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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Auto. won't shift from 1st to 2nd

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My brother-in-law just traded his Cheby (which was having trans. problems) for a 2000 Dodge 3500, Cummins and auto. He's had it about 2 months now. A couple days ago, he was leaving work and it wouldn't shift from 1st to 2nd without letting off the throttle. It would run up to 2500rpm and not shift. 2nd to 3rd shift is fine. The trans pulls fine, doesn't slip, it just won't shift from 1st to 2nd.



He carried it by the Dodge dealer and $75. 00 later was told that it didn't set any codes, the pressure was fine at the governor and the trans needed overhauled. Then the guy tells him that he can try changing the governor and transducer and it might work. I told him not to do anything yet untill I asked you guys. The way I see it, if the trans needs overhauled, then just changing parts won't work.



What's the problem?
 
No mods. Everything is stock. I figure it's got to be something electrical keeping it from shifting. It pulls fine, doesn't slip and shifts through the other gears with no problem.
 
Transducer problems often cause hunting between 1-2 and delayed 1-2 shifts. But it would show up during a governor pressure test if they could simulate the problem during the test.



Does it occur on every shift or is it something that comes and goes and might have worked fine during the road test?



When a mechanic tells you he can't find a problem but it needs an overhaul. And then comes back to say, but maybe "this" will fix it. That means he has no clue. I often wonder how some people

keep their jobs. :mad:



If it's a sporadic problem it's most likely a transducer issue.









































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It happens every time it's driven. It even happened when him and the tech took it out for a test drive. My brother-in-law drove and as soon as he let of the go pedal and it shifted, the tech said it was the governor.
 
I have the same problem with the 2-3 shift it will not shift unless you let off from the go pedal. I did ajust the front band and that made no diffrence. the strange thing is if I put the truck in reverse and hold my foot on the brake for a few seconds then go to drive or overdrive then take off it shifts perfect untill i stop.
 
What are his governor pressure reading? Did you look to see how tight the TV cable is adjusted? Could be this simple, or atleast rule out the quick easy ones first.



When I had a problem once with the 2-3 shift I replaced the electronics in the transmission but that didn't fix it. Turned out the shift linkage was adjusted to tight, so when I was in drive the linkage was actually between 2nd and 3rd causing the transmission to shift back and forth.
 
24V, adjust the front band. If it set no codes and the Gov check is OK odds are very good that the front band is loose/worn/broken. If the band is worn badly the problem will come back pretty soon. If it does come back in a couple thousand miles stop adjusting it and live with the problem until the trans can come out for a rebuild, it is glazed and is not going to hold no matter what you do. If you keep adjusting it after it is worn to a point you will trash the drum it holds and put a lot of ferrous metal into the trans.



DO NOT hold the power when it hangs, let off for the 1-2 shift EVERY time ON time. It can live a LONG time the way it is, but if you hammer it when it is hanging it won't live very long at all.



EDIT: BrandX, the front band has nothing to do with 2-3. Adjust the rear band, odds are not good that it is your problem but it is possible. Change the filter and make sure the fluid level is right. Your problem sounds like a VB issue or a rolled seal... ... .



I would call your favorite transmission man and do it fast.
 
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I had a 99 automatic that did the same thing, wouldn't shift between 1 - 2 unless I let off the peddle and then sometimes it still wouldn't shift. The dealer told me it was a seal, an overhaul later everything was fine. Just thought I would pass it on for what it's worth.



Jim
 
Thanks for all the replies. As it turned out, there is a bracket shaped like a U with the tops of the U turned out at 90 degrees. It holds a valve and spring. The bracket broke and the valve and spring came out. He bought another valve body for parts ($50) and replaced the valve and bracket and everything seems to work fine. Maybe he won't have any more problems.



Thanks guys.
 
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