guys all the time all someone needs to do is ask.



Stefan, I figured the same thing about the weight and it costing HP. But I was proven wrong on my own dyno.
 
Gene,



For what it's worth Diesel Transmission Technology is an American Company, Bill's partner is American and that's why our warehouse are in the US, and our machine shops are in the US, and I would say the only reason that we aren't completely in the US is because my Dad is a Diabetic and our medical plan in Canada is a little better, although our taxes suck.



David I didn't say that you would loose HP I said that it would be slower, by that I meant that accelleration would be slower.
 
Originally Posted by Stefan Kondolay

He just doesn't recommend the 3 disk because it hasn't held more power than the current DTT single and it weighs more which means it would be slower and will be harder on flex plates.





So you are saying that if we put a DTT single and multi disk on a CONVERTER ONLY dyno and feed both with equal pressures. Then apply lock up, the DTT single will hold as much as a multi disk TC?????



???????????????????????????????
 
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Stefan Kondolay said:
Gene,





David I didn't say that you would loose HP I said that it would be slower, by that I meant that accelleration would be slower.



Wouldn't slower mean a HP loss. You have me :confused:. How can we be slower with the same hp?
 
I know of a certain ford with an ALUMINUM flexplate that came apart on chunks. I wonder where he got it?



If the flex plate isn't strong enough make it out of better material.



Mine looks like this...



#ad
 
Funny thing about that flexplate is a certain company that is trying to launch there own flexplate had it break in there shop, and it had absolutely no rotational damage ( basically by SFI's ruling and obvious if you look at it, it couldn't have broken with the engine running), and that was ruled by SFI as we sent them the flexplate. So as far as that goes something seems fishy there.



Justin,



As far as putting our TC on a dyno go for it, fact of the matter is that nobody is over powering a DTT TC in there truck.
 
Justin,



You said that you ran a Billet Single Disk TC with a DTT stator was it one of the one that we sold art carr for there TC's, cause we have never built a TC with a Billet cover for the Dodges?
 
Stefan Kondolay said:
Justin,



You said that you ran a Billet Single Disk TC with a DTT stator was it one of the one that we sold art carr for there TC's, cause we have never built a TC with a Billet cover for the Dodges?





Nope. I bought a DTT converter from a guy that had the clutch to piston bond fail on him. I then put that stator in one of the first suncoast billet converters.



As far as putting our TC on a dyno go for it, fact of the matter is that nobody is over powering a DTT TC in there truck.



Everyone here knows that a mutli disk converter will handle more rotational force in lock up then a single disk.



Ever wonder why over-the-road "big rigs" have dual disk clutches???



Why do all the leading truck pullers run a dual disk???
 
i for one have never heard of anyone slipping or over powering a dtt tc, dtt's tc simply works and works very well, so well that i have bought 2 trans (first one didnt have billet parts, but worked great). as dtt always says they address the entire trans, not only the tc but every part of the trans is upgraded that has ever failed. to my knowledge you are going to slip the smaller clutches of the drive packs before you slip the tc, given something else doesnt fail in the trans. common sense as well as other things will tell you that more PSI will increase holding power of a given object. witht he trans as power increases (throttle pressure, ie lead foot) you can watch the pressures increase therefore increasing holding force on the object. i personaly like that idea as opposed to relying on friction to hold my power. many great and wise men have told me if it aint broke dont fix it (many clutches, (ie tc or manual clutches) in many heavy duty applications are single disc and work very well and are very reliable. ), and just like the 12v's keep it simple and keep it reliable. to each his own, that is what makes the world go round.
 
Bandit1 said:
(throttle pressure, ie lead foot) you can watch the pressures increase therefore increasing holding force on the object. i personaly like that idea as opposed to relying on friction to hold my power. many great and wise men have told me if it aint broke dont fix it (many clutches, (ie tc or manual clutches) in many heavy duty applications are single disc and work very well and are very reliable. ), and just like the 12v's keep it simple and keep it reliable. to each his own, that is what makes the world go round.





Every single trans vender out there increases the clutched in the primary drive (3rd gear) and the OD unit.
 
last time i heard ats advertises less of an increase ( i could be wrong, have been before), matter of fact when they first became big i know that they advertised no increase in pressures, they solved the problems other ways. i have not kept up with auto trans debates, to many politics. mine runs better than expected and that is all i ask.
 
justinp20012500 said:
Everyone here knows that a mutli disk converter will handle more rotational force in lock up then a single disk.



I agree this is true, but why care if it handles more if we have not yet reached the limit of a properly setup single disc? Why pay extra for something that is not needed? Until we reach a point where a single disc is inadaquate, I personally see no reason to pay more for a triple.



That is how I personally feel about the single disc vs. triple disc debate. As far as stators and fluid coupling efficiency is concerned, that is another topic alltogether but IMHO it is more of an issues of personal preference for us "daily drivers" than it is about overall performance.



I would like to add this has been a very interesting thread to read and I am glad it has been kept at a level where it did not have to get locked down. It has been quite some time since we had a lenghty, techincal discussion about transmissions.
 
Cooker said:
I agree this is true, but why care if it handles more if we have not yet reached the limit of a properly setup single disc? Why pay extra for something that is not needed? Until we reach a point where a single disc is inadaquate, I personally see no reason to pay more for a triple.



I already said that I can make a multi disk TC about the same price as a DTT single.



Maybe some of the sled pullers can chime in here. What is the personal choice of TC they use??? And why are they using it?





Justin
 
justinp20012500 said:
I already said that I can make a multi disk TC about the same price as a DTT single.



You are certainly the exception. The triple disc that I have seen from the most common vendors are well over $1000.
 
ok, now i am confused :confused: for a while it looked like most agreed on a triple disc, and now it looks to be swinging to a single disc. does one live longer than the other? or is it just easier on the rest of the transmission to have a triple? at first i thought i went wrong with a single but after seeing this and talking to others i think i am going to like my single. not to stir the pot but how do you guys think a gorends single disc compares to the rest? the short time i drove it it was awsome and loved it ( clutch packs gave up after 250,000 miles on stock transmission) so i am going with a gorends complete transmission. right now it stalls at about 1500-1600 and works great with my motor (225hp). but if i go to the 350hp mark will it still be ok? or maybe even over that to the 450hp line. i just dont want to make a mistake and would like to learn as much as i can about these autos in the process.



thanks guys

matt
 
the higher the HP and TQ you go the tighter the TQ you want ..... to a point.

EX. IMO

a 89% works great until about 500hp+

after that you may want a 91%



keep in mind no matter who builds what, it can be broken!!!

so to say one is better that the other, i think it is what you prefer

IMO you will be happy no matter who's converter is in your truck as long as they have a good warranty
 
"the higher the HP and TQ you go the tighter the TQ you want ..... to a point.

EX. IMO

a 89% works great until about 500hp+

after that you may want a 91%



keep in mind no matter who builds what, it can be broken!!!

so to say one is better that the other, i think it is what you prefer

IMO you will be happy no matter who's converter is in your truck as long as they have a good warranty"



ok i get that much, i was just wondering where the converter stood in comparison to others. the one i got is a single disc graphite lined converter. just would like to see what people would rate them as compared to say a dtt, dunrite, ats, suncoast, ect... . how do i know how tight mine is, probably call dave duh. i am just looking for info as to when to stop building the motor.



matt
 
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