b&w turnover ball

[kelly w]

hey guys, this is my 1st post Ive been a member for a couple of years now and have always just read posts or done a search and got any answer i've ever needed to any question it is amazing at the knowledge you guys have on this site--thanks for all the information---great site-great guys i do have a question though is anybody having any trouble pulling gooseneck trailers with b&w turnover ball with shortbed truck and across the bed toolbox i just bought one and i'm going to install it myself and i thought i read the other day in another post where someone said that ball was 8" in front of axle i've installed hitches in previous trucks and i always put them around 2" in front of axle without any problems 8" concerns me if this is correct distance in front of axle in shortbed i could have read it wrong or misunderstood--anybody have any input thought i would ask before i installed it sorry for long post oh yeah trailers i mostly pull are Hart 3 horse slant with dressing room and big tex flatbed thanks kelly

 

[JohndeereG]

Originally posted by kelly w

Is anybody having any trouble pulling gooseneck trailers with b&w turnover ball with shortbed truck and across the bed toolbox i just bought one and i'm going to install it myself and i thought i read the other day in another post where someone said that ball was 8" in front of axle i've installed hitches in previous trucks and i always put them around 2" in front of axle without any problems 8" concerns me if this is correct distance in front of axle in shortbed i could have read it wrong or misunderstood

I have installed two turnover hitches one in a short bed and the other in a long bed. The center of the hole on a short bed will be 45 7/8" and the long bed will be 47 7/8" from the bumper end of the truck bed floor. (Don't measure from the tailgate). Visually I can't say how far back it mounts from the center of the axle but I don't think it is quite 8". I am judging by the pin release in the fender area and when I look down the actual hole for the ball.

 

[cpizz]

I had one installed yesterday. I wanted to mount it over the axle. However, if you don't mount it where the instructions tell you. It will interfere with the sleeve on the frame. The hitch is notched out around the sleeve. (at least on a long bed) B & W said the ball is mounted that far forward for a comfortable ride. I say if you are looking for comfort buy a Lincoln Town Car. These trucks are made to work! If you can't take the harsh ride, buy a half ton!
The hitch is excellent quality but the bolts they sent seem a little too short in some places.

 

[wyosteve]

Kelly, B&W is now making a ball extension which will move the ball back about 6 inches from the square hole. Kinda hard to describe, but it will help much on the shortbeds.

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

It makes no sence to mount it directly over the axle. You want to transfer some of that pin weight to the front tires for a better ride and safer control, that is the whole point of goosenecks and 5vers. I know on my long bed the ball is about 3-4" ahead of the axle.

 

[cpizz]

If you roll over a scale, you will see how much weight is already on the front axle. There is not much room to play with. Maybe on a quad cab you need this. But on a regular cab no more weight is needed. Also, if you have a front end replacement you are really pushing it.

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by wyosteve

Kelly, B&W is now making a ball extension which will move the ball back about 6 inches from the square hole. Kinda hard to describe, but it will help much on the shortbeds.

It is rated for only around 20k gtw and 5k tongue.



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[Mopar_Mudder]

Originally posted by cpizz

If you roll over a scale, you will see how much weight is already on the front axle. There is not much room to play with. Maybe on a quad cab you need this. But on a regular cab no more weight is needed. Also, if you have a front end replacement you are really pushing it.

Well I have crossed the scales at 31,000# gross and am still under on the front axle, how about you.

 

[TCDiesel]

B&W

I have posted many times on this subject, My front axle weight is 4860 LBS with one driver and auxiliary and truck tank tank full ,Gross weight is 8840. I have been over 30. 000 gross with my TRI-axle end dump trailer and have seen front axle weight of 5920 with a 44. 5 TDC which is 2" in front of TDC on axle ,When auxiliary tank is empty front axle weight is 4470 LBS If you pull weight exceeding 1600 on draw bar with 48. 5 TDC you will be putting more weight on front axle than DC[ recommends] you can exceed this and be legally safe. If I had a 48. 5 TDC with 30. 000 Gross I would see front axle weight of close to 7000. Not to mention any off road use with 48. 5 TDC.

A&R custom builds all my hitches,The cross members are 1" thick steel and sits on top of brackets cuss-it welded, that are wire fish bolted to frame. You can spec out your hitch,and is installed for around $350. 00.

 

[cpizz]

If you pull a horse trailer with living quarters in it, tongue weight is heavy. These trailers are extremely nose heavy! That is more weight on the front end than I like with a front end replacement and nose heavy trailer. You have other things to consider than comfort. Like bearings and suspension components.

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Re: B&W

Originally posted by TWest

I have posted many times on this subject, My front axle weight is 4860 LBS with one driver and auxiliary and truck tank tank full ,Gross weight is 8840. I have been over 30. 000 gross with my TRI-axle end dump trailer and have seen front axle weight of 5920 with a 44. 5 TDC which is 2" in front of TDC on axle ,When auxiliary tank is empty front axle weight is 4470 LBS If you pull weight exceeding 1600 on draw bar with 48. 5 TDC you will be putting more weight on front axle than DC[ recommends] you can exceed this and be legally safe. If I had a 48. 5 TDC with 30. 000 Gross I would see front axle weight of close to 7000. Not to mention any off road use with 48. 5 TDC.

A&R custom builds all my hitches,The cross members are 1" thick steel and sits on top of brackets cuss-it welded, that are wire fish bolted to frame. You can spec out your hitch,and is installed for around $350. 00.

Well this isn't making much sence. If you got 6000# on the front axle then you have to have atleast 10,000# on your rear axle. So your rear axle is way over weight and at 16,000 you are over your GVW of 12,000 also.



What I am saying is that if you get enough weight on your truck to get the front axle over the weight rating then your rear axle is over and your gross is over. So how can you be so concerned about one and not care about the other two?



I have the B&W and when I load my trial the truck scales at 11,800# full of fuel and drive. At that weight I am just under the 12,000# GVW and both axles are under their weight rating.

 

[TCDiesel]

B&W

MM, you are right it does not take much to get over DC spec"s. That is why weight proportioning is so important. I posted scale tickets in the hauling/RV forum to this effect 5920 on steer axle, 6220 on driver, 17560 in tri-axle, three men in the cab,tanks full 200 LBS accessories and equipment, gross 29700. This is over DC recommendation's, it is legal in the State of Minnesota according to 600 PSI ground pressure and bridge weight laws with stock tires.

Put another man in the cab and at 48. 5 TDC you will add an easy 500 LBS to the to the steer axle this may get you over gross on the truck depending on license and tires. This is with commercial plates,and does not apply to recreational vehicles.