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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Ball Joint on 4x4

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) A tale of Woe

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I have a bad lower ball joint on my 97 3500 4x4. I've never had one of these apart and was wondering, if you have too knock the ball joints out before you can get the rotor off. I also need to check the bearing in the rotor while i'm in there because it seems to have a minor amount of play in it.



This is my first Dodge vehicle and want too be sure I do it right.



Thanks to anyone that can point me in the right direction.
 
I haven't had one apart myself, but would like to suggest getting the factory manual. It will help you in all sorts of projects. I found it to be useful to make decisions on weather or not to do a job myself, or pay to have the work done. Sorry I can't help any more than this.
 
Are you sure the bearing is loose? (and not just the ball joint) TO get the joint out you have to get your hub/bearing/rotor assembly off and pull the axle shaft. (assuming the 3500 is the same as 2500)
 
Originally posted by 53 Willys

You need to take the rotor,hub,bearing assy off so you can get the axle shaft out of the way, then the ball joints.



What he said. The bearings are not serviceable, you have to replace them as a unit (called unit bearings). Make sure you unbolt them from the steering knuckle before trying to get them off. When I first did my 95, I didn't and actually pulled the unit bearing apart with a puller.



Bryan
 
If the Dodge unit bearing is the same as the Jeeps I may have a suggestion. Is this a good time to replace the U-joint?



If so:

-Remove tire

-With brakes still in place have assistant hold the brakes, using really good breaker bar, unbolt the nut holding the axle to the unit bearing.

-Now remove brakes

-Remove bolts to unit bearing (Jeep has three)

-Reinstall tire

-Pull really hard

-Unit Bearing will now come out.



If may/may not be necessary to remove axle shaft from unit bearing. Using the vehicles brakes makes this real easy. On reinstallation of unit bearing coat the metal to metal surface with antiseize. The first time removing the unit bearing will be a bear. My second time was beside the freeway effecting repairs to my Jeep. I was thankful a Jeep website pointed out to use the antiseize. This is of course if the Dodge is anything like the Jeeps (Vacuum Disconnect).
 
Using the wheel sounds like a good idea. Hadn't thought of that one. The axle seems to free up from the inside of the bearing easily. It's the bearing to knuckle contact that seems to be rusted on every time. A good kick on the tire might help that.



I always break the axle nut loose before jacking.



There are 4 (12 point) bolts holding the bearing assy. to the knuckle.



New U joint might be a good idea unless you like this kind of work:D
 
Thanks for the info. I did see the four bolts on the back side of the rotor but I was guessing that they were just to hold the dust shield on:confused:



I am planning on getting the manual, but I have only had the truck for a couple weeks and haven't done it yet:D
 
There is some sort of sheetmetal spacer in there, just be sure to keep it oriented correctly. At least there was on the SRW, not sure about the DRW.



Bryan
 
Welcome

erempel: Welcome to Dodge Diesel land and to the TDR. You will find this sight VERY helpful saving you money and down time.



Enjoy,

Mark
 
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