-
TDR Magazine subscribers receive more than the magazine! You also gain additional forum privileges!
Details here: TDR Privileges
Subscribe to TDR Magazine here: https://www.tdr-online.com/
Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Banks stuff
- Thread starter jeep39
- Start Date
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.
Thanks, TDR Staff
- Status
NO
What do you want out of your truck? I have one thing from banks on my truck and it wasn’t worth the money. Do look at other diesel pages and bombs on here. It comes down to what do you want out of your truck. Like they say measure twice cut once... but us its look allot spend less the first time around.
:--)
:--)
:--)
:--)
) who has the whole Banks package. He wants more power but I don't know what to tell him. How compatibale is the Banks stuff with other mods, injectors for example?Read more, confused more
What do you want out of your truck? I have one thing from banks on my truck and it wasn’t worth the money.
I bought this truck less than a week ago. I had owned a 2000 7. 3 Ford dually and loved the factory power. It pulled and hauled just fine. This 3500 has no issues pulling or hauling either but the power just isn't there. It has a new ATS transmission w/ their TC and they say whatever I do to the truck they will warrant the transmission. I just want the truck to have more get up and go... nothing to blister the pavement. Just more power. Once I install whatever it is, I do not want to have to be adjusting this or that... just drive the truck like normal.
Do look at other diesel pages and bombs on here.
I've looked a lot. There seems to be a lot of programmers out there. Even in my latest 4 Wheeler mag they have a test in it on one of the Power Edge products for the 5. 9.
comes down to what do you want out of your truck. Like they say measure twice cut once... but us its look allot spend less the first time around.
I want to do it once and that's it for sure. There are a lot of products on this site with a lot of confusion to be had. It's a lot of info... . I am very familiar w/ Banks stuff on Fords but not Dodge. I've got the hook up on the Banks kit so the money is not the issue. If you take the cost out of the question is that a kit to consider or elsewhere?? I'm reading and absorbing but truth be told... there is a LOT of stuff out there. I know enough to understand more air, more fuel, the ecm to handle it and an exhaust to get rid of it makes more power.
What do you want out of your truck? I have one thing from banks on my truck and it wasn’t worth the money.
I bought this truck less than a week ago. I had owned a 2000 7. 3 Ford dually and loved the factory power. It pulled and hauled just fine. This 3500 has no issues pulling or hauling either but the power just isn't there. It has a new ATS transmission w/ their TC and they say whatever I do to the truck they will warrant the transmission. I just want the truck to have more get up and go... nothing to blister the pavement. Just more power. Once I install whatever it is, I do not want to have to be adjusting this or that... just drive the truck like normal.
Do look at other diesel pages and bombs on here.
I've looked a lot. There seems to be a lot of programmers out there. Even in my latest 4 Wheeler mag they have a test in it on one of the Power Edge products for the 5. 9.
comes down to what do you want out of your truck. Like they say measure twice cut once... but us its look allot spend less the first time around.
I want to do it once and that's it for sure. There are a lot of products on this site with a lot of confusion to be had. It's a lot of info... . I am very familiar w/ Banks stuff on Fords but not Dodge. I've got the hook up on the Banks kit so the money is not the issue. If you take the cost out of the question is that a kit to consider or elsewhere?? I'm reading and absorbing but truth be told... there is a LOT of stuff out there. I know enough to understand more air, more fuel, the ecm to handle it and an exhaust to get rid of it makes more power.
30% Restocking Fee...
I made the mistake of not doing enough research and placed an order with Banks... Before you buy anything talk to some of the people who have been BOMBing for a while & talk to some diesel mechanics... Don't just base your purchasing decision on what a company claims about themselves (they tend to be biased).
I made the mistake of not doing enough research and placed an order with Banks... Before you buy anything talk to some of the people who have been BOMBing for a while & talk to some diesel mechanics... Don't just base your purchasing decision on what a company claims about themselves (they tend to be biased)
.
I wouldn't do a banks kit.
If you have a 24V, I would run a set of Stage 2 injectors, a PE Drag COMP, a PDR 40/16 and a pusher pump by the tank. Put a Straight through design muffler, and an AFE Mega-Cannon Air filter on it. Don't forget EGT, Boost, and Trans temperature gauges.
That should run you around $3K.
If you have a 12V, I would put a plate in the ballpark of a #10, a 3K GSK, and probably leave the stock injectors in it, but would do the air, gauges, and exhaust mods.
Just my $. 02
Merrick Cummings Jr
BTW, the setup I listed for the 24V, will give you more HP, and probably more MPG than the 120HP kit you get for about the same price from Banks.
If you have a 24V, I would run a set of Stage 2 injectors, a PE Drag COMP, a PDR 40/16 and a pusher pump by the tank. Put a Straight through design muffler, and an AFE Mega-Cannon Air filter on it. Don't forget EGT, Boost, and Trans temperature gauges.
That should run you around $3K.
If you have a 12V, I would put a plate in the ballpark of a #10, a 3K GSK, and probably leave the stock injectors in it, but would do the air, gauges, and exhaust mods.
Just my $. 02
Merrick Cummings Jr
BTW, the setup I listed for the 24V, will give you more HP, and probably more MPG than the 120HP kit you get for about the same price from Banks.
If you post the details about your truck and how much you tow and about how much HP/TQ you think you need we can tell you the most cost effective combo for reliable HP.
I am guessing its a 24v so if you tow 10K lbs (just a guess) and want a little more pep you could go for DD2's and an EZ.
My Dad has a 98. 5 and we put RV275 injectors and an boost fooler in and he is happy. He tows about 14K with his truck.
Just need more info.
Bank$ is expen$ive and you don't necessarly get what you paid for.
JR2
I am guessing its a 24v so if you tow 10K lbs (just a guess) and want a little more pep you could go for DD2's and an EZ.
My Dad has a 98. 5 and we put RV275 injectors and an boost fooler in and he is happy. He tows about 14K with his truck.
Just need more info.
Bank$ is expen$ive and you don't necessarly get what you paid for.
JR2
Just did an EZ and love it
I can really feel the difference especially at the low end. Thus far the new trany is fine but made some really weird noises shifting out of park yesterday?
But I digress; I have DD2's on order after reading so many posts about the EZ/DD2 combo for towing. I really can't believe how much that EZ made the truck work. And it was SOOOO EASY to install. Hands down dollar for dollar and hour for hour this has given me the most performance bang for the "buck".
That said the best thing I have done for my towing situation has been the exhaust brake. I feel so much safer knowing that my brakes will be there when I need them.
So if you are towing my recommendation would be:
Guages (they really are not that expensive)
Exh Brake (and trany mods to handle it if Auto)
Edge EZ (or Comp if you are so inclined)
Injectors (although I have not done them; I have no doubt that what I read on these forums are true!)
I can really feel the difference especially at the low end. Thus far the new trany is fine but made some really weird noises shifting out of park yesterday?
But I digress; I have DD2's on order after reading so many posts about the EZ/DD2 combo for towing. I really can't believe how much that EZ made the truck work. And it was SOOOO EASY to install. Hands down dollar for dollar and hour for hour this has given me the most performance bang for the "buck".
That said the best thing I have done for my towing situation has been the exhaust brake. I feel so much safer knowing that my brakes will be there when I need them.
So if you are towing my recommendation would be:
Guages (they really are not that expensive)
Exh Brake (and trany mods to handle it if Auto)
Edge EZ (or Comp if you are so inclined)
Injectors (although I have not done them; I have no doubt that what I read on these forums are true!)
3500
If you post the details about your truck and how much you tow and about how much HP/TQ you think you need we can tell you the most cost effective combo for reliable HP.
It's a 3500 dually. 2001 model w/ 185 K on it. I tow a 1700 lb car hauler on it w/ a 1 ton Jeep Wrangler weighing about 5500 lbs. The truck pulls it just fine and I have no issues w/ it. I bought the truck as my daily driver. It's way slow off the line and the power just isn't there. Around town and interstate driving is what I will be doing w/ it mostly.
I am guessing its a 24v so if you tow 10K lbs (just a guess) and want a little more pep you could go for DD2's and an EZ.
I see there are several options of this EZ. Which is the recommended way to go??
Bank$ is expen$ive and you don't necessarly get what you paid for.
I can get the complete kit for the 2001's for $1400. 00. I think the normal retail on it is $2100. That is the reason I was considering it. It comes w/ an ECM upgrade that may contain the same or close to the same software as the EZ. If I can just plug in an ECM upgrade and really get noticeable power gains then I would be tempted to go that route. I kind of lean away from ECM upgrades just for the fact that JET makes them for a lot of half ton Jeeps that I am real familiar w/ and they do not perform as claimed. The 24V Diesels I have no idea if they work as claimed hence the questions... I really do not want to get into swapping injectors.
If you post the details about your truck and how much you tow and about how much HP/TQ you think you need we can tell you the most cost effective combo for reliable HP.
It's a 3500 dually. 2001 model w/ 185 K on it. I tow a 1700 lb car hauler on it w/ a 1 ton Jeep Wrangler weighing about 5500 lbs. The truck pulls it just fine and I have no issues w/ it. I bought the truck as my daily driver. It's way slow off the line and the power just isn't there. Around town and interstate driving is what I will be doing w/ it mostly.
I am guessing its a 24v so if you tow 10K lbs (just a guess) and want a little more pep you could go for DD2's and an EZ.
I see there are several options of this EZ. Which is the recommended way to go??
Bank$ is expen$ive and you don't necessarly get what you paid for.
I can get the complete kit for the 2001's for $1400. 00. I think the normal retail on it is $2100. That is the reason I was considering it. It comes w/ an ECM upgrade that may contain the same or close to the same software as the EZ. If I can just plug in an ECM upgrade and really get noticeable power gains then I would be tempted to go that route. I kind of lean away from ECM upgrades just for the fact that JET makes them for a lot of half ton Jeeps that I am real familiar w/ and they do not perform as claimed. The 24V Diesels I have no idea if they work as claimed hence the questions... I really do not want to get into swapping injectors.
Okay so here is the deal, you can add about 60 hp without any transmission problems (being a stick or auto). That leaves you with two choices, an Edge EZ or RV275 injectors. Both are a great inhancment to your truck. Add gauges, the free flowing airfilter of your choice and straight pipe the truck and you will be happy.
But here is where it gets tricky, you will want more eventually. I know right now you are saying you just want a little more pep off the line, but in the end you will want more. So what I would do is instead of an Edge EZ, I would get the Edge Comp and just don't hook up the wire to the fuel pump. That gives you an edge ez with more waiting in the wings for later.
If you want to get real serious you have to work over your transmission (auto or stick) to handle the extra power (something Banks will not tell you).
Good luck and happy BOMBing.
****EDIT*****
Since its the middle of the night I just went back and looked and you have an auto that has had the ATS treatment... . so abandon all hope and go for this:
Gauges EGT/Boost and FP $300
DD1 injectors... ... . $500
Edge Comp... ... $650
Piers HX40 Turbo $1200 (you need a better turbo)
Straight Pipe Exhaust $100 (or a 4 inch system for $500)
Air Filter upgrade $250
This setup will put you at around 400+ hp and you can still tow. I know you are saying that this is alot of $$ but remember that the stage one injectors and the Edge comp put you over the HP that Banks is capable of...
Check out www.dieseldynamics.com , they have a truck configureing thing that will help you out a bunch.
Enjoy and remember it is very addicitve. . when I started I just wanted a little more HP... now look at me, I am accepthing donations to my twin-turbo fund.
But here is where it gets tricky, you will want more eventually. I know right now you are saying you just want a little more pep off the line, but in the end you will want more. So what I would do is instead of an Edge EZ, I would get the Edge Comp and just don't hook up the wire to the fuel pump. That gives you an edge ez with more waiting in the wings for later.
If you want to get real serious you have to work over your transmission (auto or stick) to handle the extra power (something Banks will not tell you).
Good luck and happy BOMBing.
****EDIT*****
Since its the middle of the night I just went back and looked and you have an auto that has had the ATS treatment... . so abandon all hope and go for this:
Gauges EGT/Boost and FP $300
DD1 injectors... ... . $500
Edge Comp... ... $650
Piers HX40 Turbo $1200 (you need a better turbo)
Straight Pipe Exhaust $100 (or a 4 inch system for $500)
Air Filter upgrade $250
This setup will put you at around 400+ hp and you can still tow. I know you are saying that this is alot of $$ but remember that the stage one injectors and the Edge comp put you over the HP that Banks is capable of...
Check out www.dieseldynamics.com , they have a truck configureing thing that will help you out a bunch.
Enjoy and remember it is very addicitve. . when I started I just wanted a little more HP... now look at me, I am accepthing donations to my twin-turbo fund.
Last edited:
Just to put things in perspective, if you have a 6-speed manual, all you'll have to worry about as you increase the BHP & torque is the clutch. Mine is fine with just the EZ, but I have DD2's on order. I tow a 13,500 lb 36' 5th wheel RV, so I'm prepared to upgrade to a South Bend CON O-FE clutch if required.
Rusty
see sig
I tow 8k 5er now, going to tow 13k+ in 2. 500124567 years, but who is counting, lol.
I did Edge Comp so I could turn it on and off and adjust it from the drivers seat.
DD2's after reading threads for a couple of weeks. Not bad to install yourself, lots of instructions on the threads.
KSB1B is overkill, but definitely pleanty of air, ie little to no smoke.
4" if you go over 350hp (which you probably will) is a rule of thumb I think.
Remote US Gear because the KSB1B left zero room in the engine compartment and I will never have to change it if I change the turbo.
You have done the transmission thing, but with a exhaust brake you will need some sort of converter lockup device. I would contact your transmission rebuilder for their recommendations.
I think the stock air box is ok to ??? 350hp? else there are several large air filters
DEFINITELY gauges for fp, egt, boost, transmission heat can be an issue that can get $$$ quick if you don't monitor it.
Bob Weis
I tow 8k 5er now, going to tow 13k+ in 2. 500124567 years, but who is counting, lol.
I did Edge Comp so I could turn it on and off and adjust it from the drivers seat.
DD2's after reading threads for a couple of weeks. Not bad to install yourself, lots of instructions on the threads.
KSB1B is overkill, but definitely pleanty of air, ie little to no smoke.
4" if you go over 350hp (which you probably will) is a rule of thumb I think.
Remote US Gear because the KSB1B left zero room in the engine compartment and I will never have to change it if I change the turbo.
You have done the transmission thing, but with a exhaust brake you will need some sort of converter lockup device. I would contact your transmission rebuilder for their recommendations.
I think the stock air box is ok to ??? 350hp? else there are several large air filters
DEFINITELY gauges for fp, egt, boost, transmission heat can be an issue that can get $$$ quick if you don't monitor it.
Bob Weis
The way your truck sits now is about 200-220RWHP, the setup JR2 is talking about will put you at 400RWHP. That's 100% more power for $3,400. You get a new turbo, and a 120HP "box".
This setup will seriously roast any other diesel pickup off the road, and should give you about 1 more MPG.
Merrick Cummings Jr
- Status
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
Turbo Diesel Register
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
