Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Autometer 2663 fuel pressure gauge (with electric sending unit)

["Mad Max"]

howdy folks. I just picked up a 95 CTD 2500 4x4 - decent farm truck with about 225k on it. This is my first 2nd Gen truck (I'm a rabid 1st Gen fan but this truck was a pretty good deal - anyway...).

It's got some starting issues, and based on the symptoms and what I've read I've got a new TT OFV010 overflow valve coming to likely cure some if not all of that. I like to be able to monitor my fuel pressure, so I want to have a permanent dash-mounted fuel pressure gauge like I've enjoyed in my 1st Gens, but I'm reading and hearing that without a snubber the lift pump pressure spikes will kill a new gauge in short order, and my plan is to get a snubber (like the TT CBS010), which TT has told me (and their website explains in detail) will prevent the damaging pressure spikes, and allow the use of an aftermarket pressure gauge.

While I could install a temporary fuel pressure gauge and do some diagnosis that way, I very much prefer a permanent electric gauge in the cab.

I have a few nice Autometer gauges from my 93 that I'll be re-using, and I want to add an electric fuel pressure gauge like the Autometer #2663 (with the electric sending unit).

My question to the experienced 2nd Genners out there is...will the CBS010 snubber indeed prevent damage to an aftermarket gauge (electric sending unit or mechanical), or will I need another 'snubber' device of some sort in-line before the sending unit in order to ensure a gauge will last a good long while?

Thanks,
- Sam

 

[CKelley1]

the 95 is not a killer of the gauge like the 98.5 vp44 pump. just add a needle valve.

 

["Mad Max"]

use a needle valve in addition to the snubber, or use the snubber 'as' the needle valve??

 

[crabman]

I did both in my 98. A new gauge costs more than the snubber & needle valve combined, cheap insurance IMO.

 

["Mad Max"]

I did both in my 98. A new gauge costs more than the snubber & needle valve combined, cheap insurance IMO.

the only ones I've seen are the adjustable kind - it there a non-adjustable needle valve that has the sizing already in it to dampen the pulses? - I thought the snubber 'is' that device?

 

[crabman]

I used the snubber>http://www.genosgarage.com/14MM-CUMMINS-BANJO-SNUBBER-94-98/productinfo/BF-CBS010/#.VLPimsYcgqY, a section of hose with the necessary fitting for the adjustable needle valve and then the fitting for the electrical output to gauge.

 

[CKelley1]

you close the needle valve, start the engine and start opening the needle valve, stop at the point the gauge just starts to read. a $15 glycerin filled gauge from ww granger along with a $10 oil pressure gauge installation kit from autozone makes a better, more reliable unit.

 

[GAmes]

I've been running my EV2 pressure gauge for 400k or so without a snubber. To me, that is just more fittings that can spring a leak. I tapped the banjo bolt into the IP for a flexible grease gun hose, connected a needle valve that has two female connectors and screwed the sender into the other side. The needle valve is just barely cracked open and works perfect.

 

["Mad Max"]

thanks for all the replies and info - much appreciated

cheers,
- Sam

 

[cerberusiam]

The snubber is the needle valve, the isolator is the grease gun hose. You need both. The needle valve dampens the spikes with the piston lift pumps, electric or manual, the isolator dampens the vibe from the engine. The electric sending units don't like spikes or vibes.