2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball Joint Replacement

[WBodine]

I experienced the death wobble last night. I am going to replace the front end under my truck. I need to know any special tips or tricks on how to do upper and lower ball joints on 01 4X4. Thank You.

 

[CumminsPower98]

The main thing you will need is a ball joint press with the proper adapters. If you don't have one you may be able to rent one from the place you get your parts or you can buy one of course. If your wheel bearings haven't been off before that will be a tough job. A special puller can be used here but can also pull the bearings apart. There is a way to do it without the puller and keeping the bearings in tact, which involves jacking the hubs off using the power steering. Back all four hub bolts out a little ways. Now use a socket and extension wedged between something strong on the axle and the bolt and turn the wheels into that to try to force the hub out. Go back and forth from side to side on the bearing until it pops out. Be careful, use your head and you should be able to get it this way.

 

[PVanderlugt]

1. Make sure you move all woman and children out of listening distance, there will be some cursing involved

2. Make sure you have a BF hammer handy, 10 pound sledge preferred.

3. Have some kind of cleaning tool *dremmel tool, etc handy to clean all the rusted parts up after you do get them apart.

4. Lots of anti-seize

have fun

Pete

 

[ThrottleJockey]

Love me some BF Hammer.

 

[CReinhardt]

You may need the BF hammer just to remove the rotors. I am doing wheel bearings and ball joints right now also and had to use plenty of penetrating oil and a little persuasion just to remove the rotors.

 

[LBARTLETT]

what kind of ball joints are you using?

 

[TBartlett1]

When removing the unit-bearing assembly. Do not remove the large axle nut until the bearing assembly is loose and ready to remove other wise you may damage the unit-bearing. The axle nut holds the two piece inner bearing assembly together.

Even if you are replacing the bearing assy leaving the nut on keeps the bearing solid allowing you to get a solid hit if the rotor is frozen on the hub or the bearing hub is stuck in the knuckle.

As Cumminspower98 said a ball-joint press is required.

OTC makes a large frame ball-joint press #8031 for under $300. 00 that handles the ball-joints and larger u-joints on the AAM axles. This kit would definitely pay for itself if used only once.

I have the tool set which has 19 adaptors, it is very well made.

Tim

 

[CReinhardt]

I haven't bought the ball joints yet but am planning to go with Moogs. Right now I am too busy cursing this frozen hub assembly to buy the ball joints.

 

[WBodine]

I have had to replace my hub assembly on both sides and put new brakes and rotors on about 10 months ago. I had no problem to speak of. I have now replaced all of my tie rods with Moog parts even the track bar ( temp ). When I was replacing all of this I checked the ball joints best I could, they seem to be fine for now. Well my other part just came in today from BD Diesel a track bar. So I will put it on today and new sway bar bushings. Think I will also order the Maxxlinks. As for now no more DEATH WOBBLE and I haven't had an alinement yet I was waiting on the track bar.
Wayne

 

[WBodine]

Well I ended up replacing the upper and lower ball joints. I also got my track bar form BD installed and ordered and installed Maxxlinks and Energy Suspension sway bar bushings. The front end is so tight now that I had to relearn how to drive it again. Shouldn't have let the front end go so long before I gave some it some love. I am going to get my tires ordered this week and put on when I get back in town. Then a alignment should be good for a while I hope... ..... ( $2,375 all parts,tires,alignment and my labor )

Wayne