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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Best way to cure crankcase vent hose from blowing oil on engine

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Tracking down oil leak

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I'm getting to work on fixing up my 02.
The entire left side and underside of the engine, axle and trans looks like someone sprayed it with oil.
I've read a few things on the hose and bottle and I'm thinking of just removing the bottle and extending the hose down about 3' and securing it to the axle or further back on a trans mount somewhere.
This worked ok on my 03 and also eliminated the oil smell in the cab.
Whats the consensus for the best cure?
 
You definitely want to re-located the crankcase breather and get it far away from the front of the engine. How many miles on your truck? Have you removed the radiator yet for external cleaning on the front side which collects oil soaked debris that is caused by the oily mist coming from the crankcase vent?

I have tried several re-configurations of the crankcase ventilation system. My most recent one I believe will work well. I copied the idea from someone else and did some slight modifications.

I used three pieces of one-inch PVC pipe, one 90 degreed fitting, and one 45 degree fitting.. I ran the first pipe right along the driver's side of the valve cover for the full length of the valve cover. Standing at the front of the vehicle and facing the engine, I added a 90 degree fitting with a second short pipe to the end of the first pipe and pointed the second pipe downward at an angle (4:30 o'clock position). I then added a 45 degree fitting and a third pipe to the end of the second pipe and pointed it straight down. The bottom of the last pipe is just above the front drive shaft front u-joint. At this point I have only friction fitted the parts together and used a cable tie to secure it to the bell housing by means of an added bolted on bracket. I cut the crankcase ventilation hose to the proper length and pushed it inside of the first pipe - just a friction fit.

I purposely did not glue anything because I wanted to see if it will work. I have accrued 2,500 miles (50% towing) since the installment and so far it is working well and the parts are holding together well, too.

I had a big oily mess on the left side of the engine on my truck at 200,000 miles, similar to what you described. But, I found that the crankcase breather was only a small part of that oily mess. The majority of the mess was caused by a leaking shaft seal on the vacuum pump and an oil leak where the vacuum pump mounts to the timing cover.

Of more concern with the crankcase breather location is that the radiator fan re-directs the oily mist to the area between the charge air cooler and the front of the radiator (a difficult place to inspect). This oily mist attaches dust and other airborne debris to the fins on the radiator. Eventually the reduced air flow will cause overheating.

Something else to keep in mind - if you have vacuum leaks, then the vacuum pump will pump a flow of air into the crankcase that is equal to the sum of all of the vacuum leaks. That flow of air will be added to the normal engine blow-by flow and the combined flow will exit out the crankcase breather. You must check all vacuum circuits for leaks and repair as necessary.

I will try to send some pictures of the re-located crankcase plumbing tomorrow.

- John
 
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Hopefully, here are some photos of the crankcase breather plumbing re-routed to the rear of the engine. The radiator photo is my radiator with 253,000 miles of operation before I re-routed the plumbing.
Crankcase Breather Re-route  (1).jpg
Crankcase Breather Re-route  (2).jpg
Crankcase Breather Re-route  (3).jpg
6-22-2016 Truck Radiator Blockage (1).jpg


Crankcase Breather Re-route  (1).jpg


Crankcase Breather Re-route  (2).jpg


Crankcase Breather Re-route  (3).jpg


6-22-2016 Truck Radiator Blockage (1).jpg
 
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If you live in a north climate with cold winters you have to be careful that the extend pipe/hose does not freeze up on the condensation coming out. If it does you will blow the seals in the engine. Snoking
 
The important thing is to make sure anything you run has at least a slight grade sloping away from the breather. No bellies or kinks in any hoses.
 
Thank you JR - another good point. In this case the rigid pipe alongside the valve cover accommodates the necessary slope you mentioned.

- John
 
Mine extends straight down to the front axle the end runs in between the dss bar and the front crossmember

So does mine. It extends maybe 8 or 10 inches down below that and slopes back. I didnt do it myself. It was done by the most prominent diesel shop in the pnw.
 
So does mine. It extends maybe 8 or 10 inches down below that and slopes back. I didnt do it myself. It was done by the most prominent diesel shop in the pnw.

I don't see why we have to make it so complicated ? With 255000 miles on it Doesent ever leave a drop of oil even when I park it for a long period of time
 
Thanks for the info.
Truck has 48k mi. Before bringing it to Ca it was running a little warm. The radiator was pretty dirty so I cleaned it the best I could in the truck using Dawn dish soap and garden hose. It was also 1/2 gal low on coolant. Temps were good towing from Missouri to Ca.
I ended up installing 6' of 5/8" heater hose from breather down along the frame terminating along the frame near the transfer case. I haven't driven it yet but looks like it will solve the problem.
Replacing a rear pinion seal now and with the Iowa rust it's been quite and adventure.
 
Thanks for the info.
Truck has 48k mi. Before bringing it to Ca it was running a little warm. The radiator was pretty dirty so I cleaned it the best I could in the truck using Dawn dish soap and garden hose. It was also 1/2 gal low on coolant. Temps were good towing from Missouri to Ca.
I ended up installing 6' of 5/8" heater hose from breather down along the frame terminating along the frame near the transfer case. I haven't driven it yet but looks like it will solve the problem.
Replacing a rear pinion seal now and with the Iowa rust it's been quite and adventure.

just do not drive it in freezing weather, the condensation from the crank case will freeze at the end of that hose and block it, you then blow seals around the engine as pressure builds up in the crank case. SNOKING
 
Isn't this the way it was vented on the 3rd gen?
on my 03 the hose was routed under the engine and I extended it further rearward to get rid of the smell.
I never had a problem with freezing.
 
I bought a radiator genie it has a wand for a garden hose and air hose If you spray as much as the radiator down with a cleaning solvent I used purple power then wash out with water then blow dry with the air it works really good to keep em clean .
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image.jpg
 
just do not drive it in freezing weather, the condensation from the crank case will freeze at the end of that hose and block it, you then blow seals around the engine as pressure builds up in the crank case. SNOKING

I have never ever had one freeze and We see 30 below sometimes 40 below and snow
 
If you live in a north climate with cold winters you have to be careful that the extend pipe/hose does not freeze up on the condensation coming out. If it does you will blow the seals in the engine. Snoking

I have seen an engine destroyed because of this. The guy extended the hose back past the transmission. The condensation froze up and it pumped all the oil out of the engine. Shouldn't leave your engine running unattended.

Fleetguard does make a proper solution for this. It does cost a lot more than a few pieces of PVC. https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/SB_LT32514.compressed_0.pdf

David
 
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