Bed Tie Downs and An Idea I have....

[BHenn]

This is in regard to the bed tie downs nearest the cab on my 2006 Quad Cab. I am looking for a solution to loading my ATV, running or not, by winching up my very short loading ramp. I have searched for tie down ratings, but can't seem to find the information. My main issue is my ramp is a bit short for the tall tailgate height of the Ram trucks. It is a quality ramp, but only 69" long which makes for a very steep ascent and descent. I just don't want to pony up the money for a longer ramp.



My proposed solution is this... ... ... .



Remove both tie down cleats nearest the cab. Get myself a solid piece of square stock, 3/16"-1/4" thick, maybe 2"x2". Cut it to length, weld on two end pieces, drill holes in ends to match up to the tie bolt holes. Then bolt it in, spanning the width of the bed. Weld or bolt on an I-bolt in the center of the spanning steel, and done. Hook the ATV winch cable to I-bolt and go.



Would this support the winching of the ATV up and down the ramp, in your opinion? Best case while loading, the ATV is running and providing it's own power with an assist from the winch. I figure it would be a great system also if the ATV was dead, and needed to be loading to get home. Would also be used to unload the ATV, unloaded with winch power.



The angle of the ramp is probably in excess of 50 degrees, and feels much worse. Way too much pucker factor for me. I know it is probably not too bad, but it scares the bejesus out of me. I just want a safer load/unload. The ATV weighs about 650# plus rider. I figure it will always be a rolling pull, so I think it might just work. A friend on mines claims to have winched his quad into his chevy pulling on just one tie down point. Please let me know your thoughts as I do not want to rip out my bedsides... . If this is posted in the wrong section, I apologize.



Thanks,

Brent

 

[cojhl2]

Would'nt it be better to use angle for the cross piece? Maybe 3/16 x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2.



Other than that little change you have a good idea.

 

[Bob4x4]

Would'nt it be better to use angle for the cross piece? Maybe 3/16 x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2.



Other than that little change you have a good idea.

Angle is not as strong as square tubing... ... ... .....



Bob

 

[cojhl2]

You are correct Bob, square tubing is even better.



Either is better than the "Get myself a solid piece of square stock, 3/16"-1/4" thick" as Brent started with, in my opinion.

 

[BHenn]

By square stock I mean square tubing. So do you all think this idea would support the winching? Will I be in any danger of tearing the bedsides at the mounting points? After removing the cleats and inspecting how much metal I have to work with at the mounting points I am a bit concerned. It is pretty thin. I guess there is only one way to figure it out, build it, mount it, and pull on it. My only cost will be the square tube and 4 bolts, so I think I will go for it.



Brent

 

[JWChessell]

What about wedging a 2X8 or 2X10 into the load-separation slots near the front of the bed and pulling from there? Then you can quickly take it out any time you want... . ?

 

[BHenn]

That is a thought, but wouldn't really get me all the way in. I am working with a short bed, and the ATV, when loaded, is sitting with its nose about an inch from my over the rail toolbox. My proposed bar idea would all be under the toolbox which is pretty much unused space in my situation.



Come on, someone please tell me these bedsides are strong enough for this application. Who out there has torture tested these tie down points in the Ram truck?



Thanks,

Brent

 

[BigPapa]

On flat ground with a 69" ramp your tailgate has to be @ 4. 5' high to get over 45*. That's nothing on an ATV. I would imagine you go up and down 45* angles on the trails all the time and don't even think about it. It's just the ramp that's got you freaked. Just make sure to tie the ramp to the truck where it won't slide out from under you. Take it slow and easy, don't hit the ramp with much speed, it will bend. Practice it several times and you'll be OK in no time. Try to find a little step, rise, or a ditch to back your truck into to help decrease the angle the first few times. No need in going to all the trouble or spending the money for what your describing.



If you do go the route you described, do not use the winch to tie the ATV down in the truck. I have several winches here at the shop with stripped gears from folks using the winch to tie the ATV down. There's just too much pressure on them when you go over a severe bump in the truck.



Scott

 

[steved]

So you intend to use the tailgate as a fairlead? You'll be dragging the cable over the tailgate, essentially pulling the tailgate down... and you'll end up with a bent gate like mine. Mine bent loading a garden tractor that weighed around 600 pounds... just search my name and tailgate for some picts of the damage.



IMHO, I'd opt for something that would be placed in the stake pockets (assuming you don't have a tool box) to get the winch point up higher...



If you do go your route, I'd also add an support at the eye bolt, nearer to the center of the bed (or one along each side of the eyebolt to distribute it) to either the floor or the front of the bed... if you don't, you'll either rip the bolts out of the sides or bow the tubing... you got to remember that, even though that tubing is strong, you are putting a lot of load in the center of that tubing that is not supported.



IIRC, there is also a main support crossmember under the very front of the bed... you could simply take a short piece of tubing and attach it to the floor, then run your eyebolt through that.



But I'd seriously consider moving the anchor point higher.



steved

 

[BHenn]

I do not have any intentions of using the Winch as I tie down, but thanks for your advice. I hear ya, and it will climb the ramp just fine. Heck, the thing will climb right up a wall if the rider is willing to hang on. I just want a little safer load and unload procedure. I don't want to tip over, for instance when I near the peak of the ramp with the front tires I have to be very quick to get off the gas and on the brake, otherwise I plow into my toolbox. If I get off the gas too soon I roll back down the ramp. If while rolling back down and grab the wrong brake, the rear brake in this case, could I not tip over backwards? I love the thrill and adventure of my ATV, just could use a bit less thrill and adventure while loading/unloading. That is all I am shooting for here.



Thanks,

Brent

 

[Boondocker]

I was going to suggest mounting the angle iron behind the bed head (between bed and cab). That would distribute the load across the entire bed. You would have to drill through the bed to mount it and the I-bolt. But I notice you mention a tool box. If you have a cross-the-bed box, this idea might not work, depending how high you want the hitch point, unless you're willing lose that toolbox, maybe go with something side mounted instead.

 

[JBallou]

Wear your helmet when loading and unloading no matter what you decide.

 

[CookJ]

Why not introduce a third anchor point in the center of the bed, right below your proposed eye bolt? Just weld the same size tubing to a base plate and drill for mounting through bed. james



james

 

[AKAMAC]

Can't you put your square tubing inside your tool box and bolt it to the bed rails. Your pulling angle would be a lot better and no rust pocket/ debris holding area under tool box. Just a 1/2" eye-bolt sticking out the back of box.

 

[JCrockett]

You could also take your square tubing and run it across the top of the bed rails, right behind the tool box, bolt it to the tool box and bolt the tubing to the top of the bed rail. Or use a J hook but it would not be as effective. Then you could put your hook in the center of the tubing like you mentioned. This would raise your anchor point so you will not damage your tailgate. Similiar to what AKAMAC has stated



Some pics of your current set up would also help so we can get an idea of what your dealing with.

 

[basilry]

I used the tie downs in my bed once to winch my dead atv into the back and it held. I was a little leary of doing it because I could only pull from one side but it held. So pulling from both points with a sold piec of stock should work good. The only thing that I did not like was the fact that the winch cable was rubbing on my bedliner until the atv was far enough up the ramp. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[JimB1]

Two seperate suggestions.

1) Tho' I've not looked, I'm guessing the tie-down bolt holes are nut-zerted into sheet metal. Seemingly strong 'till the sheet metal surrounding the swedged nut flexes a bit then nut-zert easily lets go.



You could distribute the sheet metal load much better via installing a steel backing plate, over the tie-down bolt holes, maybe 12x12x3/8.



Around the perimeter of the backing plate equally distributed, make 12 additional holes with corresponding nut-zerts into OEM sheetmetal sidewall.



Then the crossbar ends could be bolted to additional holes of backing plate.



OR



2) How about a S&W turn-over ball set-up right up at front of box.



You could then make any custom winching hitch post you like to plug in and NEVER worry about strength or best height to pull from.

 

[BHenn]

Thank you all, very interesting ideas. My toolbox is far from stout and I don't think it would support much of a pull. It is pretty thin AL. I like the idea of a higher point to pull on, just not sure where or how, not without drilling a bunch of holes. I guess the best solution would be to make or buy a stout headache rack with a pull point just higher than the tool box. That would be sweet. This weekend I will set my ramp and start the ATV up the ramp. Then I will pull out the winch rope to see what sort of pull angle might be best. Ideally I wouldn't start pulling with the winch until the ATV was well up the ramp. Just looking for that little "winch assist" to get the ATV over the top. Controlled, safe, and no abrupt ATV/toolbox contact. Same type of method on unloading. Start backing down the ramp with winch hook attached, but only attached to slow the descent once the ATV gets steep on the ramp. The main reason I am after using the existing tie points is because the holes are already there. I don't want to drill holes in the bed or rails unless absolutely necessary. I will do some poking around this weekend and see what happens. Thanks again, and yes, I am a believer in a helmet with an ATV at all times.



Brent

 

[4 wheelssmoking]

To test your theory why dont you use a cable or rope tied between the cleats and then hook to that. This would distribute the load between the two cleats and also self center the winch cable. Simple and no mods necessary to your truck.
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[steved]

To test your theory why dont you use a cable or rope tied between the cleats and then hook to that. This would distribute the load between the two cleats and also self center the winch cable. Simple and no mods necessary to your truck.

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The only thing I see is that the rope would allow the cleats to be "levered back" at an angle, and also pulls the sides of the bed inward... placing the steel tubing across them forces the load to be a shearing load on the bolts, and eliminates the tendency to pull the bedsides inward.



Your idea is good for seeing if the angle would work...



I'm not sure I'd trust those cleats anyway... they are only plastic, and held on by two small bolts...



steved