I'll second that. GO SCOTT!!! Funny how when you try to help out with something that has worked for you, someone will chime in and ... well you know what I mean.
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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) auto transmision
- Thread starter vc
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Shendren--
Do not misconstrue me. I NEVER said that pulling the wires out of the harness couldn't be a possible solution. Nor did I say that it should not be tried. What I took offense at was the underlying tone (of your MULTIPLE posts) that "I guarantee I know what your problem is, ignore the advise and suggestions of others, they're just blowing smoke up your a$$. Why would my suggestions/opinions/experience be any less valid than yours or anyone elses? I think it is safe to say that we are all trying to help. Note that I said I would NOT buy any component until it was proven defective. You said I would have spent a lot of money on all those expensive parts for no reason. How so? Nothing was replaced until proven defective.
My issue is not that seperating the wires out of the harness wouldn't solve the problem. Indeed, it may. My issue is your assertion that that is the only possible solution and no other avenues should be pursued. That would be a disservice to all users of this forum.
Do not misconstrue me. I NEVER said that pulling the wires out of the harness couldn't be a possible solution. Nor did I say that it should not be tried. What I took offense at was the underlying tone (of your MULTIPLE posts) that "I guarantee I know what your problem is, ignore the advise and suggestions of others, they're just blowing smoke up your a$$. Why would my suggestions/opinions/experience be any less valid than yours or anyone elses? I think it is safe to say that we are all trying to help. Note that I said I would NOT buy any component until it was proven defective. You said I would have spent a lot of money on all those expensive parts for no reason. How so? Nothing was replaced until proven defective.
My issue is not that seperating the wires out of the harness wouldn't solve the problem. Indeed, it may. My issue is your assertion that that is the only possible solution and no other avenues should be pursued. That would be a disservice to all users of this forum.
Torque converter UNlock switch. besides my upped line pressures, my auto is stock. i have the unlock switch to keep the tc unlocked under 70mph. i can slip the lock up clutch easy (not as easily as before), but i've never had it shudder. i obviously don't want to get to that point to where it shudders. running 1100rpms is lugging that clutch, even under stock power with little or no acceleration. i'd recommend to keep it above 1500 rpms.
update
This past Friday I gave the tps a contact cleaner bath while working it back and forth, plus I disconnected the wire harnes and sprayed the plug and the receptacle. Then I partially pulled the wire out of the loom like shendren said and put it in its own loom. Then I did the tps voltage check as described in the manual and the voltage at idle position was a little low - . 77. The book said 1. 0 +/- . 2 . The manual also said that it should go up to an additional 2. 2 - 2. 4 volts over the reading at idle. Mine did this . I checked the lever adjustment at the tps and the manual said to be in adjustment it needs be 5" from throttle ball center to rear of lever bracket. Mine was 5 and 3/16. I adjusted that to the 5" and rechecked volts. Now 1. 0 at idle, 3. 3 at wot. So that checks ok. Today I tow my boat to the boat ramp and on the interstate at steady speed I get to a bridge and it goes up from 1825 rpm's to 2000 rpm's to maintain speed. Then on strait and level I give the accelerator a little goose and same thing happens. What is the consensus on this?
I think the tc is starting to slip as I originally speculated.
Thanks.
vc
This past Friday I gave the tps a contact cleaner bath while working it back and forth, plus I disconnected the wire harnes and sprayed the plug and the receptacle. Then I partially pulled the wire out of the loom like shendren said and put it in its own loom. Then I did the tps voltage check as described in the manual and the voltage at idle position was a little low - . 77. The book said 1. 0 +/- . 2 . The manual also said that it should go up to an additional 2. 2 - 2. 4 volts over the reading at idle. Mine did this . I checked the lever adjustment at the tps and the manual said to be in adjustment it needs be 5" from throttle ball center to rear of lever bracket. Mine was 5 and 3/16. I adjusted that to the 5" and rechecked volts. Now 1. 0 at idle, 3. 3 at wot. So that checks ok. Today I tow my boat to the boat ramp and on the interstate at steady speed I get to a bridge and it goes up from 1825 rpm's to 2000 rpm's to maintain speed. Then on strait and level I give the accelerator a little goose and same thing happens. What is the consensus on this?
I think the tc is starting to slip as I originally speculated.
Thanks.
vc
Re: update
When you give it a little throttle, it slips. What happens if you give it *more* throttle? Does it stop slipping?
On the way to Briar's Dyno Day, mine was slipping a *lot*. But it always *stopped* slipping once I pushed the go pedal closer to the wood. After I arrived there, I adjusted the TV cable by about 1/4". Now it's back to the 50 RPM slippage under certain conditions. I might try another 1/4" and see what happens.
Basically, I (and you) don't have enough pressure to keep the TCC locked. Transmission service *is* called for. But, in my case, it will have to wait until I acquire some more cash. Until then, I'll baby the trans as needed to minimize the slippage.
It's been slipping since I switched to Amsoil. (And switched to 215 injectors. ) That's almost 30K miles. The trans fluid looks and smells OK.
Since I've had almost *no* major problems appear and no major maintenance that had to be done in 120K miles, I'm not about to complain about the truck. I still jump in the truck and drive cross-country without a second thought about the truck. It gets me there and it gets me back. Every time.
When I get the cash, I'll have Tom do up the trans. Until then, it'll keep working.
Fest3er
When you give it a little throttle, it slips. What happens if you give it *more* throttle? Does it stop slipping?
On the way to Briar's Dyno Day, mine was slipping a *lot*. But it always *stopped* slipping once I pushed the go pedal closer to the wood. After I arrived there, I adjusted the TV cable by about 1/4". Now it's back to the 50 RPM slippage under certain conditions. I might try another 1/4" and see what happens.
Basically, I (and you) don't have enough pressure to keep the TCC locked. Transmission service *is* called for. But, in my case, it will have to wait until I acquire some more cash. Until then, I'll baby the trans as needed to minimize the slippage.
It's been slipping since I switched to Amsoil. (And switched to 215 injectors. ) That's almost 30K miles. The trans fluid looks and smells OK.
Since I've had almost *no* major problems appear and no major maintenance that had to be done in 120K miles, I'm not about to complain about the truck. I still jump in the truck and drive cross-country without a second thought about the truck. It gets me there and it gets me back. Every time.
When I get the cash, I'll have Tom do up the trans. Until then, it'll keep working.
Fest3er
slipping
After all you have done, I'd say you definitely have a slipping lockup clutch. You might gain some time until you can do the full rebuild by installing the linkage sold by BD that fools the transmission into providing more pressure at lower throttle positions. I think it is called torque lock or something similar.
After all you have done, I'd say you definitely have a slipping lockup clutch. You might gain some time until you can do the full rebuild by installing the linkage sold by BD that fools the transmission into providing more pressure at lower throttle positions. I think it is called torque lock or something similar.
vc--
With all due respect to Shendren, I still believe the nature of your symptoms suggest mechanical trouble, not electrical. Shendren suggests his fix is a "no cost solution". Maybe. But if I am right, I believe, and others have suggested, that you may indeed make your repair even more expensive by chewing up the transmission when the torque convertor is spewing its guts out into the transmission.
I still believe your TCC is slipping. More line pressure would help, but alone it is a band-aid fix. The Dodge transmission gets a bad rap and it is largely undeserved. The real problem when hopping up the power is overloading the TCC. It is only about 9 inches in diameter. My Toyota has a larger manual clutch disc (about 11 inches) and has to hold a killer 140 lbs-ft of torque.
I have personal experience with the BD convertor but I have to admit, based on the experience of 2 close friends (whose trucks I have driven) that the best money spent is for an ATS Triple-Loc convertor. But, (big suprise) it is the most expensive. ANY of the high-perf convertors are FAR superior to the stocker.
I have two '94 Cummins Turbo Diesels with a combined mileage total of 318,000 miles. My trailers include a 16 foot utility gooseneck and a 28 foot special purpose gooseneck, both which at times GVW out at 25,000 to 28,000 pounds. I do all my own maintenence, the only thing I won't do is bodywork. I believe this gives me some authority to speak intelligently on this subject.
vc, as always, this is my opinion and it, along with a quarter, might still get you a cup of coffee. I feel confident that you have done all you can do to rule out a low cost solution. The evidence now points to the torque convertor, and like health problems, those ignored usually end up becoming more serious.
Good luck!
With all due respect to Shendren, I still believe the nature of your symptoms suggest mechanical trouble, not electrical. Shendren suggests his fix is a "no cost solution". Maybe. But if I am right, I believe, and others have suggested, that you may indeed make your repair even more expensive by chewing up the transmission when the torque convertor is spewing its guts out into the transmission.
I still believe your TCC is slipping. More line pressure would help, but alone it is a band-aid fix. The Dodge transmission gets a bad rap and it is largely undeserved. The real problem when hopping up the power is overloading the TCC. It is only about 9 inches in diameter. My Toyota has a larger manual clutch disc (about 11 inches) and has to hold a killer 140 lbs-ft of torque.
I have personal experience with the BD convertor but I have to admit, based on the experience of 2 close friends (whose trucks I have driven) that the best money spent is for an ATS Triple-Loc convertor. But, (big suprise) it is the most expensive. ANY of the high-perf convertors are FAR superior to the stocker.
I have two '94 Cummins Turbo Diesels with a combined mileage total of 318,000 miles. My trailers include a 16 foot utility gooseneck and a 28 foot special purpose gooseneck, both which at times GVW out at 25,000 to 28,000 pounds. I do all my own maintenence, the only thing I won't do is bodywork. I believe this gives me some authority to speak intelligently on this subject.
vc, as always, this is my opinion and it, along with a quarter, might still get you a cup of coffee. I feel confident that you have done all you can do to rule out a low cost solution. The evidence now points to the torque convertor, and like health problems, those ignored usually end up becoming more serious.
Good luck!
shendren,
I have not grounded out any wires. What will this do?
Dually Dean,
I believe that my tc is slipping, although only when under the added burden any bridges I come across give the truck while towing my boat which could weigh as much as 8840 lbs when the fuel tanks are full. I will have to wait until the first of the year for any major expense like tc/vb will be, so I plan on minimal towing until then. Since it is not that long away, I may pass on the line pressure band aid as I have no slippage showing when not towing. Until then though, I can and will try suggestions like shendren has put in this thread since it can only eliminate possibilities.
vc
I have not grounded out any wires. What will this do?
Dually Dean,
I believe that my tc is slipping, although only when under the added burden any bridges I come across give the truck while towing my boat which could weigh as much as 8840 lbs when the fuel tanks are full. I will have to wait until the first of the year for any major expense like tc/vb will be, so I plan on minimal towing until then. Since it is not that long away, I may pass on the line pressure band aid as I have no slippage showing when not towing. Until then though, I can and will try suggestions like shendren has put in this thread since it can only eliminate possibilities.
vc
vc--
sounds like you are catching it in the early stages if it only happens when towing and even then only when going uphill. I babied mine while towing all of one summer and it lasted untill the fall when I could take it off the road for a week, although by that time I could slip it without a load and I had also damaged the overdrive clutch pack. Thats what I mean by the problem getting more expensive if you ignore it too long. I don't think you will have a problem if you lay off the towing, and I would suggest a fluid and filter change sometime before then to help keep the valve body from plugging up with clutch material.
Shendren has told you how to manually signal the converter to lock up. It is the same thing the infamous mystery switch does. If you ground that wire, you complete the circut to the solenoid that engages the TCC. If you do this and your problem goes away, Shendren is right and I am wrong--the problem is electrical due to a bad TPS, wire, or connector. If the problem remains it means a thinner wallet in your back pocket.
One note--If the wire remains grounded while you try to stop, the TCC will not unlock and the transmission will not downshift. It would be like stepping on the brake in a manual transmissioned truck without stepping on the clutch.
Good luck, and practice some restraint on the loud pedal until you get that thing straightened out!
sounds like you are catching it in the early stages if it only happens when towing and even then only when going uphill. I babied mine while towing all of one summer and it lasted untill the fall when I could take it off the road for a week, although by that time I could slip it without a load and I had also damaged the overdrive clutch pack. Thats what I mean by the problem getting more expensive if you ignore it too long. I don't think you will have a problem if you lay off the towing, and I would suggest a fluid and filter change sometime before then to help keep the valve body from plugging up with clutch material.
Shendren has told you how to manually signal the converter to lock up. It is the same thing the infamous mystery switch does. If you ground that wire, you complete the circut to the solenoid that engages the TCC. If you do this and your problem goes away, Shendren is right and I am wrong--the problem is electrical due to a bad TPS, wire, or connector. If the problem remains it means a thinner wallet in your back pocket.
One note--If the wire remains grounded while you try to stop, the TCC will not unlock and the transmission will not downshift. It would be like stepping on the brake in a manual transmissioned truck without stepping on the clutch.
Good luck, and practice some restraint on the loud pedal until you get that thing straightened out!
Last edited:
DuallyDean,
so if I understand you guys correctly, while I'm in the cruise mode on the interstate I ground this wire - and I'll assume that the tc was already locked - and then goose the go pedal or wait to the next bridge and if I don't see the rpms change then it was electrical, but if I still have an rpm change then it's mechanical(tc)?
Where do I find and tap into this wire for grounding?
If I have a tc slipping, until I get a new one can I force it to stay unlocked via doing something with another wire and would this have other consequenses besides having to drive slower?
Thanks guys.
vc
so if I understand you guys correctly, while I'm in the cruise mode on the interstate I ground this wire - and I'll assume that the tc was already locked - and then goose the go pedal or wait to the next bridge and if I don't see the rpms change then it was electrical, but if I still have an rpm change then it's mechanical(tc)?
Where do I find and tap into this wire for grounding?
If I have a tc slipping, until I get a new one can I force it to stay unlocked via doing something with another wire and would this have other consequenses besides having to drive slower?
Thanks guys.
vc
grounding wire for lockup
I hate to muddy up the water too much, however the 'mystery switch' change does one other thing besides grounding the black/orange wire - it also bypassed the relay that provides a ground to the lockup clutch. I no longer have a refference manual, so I don't know offhand how that may affect the results. I guess it is still worth a try.
From the description of your problem, I would go with the mechanical problem, i. e. the actual lockup clutch is slipping due to a physical weakness not electrical.
I hate to muddy up the water too much, however the 'mystery switch' change does one other thing besides grounding the black/orange wire - it also bypassed the relay that provides a ground to the lockup clutch. I no longer have a refference manual, so I don't know offhand how that may affect the results. I guess it is still worth a try.
From the description of your problem, I would go with the mechanical problem, i. e. the actual lockup clutch is slipping due to a physical weakness not electrical.
vc--
phoekema & jwalton are right. I own '94 Rams. I know the method to lock the TCC changed, I believe with the '98 models. The TST site has the schematics. You won't really have to drive slower (for the same speed you would need to increase about 150-200 rpm) however, trans temps can get out of hand if you don't watch out. It sucks, but frequent oil and filter changes will go a long way to minimizing trans damage until you get it fixed.
phoekema & jwalton are right. I own '94 Rams. I know the method to lock the TCC changed, I believe with the '98 models. The TST site has the schematics. You won't really have to drive slower (for the same speed you would need to increase about 150-200 rpm) however, trans temps can get out of hand if you don't watch out. It sucks, but frequent oil and filter changes will go a long way to minimizing trans damage until you get it fixed.
Debree in transmission pan
I just changed my fluid and pan gasket/filter last week, and noticed in the pan that there where 6 golden metalic rounded slivers of material anywhere from 3/4 of an inch to 1. 5" and alot of flakes, along with some aluminum flakes. At first I thought it was metal but wasn't, more like clutch material. As bad as I hate to ask, Does this sound like my TCC is going out, or both transmission and tc? My TCC locks up earlier going into 3rd gear lockup and shudders bad and strains the engine with the OD in the "off" position, but doesn't when it's in the OD "on" position and shifts smoothly all the way through 3rd lockup and 4th lockup... .
?
I just changed my fluid and pan gasket/filter last week, and noticed in the pan that there where 6 golden metalic rounded slivers of material anywhere from 3/4 of an inch to 1. 5" and alot of flakes, along with some aluminum flakes. At first I thought it was metal but wasn't, more like clutch material. As bad as I hate to ask, Does this sound like my TCC is going out, or both transmission and tc? My TCC locks up earlier going into 3rd gear lockup and shudders bad and strains the engine with the OD in the "off" position, but doesn't when it's in the OD "on" position and shifts smoothly all the way through 3rd lockup and 4th lockup... .
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
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Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
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