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Ball joints, hubs and such

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TGVET

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05 3500 QC SRW 4x4 171K highway miles every once in a while lighter towing and lighter loads.

Well, I just had mine done yesterday 1/15. In Aug. 2007, I had my uppers done as well as U-joints all w/ greasable zurcs. (I'm a maintenance freak. ) Not long after I had my uppers done, I was towing my job trailer and a load in the box, nothing too taxing for the 3500 mind you and going about 30mph when some dumb-A caused me to hit the binders hard. From that point on, I seemed to notice a mild vibration up through the steering wheel. I had things checked out, wheels rebalanced with no improvement. December 30th 09, another individual bolted out into traffic in front of me and I jammed the breaks hard to avoid the collision. He hit my right front wheel slashing the side wall with nothing much else damaged, but I had definitely noticed a more pronounced steering issue going on (after getting all new tires).

Took it in to my shop and they determined both upper and lower ball joints were now bad. Mechanically inclined as I am, I was right in there along with them to inspect. Even though the uppers they previously installed were lifetime warranted, due to the collision and breaking hard, it was determined undue stress was applied to the joints and the supplier of the uppers would not warranty the replacement. Fortunately, my insurance covered the work as the uninsured motorist caused the accident.

150. 00+ per joint (SKS parts) plus labor, totaled over 980. 00 covered by insurance. (I'm open to input on SKS or other Mnf. ) My front pinion seal had been leaking for a long time too, first noticed around 60K+ plus if memory serves me, so I had them replace it while on the lift for 150. 00 (my expense). Perhaps it could have been covered under drive train, but I DON'T trust the dealerships.

ALSO, while in the shop and tore apart, I decided to look at the right hub on the floor. Upon inspecting it to see if it was in need of bearings, unbeknown to me, they are NON-SERVICEABLE. #$%%^. . Word to the wise here... Spend more time on TDR . . Anyhow, it was growling some as I spun it around so, I picked up the driver side to compare and was still smooth like new. Time was running short as the work progressed and I was forced to make a decision about what to do with "that hub" and fast.

My mechanic, Roy Engle made the phone calls as well as searching on line. Hubs were ranging from the 300. 00's to the 500. 00's depending on the source. OEM price highest naturally. His best price to me for non-OEM was just over cost at 370. 00 EACH... . %^#%^#^..... Being that I'm not one to just replace one thing of what ought to be equal wear time, 700. 00+ was no way in my budget. SO, we called the local SCHUKS / O'reilly and found them (unfortunately from CHINA which, I hate) for 129. 00 ea. w/a one year warranty. (I'm open to anyone's personal experience with China ones. )

This is leading to wanting to know what others have been experiencing with the above as well as, to help any and to address johnnyboy_10138 posting. Additionally, anyone switching out front hubs to Dynatrac free spin hubs, with Warn hubs or the Dyntrac ones (considerably more $$) and what kind of MPG increase they are getting. Obviously, there will be far less wear on the ring & pinion, front drive-line joints and seals too and possibly any vibration I would think.
Being that I want to switch over to Dynatrac and some point in the near future, I did not want to spend a pile of much needed reserves for hubs now.

I hope this helps others out there on the ball joint and some other issues.
 
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Last year I replaced 4 ball joints, most of the steering components and u-joints. My hub bearings were also bad so I installed the Dyna trac kit. 85K miles. I went with the smaller size axles, about $2400. 00 or so. Easy to install, and no problems so far. 20K miles. One word of caution... ... if your steering is vague prior, wanders, loose, etc it is multiplied with the front end freewheeling! I am considering going to the new steering conversion and shock kit from Carli. My ball joints are already shot, MOOG??? so Carli BJ are coming also. No MPG increase noticed??? Hope that helps. .
 
OK, we've done the bearings on one of our trucks... We replaced one and serviced the other side... they press apart with a simple arbor press and can be cleaned and re-greased... or if yours are still in good shape you can pull the rotor, pull the ABS sensor and add a very HIGH END GREASE... we used only full synthetic grease we use in clutch bearings... . And we've greased the bearings on our other trucks...

We had read about greasing on this web sight so we greased one side on one of our trucks, spun the bearing and than pressed it apart to see if the new grease added got into both front and rear bearing... we were surprised that in fact it did... .

I have a sample of an off shore product here for inspection... (515061) its built with as much care and custody as I assume the National is... I can't speak for the Shucks product but I'd use the sample that I have...

BTW - we had to use a rotary hammer set to the chisel position to remove the assembly on one of our trucks... we found this to be the fastest and easiest method, then before installation, we had to go back and remove burrs on the mating surfaces... and of course a lot of anti-seize so if they have to be removed again it will be simpler...

The 04 we own now has almost 300 K and at least 150 or 175 K since we replaced the one side and greased the other side... the other trucks have less mileage. .
 
I'll try and make this sound educated, last May were on vacatoin, my wife hears a noise in the right front. Get back from the trip noise goes away and is forgotten about untill August, when I find the front drive sahft U joints are gone, replace all three and the CV joint. Fast foward to November the noise comes back were going to pick our friend up from the airport, it's 8:00 at night the noise increases to the wost I have ever heard from a vehicle that is still on the black top. Ends up the bad U joints also took out the pinion bearing. Total repair $4,500, total rebuild of the front end, 2 weeks later the rear pinion seal is leaking, ends up in the rear diff needing to be rebuilt, $1,400. Now it looks like the VP is going out as well as the TPS. Going with a blue chip injection pump and an Air Dog fuel pump. Did I mention we cannot afford the repairs but are to deep to quit. Funny thing is we still love our truck, Thanks for all the help, this site and the people are a god send, Skip
 
I used a set of the EMS free-spin hubs on my '07 and they are worth the money in the long run. I saw my best mileage increase on the highway when I stay at 65mph. (2K rpm) I can run 19. 5 at 70mph plus. Steering is alot lighter feeling. The biggest benifit for me is having low range 2wd for backing, especially now with the Southbend clutch
 
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