Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) B1 exhaust housing swap.....EGT?

[BWillard]

I'm currently running a B1b and I'm looking for a little more drop in EGT's while towing. Would an exhaust housing swap from the B1b to standard B1 housing be worth the trouble? How much drop should I expect..... 100* to 200* difference or not that much? Also there is NO shroud around my BHAF which could also be a culpret but I might look into a Scotty II or Afe kit to clear up that problem. What'd ya think... ... .....

 

[Big P]

I'm pretty sure that the B1B and the full B1 have the same exhaust housing. The difference is that the B1B has a smaller turbine wheel. So for you to go to a full B1 need to have the larger wheel installed and have the shaft re-balanced.

 

[BWillard]

I thought a B1b could be swapped out in the field unlike the standard B1 which would require the mods... I do believe the difference is the exhaust wheel though! Maybe I got it backwards

 

[rubberneck]

Going to a larger housing on the B1 will more than likely result in higher EGT's while towing not lower. I have the standard housing/wheel B1 and the towing performance is not up to par. I have been meaning to call and get a smaller housing ordered, but just havent done it. Empty it performs great, but i can not keep it spooled when towing very heavy unless i keep the rpms up pretty high.



PS, when i tow, i run DD3's, so our set up is identical, other than the slightly different version of the B1

 

[BWillard]

Rubberneck, what kinda EGT's are you seeing and what kinda weight are you hauling? I have a 7,500lb fifth and sometimes pull a 10k gooseneck and my EGT's are around 1100* or so... ... (on the level) which isn't so bad, I just don't like to hold that kinda temp. long ,so I have to back out of it How long is it safe to hold that kinda temp anyway?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I wouldn't hold it at 1100* pre-turbo for longer than 750,000 miles or so.



(1100 is no problem)



Forrest

 

[Chipstien]

1250 ALL DAY LONG.

 

[rweis]

I've got a B1B and tow 13k. It runs much better with a load as the rpms are up and the boost is about 10psi on the flats which keeps the turbine spooled up.



Getting it to up to speed is a different story. When you first get into the go pedal it is real sluggish until it gets spooled up. Once it gets spooled up it runs well.



EGT's only run over 1250 if you get into it heavy before you develop 10# boost. Wife has to watch pre EGT and back out of it until it gets spooled up. She accelerates by setting the EGT gauge at 1250* and hold it there till she gets the speed / boost up.



I don't accelerate at as high a rate as she does and therefore have less EGT issues.



I run dd2's and basically an EZ (Comp w/VP NOT pierced)



Bob Weis

 

[78repowerwagon]

I know this sounds backwardss, but get the kwickspool smaller housing. I went from 4psi on flat ground towing at 1100 degrees to 10 psi and 900 degrees. I had a B1 and switched to a KSB1B. Also noticed partial load with the B1 would result in high egts, and the KSB1B would stay cool. Smaller housing stays spooled and therefore runs cooler.

 

[BWillard]

Yeah, I can see that! I was thinking bigger housing, more HOT exhaust expeled The only problem I have is losing the top side when I'm not towing.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

wastegate it

 

[snowracer69]

Originally posted by 78repowerwagon

I know this sounds backwardss, but get the kwickspool smaller housing. I went from 4psi on flat ground towing at 1100 degrees to 10 psi and 900 degrees. I had a B1 and switched to a KSB1B. Also noticed partial load with the B1 would result in high egts, and the KSB1B would stay cool. Smaller housing stays spooled and therefore runs cooler.

I'm sorry, but PLEASE DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS POST!!!! The smaller housing WILL NOT make your temps run cooler. Trust me on this, I am on my second B1 housing now, and will have my third in another month or so.



I started w/ a KSB-1-2 (small wheel)... the absolute fastest spooling turbo Ken makes. Well, it spooled allright, but was poor at controlling my EGT's at top end (how many of you run 450 RWHP at 5000'?). So, I went to Ken and got a standard housing for my -2 wheel... top end is MUCH improved and hardly any spool time was lost. The pull is much harder past 2500 RPM's, where it used to fall off due to the restriction caused by the tiny housing. But, the temps do still get EXTREMELY hot, they just don't take as long to get there. Extremely = well over 1700*F.



I don't have the pics with me right now, but will post them later tonight, of the demise of my current exhaust housing (I'm still running it, cause Ken doesn't have any single entry housings right now). I can only see 7 cracks in it, but I think it's one giant continous crack that started at the most rearward wastegate hole... . will have to see when I get the new one, as I will tear into it at school and do some investigation on it.



Go with the biggest housing you can, then have it ported and polished to match your exhaust manifold, along with the compressor housing and elbow and the intake horn. I was skeptical when I sent those parts off for this, but the end result was amazing. I have 25 pics of all this stuff, but haven't had time to size and host them so I could post the info... maybe tonight I'll find some.



Josh



P. S. Ken @ Turbo Auto Diesel in Phoenix is a good guy to work with. He's helped Denis and I out a bunch with stuff that has happened with our turbos.

 

[BWillard]

snowracer69, I've dealt with Ken too! When I first got my B1 from Kurt the wastegate flap was locked down partially open causing extreme EGT's. Then I found pin holes in the compressor housing (bad casting) and he sent me a new one. Seems like a good guy to deal with. I would like to try one of the big housings to compare the difference. I really don't think I need to go KSB1 with the 6 speed and all the fuel. I would think it would be much worse.



I'd like to see the pics... ... ... .

 

[snowracer69]

Originally posted by BWillard

When I first got my B1 from Kurt the wastegate flap was locked down



I'd like to see the pics... ... ... .

I try not to mention that name... . he might try to sell me something for too much, that isn't right for me, again.



Pics on the way

 

[snowracer69]

see pics here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107774

 

[rubberneck]

snowracer69, you can tell him to not listen to this post, however, i would like to ask you a question. How much weight do you tow? I gross out between 22 and 23K. I would agree with you 100% that the larger housing is the way to go when running empty. However, with the big housing, I can not keep the boost up while towing unless i downshift and keep the rpm up. It gets really annoying to listen to, not to mention there is no reason to have to do it. My truck is between 450-500 hp depending on what injectors are in it and i have towed as high as 8000 feet. Bigger is not necessarily better when towing. I have been told by many on this board i am wrong, however I have witnessed on more than one truck that i am not. Bottom line i guess, is i do not think that there is any single out there that can give you spool up and bottom end towing performance of stock and the top end of one of the larger singles. That is why i will be going to twins quite soon.



Bwillard, to answer your question, going down the road on the flats at sea level, my egt runs between 1000-1100. I do not worry about holding it there, but it gets to 1250 in a super hurry on any kind of rise. I usually end up down shifting for anything larger than a moderate overpass to get boost up and egt's down. Do what you would like, but consider the recomendations you get. I do tow heavy, and the rules are a little different when towing vs. hotrodding, and I do both.

 

[BWillard]

rubberneck, I agree with you totally on hotrodding and towing, these trucks need to be setup different per application. I'm kinda in a bad situation because 95% of the time I don't tow, this is my daily driver back-n-forth to work. However, when I go camping with the 5er or drag the goose around I want it to run cooler than a full out drag truck I can see both snowracer69 and your points. I would like the bigger housing for ripping around messin' with the Fords & Chevys and being able to stay in it longer, but on the other hand I've heard about losing the "spool" towing with one. I just need to build this truck how I really want it and buy another for daily driving and towing... ... ... . I hope my wife didn't hear that!

 

[rubberneck]

Sounds like you and I are in the exact same boat. Member bpine seemed to be extremely happy with his PDR towing twins, havent heard any different on the boards yet. I think I am going there. I am tired of changing parts when i want to tow heavy and then putting it all back on so i can goof around.

 

[rweis]

Could someone measure the LENGTH of the exhaust end of their B1.



I got the EX4 so I could do a regular HX40 downpipe, but I had to modify the heck out of the downpipe. I understand the exhaust end of the B1's has changed from 4. 25" to a shorter 2. 50". Is this true?



Thanks,



Bob Weis

 

[Sticks]

Try some twins. Maybe some Water Injeciton.