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Autometer Gauge Kit!!!???

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I JUST ORDERED THE AUTOMETER TRIPLE A PILLAR GAUGE KIT. WITH THE BOOST TRANS AND PYRO GAUGES. I AM WONDERING IF ANYONE ELSE HAS INSTALLED THIS KIT AND WHAT OTHER COMPONENTS ARE NEEDED. I KNOW GENOS SELLS A BOOST BOLT, AND I THINK THEY SELL A DIPSTICK SENSOR FOR THE TRANS AND THE PYRO IS JUST A MATTER OF DRILLING AND TAPPING, BUT IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT I WILL NEED. WIRES, TOOLS, ECT? WHEN I INSTALL THE KIT I WANT TO HAVE EVERYTHING AND NOT HAVE TO PIECE IT TOGETHER FOR 2 WEEKS. THANKS FOR ANY HELP... :cool:
 
QUIT YELLING!!! :)

I got the 2 gauge kit for my brother's truck. It was complete, except for nowhere to hook up the boost gauge. I simply drilled and tapped a place to put it. Go ahead and get two taps when you buy one just in case. Don't break it though.
 
I just put in the Autometer phantom gauges and I called diesel Manor for the boost bolt and i got the new trans line from them. After I put the new trans line in I found geno's has a fitting that goes around the line and also one that you can splice into the rubber part of the transmission line . I haven't put the pyro in yet still debating on dropping the turbo or just drilling with a magnetized drill bit.

Joe
 
The autometer gauge kit has very good installation instructions, you can drill the intake tube for your boost line, or you can remove one of the bolts on the intake and use a simple brass fitting like this #ad


I looked at several different options for the transmission sender, but i decided to drill the pan and i welded in a fitting, that way i get an accurate temperature of the fluid in the pan, and i also have a way to drain the fluid now.

And for installing the pyro probe, i removed the turbo when i did mine, but i think next time i would drill it with a magnetic bit and the engine running.
 
Tim: I don't have the Autometer but a lot of the work is common to all. Geno's recommends the pyro tap on top of the manifold, which picks up #1,2 3. The transition piece above the turbo is split. People who go this route believe #4,5,6 run a little hotter and therefore give you a better max pyro reading. This may be important if you've bombed the engine, but this location is full of potential problems. You would need an angle drill, the area is tight, and you could get debris into the turbo. I went with the manifold. Drill as close to the compartment overhead as you can and still keep drill vertical. Use 1/8 NPT tap, R bit I think (check). If you mess it up you can move up to 1/4 NPT. Drill a pilot hole, then move up to the R bit. Dip the bit into a tub of grease. Grease the bit liberally, stop and wipe off often. Same with tapping, dip and tap, stop and clean. GO SLOW. When finished stick a pencil magnet into the hole a few times until it comes back clean of shavings. If you have auto transmission the best path for the wires to the cab is the plastic cover where the clutch cable would go. You will need a 15mm deep socket to get this off so you can drill then holes.

For dash and A-pillar removal you will need 7mm, 8mm, 10mm nut drivers and/or 1/4" drive socket set.

Cross cut (Philips) screwdriver.

14 and 22 gage stranded wire.

Splices and butt connectors.

Electrical tape.

Wire shrink wrap.

There are many posts on this job in TDR: Search "Gages", "Dash Removal", "12V power source" (cig lighter) etc etc

Good luck, you will be happy you did it yourself.
 
where is the best place to tap into the trans? i've seen a million different opinions , but which one is right? thanks for the help again...
 
Tim, I dont have the transmission temp in yet, but I plan to order a Westach w/dipstick probe, plus a standard 1/8" npt probe for later. I like Westach, so I'll stick with them. Autometer may also offer a dipstick sensor. When I change the oil and drop the pan I'll install a B&M plug, already purchased from Geno's. Location seems to be a personal preference. I don't like the idea of putting a probe into a pressurized cooling line. It has a higher potential for failure (more joints to leak) and the reading will fluctuate a lot. The aftermarket pan mfrs include a 1/8" npt threaded hole for a drain plug/temp sensor in the pan. It makes sense to them, it makes sense to me.
 
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