Battery Rules (Buying 2 sets of new batt's)

[CoreyPerez]

Hey Folks,



I'm getting ready to replace 2 sets of batteries, and both are in different config's. The first is in my 94 Dodge w/ Cummins & the other is in my 88 K5 W/ Hellroaring Dual Batt Isolator. I remember a long time ago I got some good information, and can only remember vauge rules about how you sould buy batteries and it depended on how they were configured. There is something floating around in my head about getting 2 batteries from the same production run and that are numerically inorder as far as serial number (batt1 Serial #: 100001, Batt2 Serial# 100002). I"ve pretty much decided I'm sticking with Sears Range Handler's or about that level. The current batterys in the Dodge are Champion, and the one in the blazer (range handler) only died because the wife wasn't able to get it charged after the battery died (alt. quit working).



Thanks for your suggestions about how to purchase these batt's.



Corey 88K5 & 94 CTD

 

[klenger]

I've never heard of trying to get two consecutive batteries. I would think that would be hard to do. As I understand it, you need to replace both batteries at the same time with the same model.

 

[Deezal Man]

As been said, its is important to get the same model battery, and replace both at the same time. Buying 2 from the same lot # is a good idea if possible... but not mandatory. "Theoretically, lot # should not matter... . but you know how that goes.



Looking for consecutively manufactured batteries is a waste of time. Sorta like making sure all 11 quarts of oil were produced consecutively.

 

[PHaller]

The reason for same lot or consecutive numbers is so the 2 batteries you buy have nearly the same internal resistance. If one battery has been around a year and the other is new the older battery will have a larger internal resistance. You can guestimate the internal resistance of a battery by checking batteries with a digital volt meter when fully charged. Most shops keep all their batterys charged and simply checking voltage of the disconnected battery will give you a pretty good idea as to how old it is. Check the charge voltage ... probably around 13. 8 volts then check voltages on the 2 batteries your going to buy. They should be within 5 hundreths of a volt difference. Like 12. 65 vs 12. 63. If not, look for another pair.

-Paul R. Haller-

 

[rrausch]

Batteries also have a date code on them. I won't buy one if it is more than a few months old, I'll request a newer one. The date code contains one letter and one number, generally heat-stamped onto the side of the batt. or printed on a circular sticker.

The letters go A-L. A, meaning the batt. was manufactured in January and L indicating the batt. was man'f in December. The numbers 0-9 mean the year the batt was manufactured.

For instance, H-1 on the batt would mean the battery was made in Aug. 2001. I NEVER buy a battery over 4 months old, and I prefer one only a month old. If you are buying 2 batts, for our beloved Cummins', buy them with the SAME date code.

 

[Bad340fish]

I work for Interstate Batteries. I really have nothing to add to the stuff above at all. But you DO want both batteries to have the same date code on them. Just as habbit I glance at the dates on batteries wherever I see them sold. And I will tell you one thing Sears has some old &^%$ out there. One advantage of Interstate is they recharge the product after its on the shelf for 3 months. Although I(IMHO) don't think it matters if the battery is 6 months old when it is installed as long as it is kept charged!! Go buy a cheap voltmeter and check em out... don't buy anything less than 12. 3 volts

Clark

 

[DHawthorne]

As said above, its best to buy both at once. I've been driving dual battery installations since 1978 when I had my 5. 7 Diesel Station

Wagon and Cady Seville. Went from that to a 6. 2 Suburban 2500 and so on. I have found that you would be well advised to buy two good quality batterys in stead of something from Walmart or similiar. Even though Wal-mart will replace them with no questions and for about 7 years I never paid for a complete battery price, I never knew when it was going to go south.



I'm now using AC Delco Sealed batterys in by 96 Cummings and

will install them in my 2000 Cummings when its time. All the hydrogen blow bye from the cheaper batteries just corrodes everthing in its path. No more dirty battery terminals or ate out

metal trays or supports. No more loss of battery power through

the wetness on the venting battery or acid holed paints and shirts. The new trucks are coming with sealed batteries. Stick with them, you won't regret it.



Also I noticed your in NC. Hot weather makes the cheaper batteries go south quicker. Some of my problems were heat related in Florida during the summer. Water evaporation. Sealed

batteries don't do that.



Dave

 

[Turbo Thom]

Dave:

You say the batterys in NC. go "south" quicker with the cheaper ones. Since you are already in the south possibly the battery will go north. That would be the better direction for something going bad.



:reston::

 

[Bad340fish]

Unless it is an AGM type battery(optima is one of them... delco does make one but have not seen it available anywhere) it will use water(in hot weather). Just because you can't remove the caps doesn't mean it will not use water. It just means that you can't fill it back up. I sell around 400 batteries a week so I pick up at least that many core exchange batteries to go with those sales. I have picked up delcos before that are dry(very light). Delco does make a great battery. I just don't go for the whole maitenence free part. Just don't buy a sidepost delco for anything. . I bet at least 50% of the sidepost delcos I pick up have the whole + post ripped out



Clark

 

[WCrovo]

We sell and have sold Interstate batteries for years and found them to be the best. The reps keep them fresh on the shelf. If you buy an Interstate the date will be OK. They rotate them on a regular basis. We see so many failures on other brands it would make your head spin. Most of those "other" brand batteries fail long before their warrenty dose. We hate comebacks so we use Interstate exclusivly.

 

[Scollins]

Not much to add to this thread but this: The two batteries for the CTD need to be identical, but not for your Blazer. You are using a Hellroaring battery isolator/combiner in that vehicle, and it is not necessary that both batteries be identical. You can have one as a deep-cycle and one as a starting battery. This setup is mentioned in Hellroaring's FAQ at the bottom of the page.

http://www.hellroaring.com/index.htm



If you can find them, the Black Panther Predator batteries seem to be top notch. These are dry cell batteries capable of delivering 1000 amps each. Plus, they are smaller than your typical car battery, so can usually put two batteries in the space of one. BUT, they are very expesive (about $190 for the BP-1000. ) They can be mounted in any position, as they are dry.



I will eventually relocate my batteries back behind the cab along the frame rails. This should get almost 100 lbs off the front axle... ... ...



NOTE: I don't work for either company.

 

[RottnDogue]

Scott when you do this you must post the how to's for the change over.



Darren

Originally posted by Scollins

Not much to add to this thread but this: The two batteries for the CTD need to be identical, but not for your Blazer. You are using a Hellroaring battery isolator/combiner in that vehicle, and it is not necessary that both batteries be identical. You can have one as a deep-cycle and one as a starting battery. This setup is mentioned in Hellroaring's FAQ at the bottom of the page.

http://www.hellroaring.com/index.htm



If you can find them, the Black Panther Predator batteries seem to be top notch. These are dry cell batteries capable of delivering 1000 amps each. Plus, they are smaller than your typical car battery, so can usually put two batteries in the space of one. BUT, they are very expesive (about $190 for the BP-1000. ) They can be mounted in any position, as they are dry.



I will eventually relocate my batteries back behind the cab along the frame rails. This should get almost 100 lbs off the front axle... ... ...



NOTE: I don't work for either company.

 

[WestTN]

Battery rules

I, too, buy my batteries with consecutive serial numbers. The metal chemistry will vary slightly from batch to batch, but two from the same batch are pretty much identical. I found mine at Sam's Club. They stock batteries by the skid!

 

[Turbo Thom]

OK:

So what is the results of miss-matched batteries? I now have a problem of the batteries boiling over. Not matched numbers. I thought the alternator/voltage regulator was bad. Could it be the batteries?



. . Preston. .

 

[WestTN]

boiling over

It isn't likely this is caused by mismatching batteries. This is probably overcharging or overfilling. Just check the voltage while your truck is idling. It should never be much over 14. 6 volts in very cold weather. 14. 4 is about normal for 60 to 70 degrees.

Another thing that can happen is that some batteries have poorly designed caps which allow the acid to slosh out when driving.



Good luck and Merry Christmas!!

 

[Motorhead]

I am not connected in any way with Interstate Batteries. Theirs is the only battery that I use. I have 3 Diesel MBZ's, all with Interstates. I drove a VW diesel for 19 years and got an average of 7+ years on each battery. When the two in my Dodge go south, Interstates go in. Keep batteries clean,filled with DISTILLED water,and make sure that your charging system doesn't over or under charge. MY $. 02 Chris

 

[Big K]

Interstate gel cell ?

I have Optima batteries in everything I own that does not have the oem battery still in it. Three red's and a yellow(deep cycle). A wrench turner friend uses exclusively Interstate, and I value his opinion. I have had no problem with the Optima's, they're mainly in my Jeeps, and see severe duty. I believe that Interstate markets a battery of this same design, but I don't know if they make it, or sublet the manufacture, and market it under their brand name. Perhaps Clark can check in and set me straight on this. For ease of mounting, it is wise to buy a battery of the same group, and size/configuration, unless you want to re-fab your mounts. If you re-build your mounts, try to avoid the bungee-cord method.

 

[CoreyPerez]

Back in the day...



I had been interested in the Optima's, and they are great for severe duty, but the warr. on them suck. Granted, a lot can be said, the Military (air force) uses them for the mobile arresting system for our F-15's and for our Generators, but as far as for me, I want something with a warranty that will last more than a year. Atleast with my range handler, I've got quite a bit of prorate on them! If it was a $125 optima I'd be out a lot of money. The situation that killed the battery would have killed the optima also. Its not quite so much a junk battery, just that I'm currently doing duty in TX, and the Blazer is in NC. The Alternator died on the blazer and then the battery went. It sat for over 2 weeks dead, and now its toast.



I'm leaning towards the Autozone batt's. In Texas (Wichita Falls) they give 10% discount to us "Greenies"



Thanks,



Corey

(SSgt. Perez, USAF)

 

[Bad340fish]

Optima's

In may of this year Johnson Controls Inc. bought the Optima Corporation. Johnson Controls makes Interstate and many other popular batteries(Die Hard GOLD, Duralast, many more). So in May the Interstate Label Optima died out and interstate dealers carry a standard Optima Label battery now. The Interstate label was a true Optima it even said optima on the cover.



IMHO(seen lots of dead ones) the yellow tops just flat suck. All the Car Stereo shops I sell to droped them due to warranty problems, and the short warranty on the yellow really hacks people off when they have to drop $100 on an 18 month old battery. All of them went with reds and have never had a regret. The red(from interstate... not sure if you buy it elsewhere) has a 24 month free replacement and a 72 month pro-rate. I think retail is around $131. I know my truck is getting 2 red tops here pretty soon. Even at COST those babies are not cheap lol.



If i was in a pinch and could not get an interstate battery from work Duralast would be my first choice, or any JCI made battery for that matter. If you can get 10% off of the Duralast Go for it



But if your looking for American Made product the Interstate line from JCI is the only one that will for sure be %100 made in USA. I have seen some duralast product with made in mexico stickers on them. There is a JCI plant in San Antonio I believe that pumps out Interstates.



Have fun

Clark

 

[CoreyPerez]

Thats funny!



I'm headed to San Antonio in a few hours!!!!



I didn't know that Optima's actaully had a warr. on them. When I was looking at them for my Blazer (offroad truck) they only had a year on them, and after that, you were screwed. Thats why I went with something with a warr. I have always HATED autozone, nothing but a bunch of friggin idiots behind the counter, Advance sucks pretty badly also. NAPA is the only place I really like, but in Goldsboro NC, the NAPA there is actually worse then Autozone & Advance put together! I"m still leaning toward the Duralast mainly becauase there are autozone's EVERYWHERE, so a replacement issue shouldn't be a problem, and the 10% is pretty cool also!



Thanks,



Corey