2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Autometer fuel pressure gauge install?

[SRath]

I bought a slightly used Autometer Sport Comp II, 0 to 100psi fuel pressure gauge for $105 shipped to begin my gauge package. It wasn't planned to be first, since it is of least importance of the three, but seeing they normally sell for @ $180, I decided I had better jump on it.



It came complete with the sender and wiring, but no instructions. There are 3 non-sender wires: Red, Black, and White. I'm guessing Red goes to switched positive, Black to ground, and White to instrument lighting. Can anyone confirm if this is correct?



As for the sender; where and how should I mount it? The other 3 purple, grey, and black wires run directly to the quick-connector on the screw-in sender. I believe I have read where others have drilled and tapped a banjo fitting somewhere for the sender? Can I get some details on that? The sender has fine threads, but I don't know if they are NPT or what. I dislike the idea of drilling erroneous holes in my fuel system... , so I need to get it right the first time. Is there an aftermarket source for a special banjo bolt pre-drilled and tapped?



Also, I recently ran across a guy selling intake manifold bolts predrilled and fitted with boost tube nipples or fittings to make boost gauge installation very simple. They were advertised for the '98 and up 24 valve motors. Any reason it wouldn't also work on my 12 valve? Is there a more preferred location and method?



Hopefully, these Autometer Sport Comp II gauges will be worth the bucks. I liked the way the faces more or less matched the factory dash gauges and the LED through-the-face lighting sounds pretty cool ,too.



I plan to use a triple pillar pod and buy a pyro and boost gauge, too. I don't know if any particular pod is better than the others, the price does range widely, but was thinking I would just buy an Autometer pod for @ $65 shipped. The gauges sure ought to fit fine in their own pod.



I don't want to spend the huge bucks for the all-electric boost gauge, so I'm also wondering if the mechanical boost gauge's tube is any problem when using a pillar pod?

 

[Ragain]

Geno's offers a banjo fitting, also a rubber line adapter allowing the sending unit to mount in a remote location. I just used an adapter fitting on the test port/schrader valve (available at hydraulic hose and fitting suppliers) to mount my sending unit. NOTE: I advise the use of a "snubber" to mount inline before the sending unit. Seems that pulses in the fuel line will cause the gauge to fail prematurely. Auto-Meter can give you info on a supplier for the snubber.

If you plan to use the Auto-Meter boost gauge, discard the air line they supply with the gauge and use the 1/8" black airline available at most heavy truck parts dealers. The black line is more durable in the hostile engine compartment enviroment.