2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ball joint hell

[ichoplin]

I'm in the middle of replacing front shocks and ball joints on my 02 3500 4wd.

I've done ball joints on other Dodge CTD's, but this one is kicking my rear. After tearing up one wheel bearing, I'm already in it $600 and I haven't gotten the ball joints out yet.

Here's what has happened so far, neither lower ball joint will budge with the rented ball joint press.

Both upper ball joints broke when I put the press on them. I started soaking everything last night with PB Blaster and so far it's letting me down.

All I have for heat is a MAPP gas torch, will that get me hot enough to do any good?

What are some other tricks I can try?

I've been at it for 8 hours today already and I'm burned out right now. Everything is soaking in PB now. Maybe a couple hour break will do me some good.

Thanks,

Ian

 

[jhenderson]

Have you tried shocking the housing around the joint with a 3 pound hammer. Install the press, put pressure on the joint, then wail away. Sometimes this will break the joint loose from it's press fit. I wouldn't heat the housing unless I really had to.

 

[wlowe]

The correct ball joint kit for your truck is the OTC 8031. Many have tried the smaller presses with limited success. Quad4X4 also sells a larger press that will work for your truck, both are spendy. Good luck.

 

[VolsFan]

On my brother in laws ford, I whacked them off with a sawzall then took the knuckles in to a machine shop to get pressed back in, whole thing including running to the shop took about 3 hrs

 

[ichoplin]

DONE! It only took me about 13 hours total, my truck is back on the road. I'm not sure if I came out ahead by doing this project myself or not, but at least it's done and I can say I did it myself.
I may have worn out a 4lb hammer getting the lower joints out. I took a couple hour break yesterday and went back to it. The uppers came right out. I ended up grinding an "X" in the tops of the lower ball joints and used a chisel and hammer to get them to spin. Once they spun, out they came. I don't remember the bj's on my 06 being this stubborn.
Everything went back as it should with lots of anti-seize.
Do you all recommend an alignment? I've only driven it around the block and it seems to drive like before, just "tighter. "
Thanks for the responses. Sometimes I get tunnel vision and need an outside view off things to get back on track.

Ian

 

[1tuffram]

I need to do the ball joints on my 95. What ball joints are you guys replacing the OEM with? Looking for OEM quality or better at an affordable price. I'm considering the greaseable ball joint kit from quad4x4, but was looking for opinions on the various options available.

 

[LandShark]

Here's what I ordered for the passenger side a few years back, from Rockauto:


<TBODY>




















</TBODY>

1995 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5. 9L 359cid L6 DIESEL MFI Turbo (C)
SPICER	5001048B	Ball Joint	$ 8. 63	$ 0. 00	1	$ 8. 63
SPICER	5051181B	Ball Joint	$ 12. 86	$ 0. 00	1	$ 12. 86

 

[1tuffram]

I found a Spicer upper and lower BJ kit: # 707469X that are susposedly the same ball joints that came in the truck. Internet prices are around $80-90 per side. My local Dodge Dealer wants $205 per side for kit 4746696AB and online Dodge sources want around $140 per kit. Are the Rockauto ball joints the same quality as these kits or what came stock on these trucks? The steep price difference between the oem quality spicer bj's and the Rock Auto ball joints has me wondering.

Anyone know if the ball joint press quad4x4 sells is one of the OTC C-frame presses (#7248 or 6736 large C-Frame) or the Miller C-4212F press called for in the service manual? They all look the same and I think the Miller and OTC large C-Frame 6736 are the same tool. I contacted OTC and all they said was SPX owns OTC and Miller and that the Miller C-4212F is larger than the OTC 7248 but had no comment on the larger C-frame OTC 6736 and the Miller C-Frame.

 

[LandShark]

The ball joints I bought from ROckauto were Spicer, with grease zircs. As far as quality, I believe they were US made, and after 5 years and 45,000 miles (with mostly the camper aboard) they are still tight.

I did purchase a heavy duty ball joint press (Harbor Frieght #38335) for the job and ended up slightly bending the giant C clamp. I was able to complete the job after much pounding and heat and the press is still useable. Press came with some nice spacers that really helped.

 

[snuff]

i did mine awhile ago w/ carli's. with a big press, a bit of heat, and a big hammer and whammo 3hrs later done.

yea if you heat up too much you will bend the yokes. and yea they are pricey, but if you got a heavy truck you might as well replace it with heavy duty part. imo only.....

 

[EForbes]

Thinking about doing mine real soon, do you have to pull the axles or can they stay in place?

 

[1tuffram]

Thinking about doing mine real soon, do you have to pull the axles or can they stay in place?

By the looks of it the axle shafts may be in the way, but don't know for sure. I was planning on pulling my shafts when I do the ball joints and cross my fingers the seals don't leak.

 

[JMcCoy]

This was not a project I look forward to doing again. I used a Harbor Freight press and an O/A torch. The map gas torch wouldn't do it. The best thing you could have done is put the anti-seize on them. Hopefully it will pay off form me the next time I do it. I went with Moog Problem Solver ball joints. I was not aware Spicer made greasable ball joints. I would have probably gone with them. Carli does not make ball joint for the second generation trucks. Dyna-Trac makes them but I have a hard time spending $700. 00 on ball joints. A better press would probably have made the project go faster. I hope your joints last s long time. My stock (non greasable) Spicer joints were still good at around 190,000 miles. Good luck.

 

[EdK]

A WORD OF CAUTION: Check the flexible brake hoses VERY carefully while you have the front end apart doing the ball joints.
I had my '99 at Goodyear for a front end alignment. The driver side ball joints were shot, so, considering the 95* days, I had them replace the upper and lower while I was there. I have a feeling the tech HUNG the caliper by the flex hose instead of hanging it from a piece of wire. I was on my way home and lost my brakes, running into a car stopped to make a left turn. My ONLY accident in 48 years behind the wheel. The police didn't ticket me because of the large puddle of brake fluid dripping from the driver side flex hose!!! He said, "I assume you are towing this back to Goodyear?" The flex line had split at the banjo fitting.
I left the truck there until my insurance adjuster looked it over on the rack and took a bunch of pictures of the brake fluid soaked front wheel. I never heard if the insurance company went after Goodyear. I spent the next Saturday changing out ALL the flex brake lines and replaced the solid line from the front to the proportioning valve because I found it to be VERY rusty.