Aux fuel tank help

[SLangegger]

I just recently installed a aux fuel tank. The way I set it up was to come out of the draw to an electric fuel pump under the bed, from there I welded in a fitting to the steel section of the filler neck and pumped the fuel into the tank form there. It works great, the only problem is that I think the weight of the fuel is pushing it past the electric fuel pump. The fuel just dribbles out untill the level in the aux. tank gets equal to the height of the fitting in the filler neck. What are you guys using to pump your fuel?



Thanks

Steve

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

IF you are referring to LEAKAGE past the transfer pump after shutting down the transfer pump, I think most of us are installing an electric fuel line switch unit that completely shuts down fuel flow when power is removed from the transfer pump - mine is wired in parallel with the transfer pump power wiring...



Like THIS:



#ad

 

[SLangegger]

Where is the best place to get one?

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Any decent auto parts store should have them - they are normally used for switching fuel flow between individual fuel tanks - unused line ports can simply be blocked off when the units are being used for anti-siphon applications as we are discussing here - they are pretty inexpensive...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Another tip when using a fuel transfer setup like this, I have installed a big flashing LED up on top of the steering column that steadily flashes while transfer is in progress - keeps me from forgetting to closely watch transfer progress and overflowing the main tank - good idea to also use a keyed power source for the pump to eliminate the possibility to walk off after shutting the truck down and leaving the transfer pump running...



Don't ask how *I* learned the above...

 

[LightmanE300]

I have mine set up with gravity and it works great. I have a ball valve installed on the drain of the tank, and from there the hose goes into a 2 micron racor filter, and out with a line to the filler neck. Very simple, no pumps, fills reasonably quickly. . The tank is vented from the top with a 2 micron foam filter on the end of it for clean air =]

 

[JimBob24]

I had the same problem. Fuel continued to siphon past the pump after I shut the switch off. Like Gary I used an electric switch/valve. I got one made by Pollack from J. C. Whitney (is it o. k. to recommend specific brands & suppliers?) I used the type of valve for selecting two tanks and blocked off the ports I did not need. This type of valve is motor driven and only draws current while opening or closing. Works great.



Jim

 

[MMeier]

I am currently running a ball valve on my set up also, thinking about going with a electric valve like the one's stated here. Anyone figure out how to make the stock gauge read correctly when fueling "on the go"? Or better yet what kind of sending unit to use on aux. tank to read on the stock gauge, apparently the 3rd gens are set up different from the 2nd gen trucks.

 

[JimBob24]

The electric valve I use also has wiring to switch fuel tank senders. It has wiring diagrams included. If you could find a sender for the aux tank with the same resistance as the stock one it should be fairly easy to wire.

 

[LightmanE300]

MMeier - ball valve to where? Mine drains via gravity from the aux tank directly into the main tank. No wiring, no extra hoses to route/connect (aside from one to the filler neck). The stock fuel gauge works perfectly - if I have the ball valve open the stock gauge stays on full until the aux tank is empty. Once the gauge starts reading less, I know I'm on my main tank. It's really simple, and the ONLY downside is that I can't flip a switch in the cab to start the flow. No big deal as I leave the ball valve open all the time and the flow is always there... I think people really overcomplicate the installation on these things.

 

[viper700]

I just completed a 65 gallon transfer tank installation in my 04. 5. I read a lot of threads in TDR on what other members did to come up with ideas that suited me. Because of where I live I could not use an open under the bed install for the pump,filter and switch. I will be traveling from Alaska down the ALCAN and back in the winter and they put a lot of sand and calcium cloride on the roads in Canada. Very messy. I built an aluminum box that is installed under the bed where the filler neck is located. in it I installed a racor filter assy with a Holly 12-801 pump with a electric tank selector switch. The pump and the switch are paralleled together with a switch on the dash this is mounted on a single gauge pod down by my knee with the electric fuel guage in it. The switch is lighted and can be easily seen when on. You can go to something like West Marine and get an electric sending unit and matching guage for your tank size and install as per directions. What also I believe is important was to silver solder a barb fitting on your main tank vent line and vent it to your transfer tank. This keeps The closed vent tank system intact. When you transfer fuel to the main the air you are displacing is fed back to the aux to tank to take up the space the transfer fuel is leaving. It only takes a few minutes to remove the filler neck assembly from the truck and then take the 3/8 barb fitting cut off the threaded portion. Take a file and slightly round out the face where the threads were and then silver solder the fitting in place. Next take a drill the same size as the inside of the barb and drill it out this makes sure your hole is centered on the fitting. I used a 3/8" line for the fuel and 1/2" line for the vent. Power for the gauge and switch is easy as when removing the panel under the dash by your feet look for the large bundle of wires to the left and pick the large blue wire about 12 ga. Tap in to it and solder a fuse holder for the atm fuse and run the wires over to the switch and guage. Don't use a scotch lok or similar connector as it will cut the strands on the blue wire just solder it in and don't have a problem down the road. This blue wire is not hot till the truck is running so you can't inadvertantly leave it on when you shut the truck off. Because I also have topper on the truck I cut a hole in it and mounted a SS bucket with a pickup filler neck modified to fit in the bucket to the tank with a short 2" fuel hose. It's a real clean install and you don't have to climb into the bed to fill the transfer tank. It was a lot of work but worth it now for traveling south and then dragging a 36' King of the Road 5er around.

 

[curatchko]

MMeier - ball valve to where? Mine drains via gravity from the aux tank directly into the main tank. No wiring, no extra hoses to route/connect (aside from one to the filler neck). The stock fuel gauge works perfectly - if I have the ball valve open the stock gauge stays on full until the aux tank is empty. Once the gauge starts reading less, I know I'm on my main tank. It's really simple, and the ONLY downside is that I can't flip a switch in the cab to start the flow. No big deal as I leave the ball valve open all the time and the flow is always there... I think people really overcomplicate the installation on these things.

I like the simplification of your setup, but I don't know if I understand completely. Does your filler neck then become completely filled up to the cap??? I assume it would because the aux. tank is above the cap height..... gravity would fill it up... . ??????????????

 

[viper700]

It seems to me he would always have a positive pressure and fuel flow in this situation. If the fuel cap was loosened it would be fuel all over the place. Also if there was a fuel line to leak it be all over place as nothing to shut it off but the ball valve at the tank but you would have to be there to catch it. What I did also was to pull from the top of the tank not the bottom, therefore if ever a leak I would only lose what was in the line not the whole tank. Also with with tank shut off switch, no fuel with engine and switch off. Those tank switches are easy to find, just plug off one port. Marine stores would have the pick up tubes also.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I too have serious questions as to a simple gravity or siphon fuel delivery from an in-bed tank - seems like WAY to many possibilities for leakage from several potential sources - and losing 30+ gallons of fuel at today's prices, plus the equally serious hazardous spill legalities facing an owner could quickly outdistance the "simplicity" or "cost savings" of such a system!

 

[MMeier]

Lightman, my ball valve is between aux. tank and electric pump, I open it when I transfer from aux. to main. You may want to look into redoing yours seeing as how gravity feed tanks are highly illegal last time I checked!!! I have a switch on my dash that glows red when the pump is running to let me know its on, I would however like to hook up the aux. tank to my stock gauge, when I tried this before it would not work because the sending units are not the same resistance. and lastly why doesn't the gauge read real time while filling up when the truck is running, mine will come up to about 1/4 and stay there till I shut the rig down and restart, regardless of how much I just transferred.

 

[JL penner]

MMeier - ball valve to where? Mine drains via gravity from the aux tank directly into the main tank. No wiring, no extra hoses to route/connect (aside from one to the filler neck). The stock fuel gauge works perfectly - if I have the ball valve open the stock gauge stays on full until the aux tank is empty. Once the gauge starts reading less, I know I'm on my main tank. It's really simple, and the ONLY downside is that I can't flip a switch in the cab to start the flow. No big deal as I leave the ball valve open all the time and the flow is always there... I think people really overcomplicate the installation on these things.

My Dad had the same setup on his 'F250 gasser. He just blocked off the spot where the filler neck came out of the tank.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"and lastly why doesn't the gauge read real time while filling up when the truck is running, mine will come up to about 1/4 and stay there till I shut the rig down and restart, regardless of how much I just transferred. "



On my '02, the dash guage lags by about 1/8 of actual - so I hafta stop transferring fuel at about 1/8 less that full, or risk overfilling - after a few minutes the guage "catches up" and reads actual. I'm sure DC dampens guage movement to avoid erratic readings, such as fuel sloshing or temporary fuel level changes due to traveling over uneven surfaces...

 

[davidsze]

I Have 93 Dodge Were Aero Tanks Takes Out The Stock Tank And Put A 60 Gal Tank With The Filler Hole And Gas Gauage Working, No Adjustments. Works Great. In Fact I Am Getting 2005 And Have One Put In My New Truck. Cost About $850. Has State Approval On The Tank. I Have Take On Some Backcountry Roads And No Problems. Aero Tanks -1-800-783-4826 - Web Www . aerotanks.com I Am Not A Dealer Just A Guy Who Found Out It.

 

[ceaman]

It is illegal per US DOT rules to Gravity feed fuel from your Aux tank into your Main tank. Because in and accident the Fuel flow would be unable to be stopped and cause a uncontrolled spill. Getting caught with tank set up that isnt DOT approved will cost you a fine and the confiscation of both the takn and the fuel it contains. A DOT approved set up must have all In and out lines coming in from the top of the tank.



My truck has a 53 Gallon Tank set up from Dually Depot (Elkhart, In) this tank has a valve that switches the tanks from main to aux. similar to a OEM dual tank set up. I am looking to Sell my 53 gallon takn and buy a 115 gallon set up.

 

[Buffalo]

MMeier, Dually Depot has a way of hooking up the aux. tank to the truck's stock fuel guage with a rocker switch mounted in the dashboard. It works well. I have their 115 gal. alum. diamondplate tank and like it. Hope this helps. Joe F. (Buffalo).