Bed Tie Downs and An Idea I have....

[BHenn]

Cojhl2,



You may indeed be right. The loading at a depression works and I have used that method a few times in the past. It works great when that method is available, but where I have been riding it is not available. I am not going to depend on that method. I am just looking for something safe and reliable, and this little project may be just the ticket. I am not in a position to fork over another $100-$150 for a longer ramp. Would that be the smartest thing to do? Probably, but I enjoy fabbing up stuff and may just do it.



Brent

 

[Thunderbolt]

I have an Arctic Cat 400 4x4 and a short bed. I bought aluminum ramps at Lowe's. They have a bit of an arch to them. I line up on them and put the atv in 4-lo and crawl right up. I have done this with a deer on the rack and me on the seat. The ramps are rated at 1,500 lbs. They don't complain.

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Good Luck!

 

[BigPapa]

Frankly I think you guys are making a big issue out of nothing.

They're driving me INSANE! :--)



I can't hold it any longer... ... ... ... .



I'm sorry, but if you can't ride that 700 Grizz up that ramp you need to find another hobby. That's not even 45*.



Scott

 

[BHenn]

Hey BigPapa,



All I am doing is trying to avoid a mishap while loading, that is it. And to have a means of getting the quad loaded should it crap out on me. I decide which posts that interest me. If this one is not doing it for you, then move on.



Brent

 

[BHenn]

I finished up my bed bar a few days ago. It turned out very well. I winched up the ATV and it worked very, very well. I saw no movement of the bedsides and no flex on the bar. I think I have a winner and also now have additional tie-down points that are much more accessible.

 

[steved]

So is it attached to the tops of the rails or the sides of the bed?? Can you shoot a pict of the bed attachment point? It looks good!

I'm build a cradle for my toolbox... its cracking because of the weight I have in it at times (aluminum work hardens when bent to shape). I'll have a similar bar to your's when its complete, but it will also have a matching one on the front of the box, as well as a headache rack.

Hopefully I'll build it this weekend.

 

[BHenn]

Yes, I will get another picture. The bar is attached to Angle iron that is bolted to the top of the bed rail and thru the tool box.



Brent

 

[BigPapa]

Looks good Brent. You build that yourself? Looks like you gained an antenna mount, too.



Hope your not still sore at me.



Scott

 

[steved]

Mine is almost completed... still got some welding to do...

 

[BHenn]

Yes, I built from all 3/16 material. The bar is 2x2 square stock and the angle iron is 2. 5" x 3" if I remember correctly. Stuck it all together with 7018. Did the bar to angle iron at 125 volts DC and the rings at about 115 DC. I got the rings from US Cargo Control for about $7-$8 each. I had originally had the CB antenna mounted to the toolbox, but yes, have now moved it to the bar.



Steve, yes, mounted thru the top of the bed rail with two 7/16" bolts on each side. I basically copied your drawing to the letter in regards to the mounting. The only thing I would have done different was used 3x3 angle as I believe you suggested. I ended up with a couple holes too near the side of the angle. To close to get a washer on the bolt. I had to grind a flat on a couple washers in order to get the washer on.



Brent

 

[BHenn]

Here are a few bad pictures, but the best I have with my camera.





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Brent

 

[steved]

Looks good...



I've constructed mine very similar... used 3x4x0. 25 angle (4" side down) for the rails, 2x3x0. 25 rectangle for the back bar, and 2x3x1/8 rectangle for the front bar. All welded with 7014, although I do not pretend to be a welder by any stretch of the imagination. I then went the cheap route and used a 3" x 3/8" rod muffler clamp hoop (from my previous truck) for a pull point.



I also "customized" a universal fit headache bar to the front... had to cut it down, widen it, and put some different bends in the side plates to get the box to open, but it turned out pretty good.



It was 5*F and almost zero visibility when we left last night, so it didn't get painted yet.



I made mine for mainly one reason, to cradle the toolbox since it is literally falling apart. I'm hoping once it is all together that the cradle will support the box better, and prevent it from progressing any further than it already has...



And don't get me wrong, the material I used was literally laying around... I did not purposely buy it to build this thing. So if it appears overkill, it probably is! I figure it weighs around 75#s.

 

[brods]

Nice Job BHenn. Like your PS holder in the tool box too.



I can see how you'd be hesitant to ride the quad up into the bed. Given how thin the tailgate sheetmetal is and how easily it dents I don't trust the tailgate (or the cables) and just remove the tailgate when loading anything heavy. I've had cables snap on other trucks (usually from rust on the inside) and don't trust them much anymore.

 

[BHenn]

Steve,



I am also not a welder, I only pretend to be one on the weekends. Fact is I love to weld. If I were 10 years younger and could afford to "start over", I would very much like to take a shot at welding for a living. I just sold my 110 volt Lincoln MIG and will be buying a Miller 180 in the next week or two. I am very excited about that! I look forward to seeing your project. It sounds beefy. I to want a headache rack, but don't think I am at the skill level to build one well enough to adorn my truck. I am afraid mine would turn out bad.



Brods,



Thanks, and speaking of beefy. That PS holder you see is made from 1/4" plate!!!! It is what I had at the time so figured what the hell. From the looks of it now I think I should hit it with a little paint.



Are our tailgate cables weak? Lots of failures reported? I may have to look at some replacements if this is the case. When loaded, my ATV rear wheels rest right on the tailgate, smack dab in the middle of the tailgate. I secure it with the Louisiana Guard Dog, a heavy duty steel contraption attached to truck receiver hitch and ATV receiver hitch. I don't think the ATV will immediately fall out if the tailgate cables fail, but worry it could, and certainly my tailgate would suffer some damage. I also use ratchet straps just in case. Anyone have a lead of better tailgate cables if ours are really weak?



Thanks,

Brent

 

[steved]

IMO, the tailgate itself is the weak spot on the 3rd gens, more so than the cables...



Mine is in pretty bad shape...

 

[brods]

I thought the PS holder was made out of wood... I had to look at it again to see its metal. 1/4" plate is certainly stout!



I don’t mean to get you unnecessarily concerned about the cables. I have had them break when the plastic coating cracks and allows water in which rusts the cable. Certainly do inspect them regularly if you are going to run down the road with a load on the tailgate.



I have not seen any load information for the cables or the tailgate for that matter, but like Steve I have noticed how easily the tailgate dents and how the top outer edge can be bent with your fingers



Stepping up onto the tailgate with the topper shell on my back really made me think about what would happen if it let go. I do not do that anymore, lol.

 

[RCMerrill]

Put the 3/16 angle on the out side of your box at the bottom & use 2 3/8

bolts to hold there & put your eye bolt to that. you will not have to worry about welds breaking. mine worked great! Ray.

 

[rneger]

You have no issues here the AVT's will climb steeper angles then 50 degrees. What I would do is drive it up backwards, that way if it started to roll back - just drive it straight. I've been loading big tractors and farm equip. on trailers and have found that loading up backwards is much safer and easier.

Give it try.