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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission back up lights (suggestions) please

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP Party Sat-Dec 9-South Fla.

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Confused about DD3s

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Originally posted by 1tuffram

Have you noticed any deforming of the tail light assembly or cover from the added heat from these bulbs?
No I haven't but am not in the habit of long periods of reverse. Had them in for at least five years though. Before a friend ordered the 50w bulbs he tried to get some from Napa, they said they didn't carry them because they could melt the lenses. Did see them once at Pep Boys though.
 
Shovelhead do you get vivid instructions with the kit, when it comes to electric wireing I;am lost thanks in advance. John
 
The instructions are pretty simple.

Only 3 wires:

Positive 12V- wired to 12V + in trailer wiring harness. (my choice)

Negative ground- connected to bolt on frame.

Relay trigger- scotch-locked to back-up light wire in left fender.
 
Like Thomas

I have the Hella 90601 work lights. I have the on a slight angle so that they will shine to the side some. I also have a switch under the tailgate that will turn them on if I am working around the back of the truck. Like setting up a camp at night.
 
I have the white knights too... love em. They are amazing and I get compliments all the time on how bright they are.



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JR2, I like the carabeeners (sp) hanging down under the receiver, great idea!. That makes it easy to hook up the safety chains. I have a hard time hooking them up to the receiver. I like that, I think I'll use it if you don't mind.

Ron
 
I just received some Hella Micro DE fog lights that I will be mounting into the rear bumper of my wife's new 03 Sport. they require only a 2 1/4" hole. I got them for approx 30% off at www.susquehanna.com

The lights are typical Hella quality!!

Bob
 
Beware of carabiners for your saftey chain, I doubt if they will hold even 500 pounds. I had one break in half when my gooseneck trailer came off at 25 mph after a tire shop monkey forgot to put the safety pin back in.
 
I have the White Knights and I like the brightness but one thing you have to watch out for is that if you don't run with a receiver in the hitch, they are the thing that sticks out the furthest in the rear - beyond the bumber and low. I have bent them a couple of times, fortunately they are a little resilient. Even the garage door found them one time when I didn't pull in quite far enough... .....



I couldn't bear the idea of splicing into my factory harness, so I made up a pigtail that plugs into the 7 pin trailer connector, then bought another 7 pin connector and mounted it a little off to the side and ran that into the new pigtail. No problems so far.
 
I bought a couple a 35W tractor light for $8 a piece, drilled holes in the sides of the receiver and mounted them on the outsides of the hitch, and are not near the hitching area of the hitch. Used a relay to turn them on two ways; 1) is a SPST switch under the dash. 2) is a feed off the reverse light circuit using a diode to prevent the switch from turning on the existing back up lights. A little wiring and relay from the salvage yard and for $20 I have back up / rear lighting that I can actually see with.



The tractor lights are cheap enough that if I rip one off out in the field or where ever I just go buy another cheapo light and replace it.



It worked for me,

Wayne
 
illflem, thanks for the suggestion, I thought they were stronger than that. I'll have to find something else.

Ron
 
Rono,

When you add the 'beiners be sure to use the threaded lock kind. The classic climber style of just a swinging gate are not strong enough for safety chains.



Opps, I didn't see the post from Illfem, he already addressed the strenght problem. The steel, threaded lock in . 375 dia. are strong enough.
 
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