battery isolator voids warranty?

[rbattelle]

I guess I have to explain every statement I make here to steve.

:-laf :-laf [insert sounds of sinckering]

 

[sag2]

Well it appears the B+ terminal at the 7 way trailer plug is not driven through the TIPM. I hooked up a halogen headlamp bulb to it and took the dog for a walk. When I got back the lamp was still on (and melted the plastic trailer ball plug in the bumper, oops) so it is not part of the load shedding logic in the TIPM. It appears it is wired directly to battery through fuse 12.

So the verdict would be, yes you can drain your truck battery(s) through the trailer. So I would vote for a battery isolator or relay to only power it up with the ignition on if you are worried about discharging the truck battery while camping.

 

[TCDiesel]

Sag2, Now you can Mod your Plug... I melted the Plug on My 2003 twice

 

[MCrossley]

under 14.7 volts are you crazy?

I' you should see close to 15 + volts at the plug... Now plug in your trailer and let it charge for a bit and measure the voltage at the trailer batteries... if its under 14. 7 volts the batteries will never come up to charge... .



I hope you have some really good batteries 14. 4 volts is the industry standard for battery charging and 13. 7 - 14 is the normal float voltage 14. 7 - 15 would be considered an equalizing charge which if you are doing on a regular basis will boil the battery. Just curious how you find that under 14. 7 volts you will not charge the batteries?

 

[MChildress]

The three Fords I'v owned had to have the ignition on to get power back to my horse trailer for interior and porch lights (no battery in trailer). This would keep you from discharging your batteries. The Dodge is nice not having to start or turn on the ignition for trailer power while hooking up and loading,but an isolator would be useful in preventing a discharge.

 

[Tee]

Used klenger''s diagram to tie in my Lance Camper wiring pigtail. Worked perfectly!!!!!



Thanks Klenger Oo.

 

[cosborne]

Dodge is the only one to not use a disconnect in their trailer plug for the charge wire. Ford and GMC have this built in. The simplest solution is a $12 continuous duty solenoid at the battery for the charge line. Most camper install shops have these. If you don't use one (or something) and keep your plug plugged in you WILL drain your starting batteries... .

 

[fkovalski]

I have been following this thread (and others) as I am trying to get a proper hook- up to my truck camper. Help me out with a couple of things:



According to diagram below, this appears to be the 7 pin wiring from the factory. The adapter pull off a flat 4 connector. This flat 4 is only for L/R turn (and brake), running lamps and ground... . correct?



I would like to be able to have a similar setup, but tap all 7 wires rathewr than just 4 to route what ever I need without cutting into the fatory wiring harness... does such an animal exist?

... . I'm curious as to if there is anything to prevent the truck's electrical load from pulling power from the trailer batteries??

I too am concerned about this happening. I would like to install an isolator without cutting into the truck’s harness. Is there an isolator that can be connected (in series) and mounted in the RV.



Essentially, I want to tap off the existing from the trucks factory setup (with an adapter similar to the one in the diagram- using 7 instead of 4), then go into some sort of isolator, then into the RV. Is this scenario possible?

 

[klenger]

See my webpage at http://www.klenger.net/dodge/7-pin-connector-installation/index.html for a correct interpertation of the drawing. The drawing is NOT for a factory cable. It is for an aftermarket Reese cable.

 

[fkovalski]

See my webpage at http://www.klenger.net/dodge/7-pin-connector-installation/index.html for a correct interpertation of the drawing. The drawing is NOT for a factory cable. It is for an aftermarket Reese cable.

Item "B" in the diagram is the Reese part... right? Is there one available that will tap 7 instead of just 4?



or do I have to modify one as you have shown?

 

[DBond]

I would like to be able to have a similar setup, but tap all 7 wires rathewr than just 4 to route what ever I need without cutting into the fatory wiring harness... does such an animal exist?

I haven't heard of one that has the full 7 pin. People are making these 4 pin adapters into 7 pin, all 7 pin wires are available in the 4 pin adapter, so splices can be limited to the adapter, but that will leave you with the factory 14 AWG power unless you add a run up to the battery.

I too am concerned about this happening. I would like to install an isolator without cutting into the truck's harness. Is there an isolator that can be connected (in series) and mounted in the RV.

You could put a voltage sensing isolator such as the Hellroaring BIC-75150A

http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75150.php

in the RV. However voltage drop on the wimpy factory 14 AWG could cause the isolator to disconnect.

 

[Bob4x4]

Dodge is the only one to not use a disconnect in their trailer plug for the charge wire. Ford and GMC have this built in. The simplest solution is a $12 continuous duty solenoid at the battery for the charge line. Most camper install shops have these. If you don't use one (or something) and keep your plug plugged in you WILL drain your starting batteries... .

The use of mechanicle switching devices on computer controlled vehicles are going away. Everytime a switch is opened or closed a vlotage spike will be produced. This is not good.



Bob

 

[cosborne]

Thats why the best way to do this is to run a completely seperate power wire to the new in bed plug from the solenoid... . my camper guys have done this on 126 2006 Dodge 2500 and 3500's... .



My 2 cents... .

 

[fkovalski]

I just spoke with a gentleman at Hellroaring and he was very informative about how their products work for the application being discussed. Their isolator/ combiner works as a component. That is- it taps on to 1 of the battery terminals. No need to connect an alternator line or cut into any of the vehicles existing wires.



He furthermore stated that the stock 14 ga. wire really is not very desirable for current demands of an RV’s electrical system. The recommendation was for at least 10 ga. preferably 8.



In the context of my questions, I have decide I will most likely go the following route:



Look into purchasing the appropriate Hellroaring product. In my case it is BIC 95150B. Mount the BIC in the engine compartment near the existing fuse box and tap the driver’s side battery. Install a 30A breaker (fuse is an alternate). A larger capacity breaker may be too heavy duty for a TC application such as mine.



Run the 8 ga wire in an old garden hose conduit from the BIC back to and up the bed and directly feed the power requirements of the TC only.



This method will get me the power I need for the camper. I will worry later about tapping the correct feed to run the clearance light so as to not have to worry about connection back at the plug (or elsewhere) for now. Fortunately, I do not have the need to deal with turn signals as the TC sets completely within the bed.



Thanks to all for the advice- I have a better understanding and confidence about installing the right isolator for my needs.



-frank.



On Edit: As to the initial post #1... since this type of install is similar to that of a component, it should not void any DC warranty.